Saturday, April 13, 2013
Grapes and Grains: Mezcal
Grapes and Grains: Mezcal
G&G Alipus
Editor’s Note: We continue our series exploring new wines, liqueurs, spirits and beers. The purpose is to educate and inspire those who choose to explore the variety of offerings in Emporia’s stores. We hope you will enjoy the journey.
Last week we launched into beverages fermented from the agave plant, specifically tequila. Today we have the ‘mother’ of tequila, mezcal. All tequilas are mezcals, but not all mezcals are tequilas due to the fact tequila uses exclusively 100 percent agave tequiliana weber.
The most lauded mezcal comes from the Mexican state of Oaxaca, although it can be produced anywhere agave will grow. Eight varieties of agave are approved for mezcal production, but the chief variety used is the espadin agave (agave angustifolia Haw).
The word mezcal comes from the prehispanic Nahuatl word Metl or Mexcalmetl, and it means agave. In Oaxaca, agave is called is maguey (muh-GAY). Nearly 25 percent of the total contemporary indigenous (non-hispanic) population of Mexico lives in the state of Oaxaca.
The capital city of Oaxaca is in the center of three great valleys, at an altitude of 6,500 feet. There are mountains, plains, valleys, tropical jungles and the Pacific Ocean all creating many differing growing zones for many varieties of maguey. Soil, moisture, temperature and sunshine all affect the taste of the agave, just as it does a vineyard.
Mezcal is clear, sometimes with a light tint.
“All good mezcals have no worm,” states Adam Clary of Standard Beverage. The Del Maguey distillery agrees: “The clichéd notion of gusanos (worms) in the bottle has no place in a serious conversation about true mezcal.”
It is to be sipped, not “shot.” The practice of shooting a drink comes from when distillation created an intense alcohol burn and not altogether pleasing taste. It was best to just get it past the tongue as quickly as possible and boost the alcoholic effects. Imbibers who want to shoot can save a great deal of money by buying the least expensive tequila on the shelf, or the mezcal with the worm in it. We are not they.
Most great mezcals are artisanal, small-batch and unique to their specific village, as opposed event to region. Many are made the same way they have been for centuries.
According to connoisseurs, mezcal’s general characteristics include roasted green bell pepper, earth, chile pepper and an “unmistakable exotic essence” from the unusual sweetness of the agave itself. Mezcals are usually more earthy than Tequila, with dusty, peppery, leafy and sometimes pine notes.
This earthiness comes from baking the pina in underground ovens heated with wood charcoal. They are then crushed (traditionally with a stone wheel drawn around a circular trough by a mule) and shredded to extract the sweet juice, called aguamiel (honey water).
Many mezcals are open fermented in pie vats to obtain wild yeasts for fermentation.
* * *
Del Maguey Single Village Mezcal was founded in 1995 by internationally renowned artist Ron Cooper (Whitney, Guggenheim, LACMA), who felt the quality of the beverage and the ability to provide sustainable industry for each indigenous village was of vital importance. The website states, “Through deep cultural relationships with Zapotec Mexican Indian producers in the remote villages of Oaxaca, Mexico, Del Maguey harnesses ancient, original organic processes that combined with varying micro-climates and terroir give each creation its unique, rich, sweet and smoky character. Every product in our collection is made by individual family palenqueros (producers) in old-style villages. We are the first producer to credit each product after the village where our liquid is made.”
Another section states: “The art of distillation is in no place more evident than in the palenques (stills) of Oaxaca, where indigenous culture is being preserved, pre-organic practices are being protected and fair trade micro-economies are being created — one village at a time.
“Using strictly natural, rustic and pure processes over 500 years old, the village palenquero (maker) captures the true body and spirit of mezcal with only two ingredients: the heart of the maguey (agave), and 10 percent pure water added only to the fermentation.”
The Tequila: Del Maguey Crema de Mezcal, $35.49.
The distiller says:
“Crema de Mezcal: For Women Only… and… A Few Strong Men.”
Crema de Mezcal is a combination of 10 percent Miel de Maguey (unfermented syrup of the roast agave) and 90 percent Mezcal San Luis del Rio — double distilled from 100 percent mature agave Espadin, produced the original, natural 400-year-old, hand-crafted way.
Crema de Mezcal has a nose of roast maguey, with vanilla and pear, a creamy almond, apple, coffee, pineapple palate and a long sweet smoky orange finish.
We have created in Crema a totally original and natural, single-village-produced libation. Sip this delicious beverage before, during and after meals. Make a great margarita with nothing other than fresh lime juice. Drizzle it over any fruit or pastry for desert.
The critics say:
Wine and Spirit Magazines: “Best new spirit of 2012.”
“This is one of the great connoisseur’s drinks of the world, in any category. Produced from wild agaves harvested at high altitude, it is a seductively dislocating, subtly knit but extreme stream of sensory information.” Richard Nalley, Forbes
The Gazette says:
The smell is completely different from tequila. It’s closer to Scotch: peaty, dark. It is complex in flavor, with an initial sweetness, hints of tropical fruits and finishing (in a good way) with earth.
