Of Corn (Native and Transgenic)
Report from Oaxaca, Mexico
Early on a February morning, before our Casa de los Sabores cooking
class in Oaxaca, Mexico, we accompanied the chef/teacher Pilar
Cabrera to the local market to buy ingredients. Piled high in the
stands before us, were small green and purple tomatillos, sacks
of fresh and dried chiles (especially Chile Chilhuacle negro, used
in the area’s chichilo mole and mole negro), juicy green limons
(typically key lime fruit),and an extraordinary variety of herbs,
many of them local, like Pitiona a kind of wild sage.
class in Oaxaca, Mexico, we accompanied the chef/teacher Pilar
Cabrera to the local market to buy ingredients. Piled high in the
stands before us, were small green and purple tomatillos, sacks
of fresh and dried chiles (especially Chile Chilhuacle negro, used
in the area’s chichilo mole and mole negro), juicy green limons
(typically key lime fruit),and an extraordinary variety of herbs,
many of them local, like Pitiona a kind of wild sage.
Just before we left the market, Cabrera stopped to buy corn masa
from a woman who was kneading the dough. It is made from dried corn
that has been soaked in a solution of calcium, rinsed, and then
stone-ground and mixed with water until a paste forms. The corn
is ground by a molino who is located near the market.
from a woman who was kneading the dough. It is made from dried corn
that has been soaked in a solution of calcium, rinsed, and then
stone-ground and mixed with water until a paste forms. The corn
is ground by a molino who is located near the market.
The menu for the day was for Los Tamales and Cabrera had her
eight student chefs prepare Ensalada De Tomate Criollo, Jicama
Y Nopalitos, a delicious salad made from nopal cactus, purslane
leaves, grated jicama, tomatoes, ground chile piquin and lime juice,
followed by Tamales De Flores De Calabaza En Totomoxtle (squash
blossoms stuffed with corn masa and chopped chepil leaves steamed
in dried corn husks), and Tamales De Mole Negro En Joja De Platano
(chicken garlic and onion stuffed corn masa tamales steamed in fresh
banana leaves). All delicate and delicious.
eight student chefs prepare Ensalada De Tomate Criollo, Jicama
Y Nopalitos, a delicious salad made from nopal cactus, purslane
leaves, grated jicama, tomatoes, ground chile piquin and lime juice,
followed by Tamales De Flores De Calabaza En Totomoxtle (squash
blossoms stuffed with corn masa and chopped chepil leaves steamed
in dried corn husks), and Tamales De Mole Negro En Joja De Platano
(chicken garlic and onion stuffed corn masa tamales steamed in fresh
banana leaves). All delicate and delicious.
Corn, it was hard to escape during my one week visit to Oaxaca. In
the markets, in the cooking class, in the Jardin Etnobotanico de Oaxaca,
and in a temporary poster exhibit, Carteles for La Soberania Alimentaria
at IAGO, the Instituto de Artes Graficas de Oaxaca, the library and graphic
arts collection founded by artist Francisco Toledo.
the markets, in the cooking class, in the Jardin Etnobotanico de Oaxaca,
and in a temporary poster exhibit, Carteles for La Soberania Alimentaria
at IAGO, the Instituto de Artes Graficas de Oaxaca, the library and graphic
arts collection founded by artist Francisco Toledo.
During an excellent tour of the ethno-botanic garden, adjacent to the
Monastery of Santo Domingo, Dr. Alejandro de Avila Blomberg, director of the
garden, paused by an indigenous maize plant, explaining that in the wild corn
plants had no ears or cobs. Each seed was encased in a hard shell. Only
after years of breeding and selection by the local population did wild
maize, a plant that is believed to be 6,000 or 7,000 years old, become
transformed into corn, a plant yielding two or three ears with 400 seeds,
kernels in each ear.
Monastery of Santo Domingo, Dr. Alejandro de Avila Blomberg, director of the
garden, paused by an indigenous maize plant, explaining that in the wild corn
plants had no ears or cobs. Each seed was encased in a hard shell. Only
after years of breeding and selection by the local population did wild
maize, a plant that is believed to be 6,000 or 7,000 years old, become
transformed into corn, a plant yielding two or three ears with 400 seeds,
kernels in each ear.
The garden is intended as a place for education since Oaxaca is one of
the most diverse areas in the world. “There are more rock types here and
there is greater diversity of the eco systems, with a huge variety in the
types of vegetables, plants, animals, and mushrooms,” Blomberg said.
Squash seeds, over 10,000 years old (believed to be the earliest
cultivation in the entire western hemisphere) have been found in the
Guilá Naquitz Cave in Oaxaca, a site where several food crops
including teosinte, an ancestor of maize, were also cultivated.
the most diverse areas in the world. “There are more rock types here and
there is greater diversity of the eco systems, with a huge variety in the
types of vegetables, plants, animals, and mushrooms,” Blomberg said.
Squash seeds, over 10,000 years old (believed to be the earliest
cultivation in the entire western hemisphere) have been found in the
Guilá Naquitz Cave in Oaxaca, a site where several food crops
including teosinte, an ancestor of maize, were also cultivated.
Blomberg is passionate about maize. “Maize is not just food but
it is also used in bio fuel, textile fibers, cosmetics, medicines,
and cleaning fluids.” Just recently, Blomberg added, with a hint
of a smile, he heard of a “biodegradable cellphone made out of
maize.”
it is also used in bio fuel, textile fibers, cosmetics, medicines,
and cleaning fluids.” Just recently, Blomberg added, with a hint
of a smile, he heard of a “biodegradable cellphone made out of
maize.”
This year, Blomberg served as one of three jurors in IAGO’s
biennial poster competition on Transgenic Corn, Carteles for
La Soberania Alimentaria: Mexico Que pasa con neutron maiz?
According to Inari Resendiz, director at IAGO, some 641 posters
were received from around the world. The exhibit will be on view
until mid-March
biennial poster competition on Transgenic Corn, Carteles for
La Soberania Alimentaria: Mexico Que pasa con neutron maiz?
According to Inari Resendiz, director at IAGO, some 641 posters
were received from around the world. The exhibit will be on view
until mid-March
The theme, Resendiz said, was an important one to Oaxacans.
“Oaxaca is one of the richest places in corn diversity,” she said.
“We don’t need more diversity through transgenic corn.” To date,
there has been lots of action and several conferences on the subject,
many under the auspices of UCCS, the Union de Cientificos Comprometidos
con la Sociedad.
“Oaxaca is one of the richest places in corn diversity,” she said.
“We don’t need more diversity through transgenic corn.” To date,
there has been lots of action and several conferences on the subject,
many under the auspices of UCCS, the Union de Cientificos Comprometidos
con la Sociedad.
Two years ago, IAGO sponsored another poster competition focusing on
the 43 Mexican students who disappeared in 2014. The subject
stirred artists from all over the world, with over 1000 of them
submitting poster designs.
the 43 Mexican students who disappeared in 2014. The subject
stirred artists from all over the world, with over 1000 of them
submitting poster designs.
Reflecting on current global politics and the wall that President
Donald Trump wants to build along the US-Mexican border,
Resendiz added: “There’s already talk of our next theme, immigration.”
Donald Trump wants to build along the US-Mexican border,
Resendiz added: “There’s already talk of our next theme, immigration.”
SHAEL SHAPIRO
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