Catch waves: the best surfing beaches in the world PUERTO ESCONDIDO , OAXACA , MEXICO
Puerto Escondido, in Oaxaca’s coast, offers relaxation and adventure, the tranquillity of its thermal waters and the magic of its folkloric traditions.Puerto Escondido (English: “Hidden Port”) is a small port and tourist center in the municipality of San Pedro Mixtepec Distrito 22 in the Mexican state of Oaxaca. Prior to the 1930s, no real town existed. The bay had been used as a port intermittently to ship coffee, but there was no permanent settlement due to the lack of potable water. The name Puerto Escondido had roots in the legend of a woman who escaped her captors and hid here. The Nahuatl word for this area was Zicatela, meaning “place of large thorns.” Today, it refers to the area’s most famous beach.Puerto Escondido is one of the most important tourist attractions on the Oaxacan coast. It caters to a more downscale and eclectic clientele than neighboring Huatulco, mostly surfers, backpackers and Mexican families.The main attractions are the beaches, from Zicatela Beach, which hosts major surfing competitions, to beaches with gentle waves. West from the town is a large lagoon area popular for fishing and birdwatching.The main attractions of Puerto Escondido are its beaches, which have become internationally known. The area also is attractive to scuba divers because of the variety of fish to be found, as well as large oysters, lobsters and manta rays. Although the Pacific Coast of Mexico generally runs north-south, this section of the coast in Oaxaca runs east-west, Playa Zicatela is on the eastern end.Puerto Escondido became famous due to surfing competitions held at Zicatela Beach every year in November. The competition brings competitors from various countries. Nicknamed the “Mexican Pipeline” due to the similar power and shape of the Banzai Pipeline on the North Shore of Oahu, the wave that breaks on Zicatela Beach draws an international crowd of surfers, bodyboarders and their entourages. Mid to late summer is low season for tourists, but a prime time for waves and international tournaments. A number of international competitions such as the ESPN X Games, and the MexPipe Challenge have taken place. This beach is separated from the other beaches by a rocky outcropping called “El Morro” (the nose). The beach is fifty to one hundred metres wide and four kilometres long with large waves that reach up to sixteen metres high. Lifeguards are stationed at this high-risk beach as well as on the other beaches. About half of these are professional and the other half volunteers. Zicatela is still a surfers beach, with the strong undertow making the area unsuitable for swimming. The Zicatela Beach tourist district caters to surfers, including specials on surfboard rentals. The beach now has a promenade, landscaped with flowers and shrubs along the restaurants, many recently established.West of Zicatela over the El Moro rocky outcrop is Playa Marinero, which is the best beach for swimming as the surf and undertow are much less. There is some surf, but gentle enough for beginning surfers and bodyboarding.West from Playa Marinero is Playa Principal, or main beach, fronting of the town proper. A main difference that distinguishes this beach from Marinero is that boats and water taxis are anchored close to shore. Here, fishermen arrive at dawn to sell their catch to local restaurants and families. It is 500 metres long with fine, gray sand and low to moderate surf. This is the primary place to hire boats which take tourists to otherwise-inaccessible beaches, to see porpoises and marine turtles or for deep-sea fishing. This beach is also popular with Mexican families to picnic on and play soccer.West of the Playa Principal is the lighthouse with a stone walkway, Andador Escénico, below it. From the end of the walkway, and a bit farther west, are the twin beaches of Puerto Angelito and Manzanillo, between which is a small rock outcropping. These are on a sheltered cove, making it safe for swimming, with Manzanillo having slightly more surf. Angelito beach is full of family-owned small restaurants located in palapas (open-air thatched structures). Both these beaches have water that varies in color from emerald green to turquoise blue. Puerto Angelito tends to be crowded and frequented by busloads of visitors. Playa Manzanillo is quieter as there is no road access.West from these beaches is Playa Carrizalillo, which has white sand and cobalt blue water edged in light green. This 300 metre wide beach is on a small bay. There are no vehicular roads to this beach, and the footpath descends a steep slope on a recently installed rock stairway. It takes about fifteen minutes to walk to here from the town. A water taxi ride from Playa Principal is another option for accessing Carrizalillo. Waves are normally gentle, except for a zone that opens directly onto the ocean where waves are big enough for surfing. The difficult access means that the beach is not as crowded with walking vendors as the Puerto Angelito Beach. There are few restaurants and the area is generally cleaner. On the east and west sides of the bay are rocky outcroppings that serve as habitat for a wide variety of fish and coral, making it popular for snorkeling. Near Carrizalillo is the Rinconada, a former landing strip that is now lined with restaurants, salons, and shops. It also contains a lending library run by a local charity run by expatriates.The westernmost beach is Playa Bacocho with upscale beach clubs. It has fine, soft sand, palm trees, warm, blue-green water and a moderate surf although the far west part of the beach can have a strong undertow. It faces southwest, offering good sunset views. West from Bacocho are still undeveloped beaches.
Lic. Arturo Pembert Calvo, Oaxaca human rights ombudsman.