* * *
Alipus Mezcal offerings are 100 percent agave produced in remote pueblos in Oaxaca’s noted Mezcal region, via craft production from artisanal family distilleries. Agaves are wood-roasted in palenques (conical below-ground ovens), with juice extraction by slow stone-milling (tahona). Fermentation takes place with native yeasts in open wooden vats (some are pine, some cypress, some oak), and is completed by double-distillation in small wood-fired copper pot stills.
Its current offerings are the San Baltazar Guelavila, San Andres, San Juan del Rio and an annual Edicion Especial.
The Tequila: Alipus Mezcal Joven San Baltazar Guélavila, $39.99
The distiller says:
The San Baltazar is fermented in pine vats. The taste is delicate and fruity, slightly sweet.
The critics say:
“Elegant, delicate. The higher proof brings out some volatile alcohol nuances, but everything is fairly synchronized, so nothing dominates. I would definitely get more of this if I could, simply because the smoke doesn’t stamp out a lot of the lovely peculiarities of the distillate straight from the still. Remarkably smooth for its strength.” — blueagavforum.com.
The Gazette says:
There is a light pink color, and the aroma is oddly like glue. It has a strong, earthy flavor, gentle but dark (one critic described it as mud), there is resin, smoke and a light sweetness.
Expediciones Sierra Norte, Pueblos Mancomunados OAXACA
Welcome
Pooled Peoples of the Sierra Norte de Oaxaca will open their doors for Marvel with our network of more than 100 miles of trails that give life to 36 rural routes especially designed for nature lovers who want to hike, mountain bike and horseback riding.
Visit us and enjoy the warmth and culture of our communities Zapotec, the unique natural beauty of the Sierra Norte and knows the process of responsible use of natural resources and conservation of forests.
Welcome to Northern Sierra Expeditions, a route without limits!
In Oaxaca, a community unchanged 12 April 2013
12 April 2013
In Oaxaca, a community unchanged
In Mexico Hiking
http://www.bbc.com/travel/feature/20130411-in-oaxaca-a-community-unchanged/1
In the isolated pine- and oak-filled mountains about 60km northwest of Oaxaca City are eight small villages, collectively called Los Pueblos Mancomunados. Most of the inhabitants are Zapotecan and the villages operate under a unique self-ruling co-operative system, where rural life has remained virtually unchanged for hundreds of years.
The land surrounding the villages is also rich in every sense of the word. The forests are abundant with medicinal plants and mushrooms, and the fields produce maize, squash, tomatoes, beans, watercress and potatoes, as well as a large range of fruit. Most crops in the region are sown and harvested by hand, including the small plots that dot the gravity-challenging mountain sides, and farm machinery is a rare sight, with villagers using donkeys, oxen and bulls to plough the crops. Close to the village of Amatlan, a large reserve of gold and silver still sits in a now unused mine. Ghost-like mounds of powder-like gold can be seen, forever waiting for transportation to the northern Mexican city of San Luis Potosi for refinement.
Unlike many other small villages in Mexico, Los Pueblos Mancomunados is run by a committee that, in 1998, set up an ecotourism program called Expediciones Sierra Norteto showcase and protect six of the villages’ beautiful scenery and nearly forgotten way of life. Today, visitors can independently explore the forested trails that connect the villages of Latuvi, La Neveria, Benito Juarez, Cuajimoloyas, Llano Grande and Amatlan (by foot, bike or horse) – but it is a richer experience to travel with anExpediciones Sierra Norte guide. Each member of the community must do a year of service in the programme, acting as a guide or helping to maintain the traditionally-built adobe cabins where visitors stay. All profits are equally split among the village families, which helps alleviate forced emigration in search of work.
One of the main trails, El Camino – part of a longer trail that went from the Gulf of Mexico through to the Pacific Ocean – dates back to pre-Hispanic times, when the villagers had to walk for at least a day to reach the market in Oaxaca City. Once there, they bartered their maize, vegetables, crafts and fruit for produce not available at home. Locals still make that trip today for the same reasons – but today they travel by bus or truck
Guided treks can start at any of the six villages and vary from a single day excursion to four days or more depending on fitness level and time available. On the longer treks between villages – the forests filled with seasonal displays of colourful bromeliad flowers and Spanish moss – nights are spent in the adobe cabins, with hot water, a roaring log fire and an authentic Oaxacan meal upon arrival. Dishes might include sopa de calabaza,a clear broth with chunks of squash and fresh garlic; ortortillas con amarillo de hongos, corn tortillas filled with mushrooms in a red sauce made from maize, tomatoes and fresh chillies.
Camping is another option, albeit a chilly one with many of the villages above 2,700m, but the payoff is stunning sunrises and a chance to see mountain ranges span for kilometres, including the Orizaba volcano peak in the neighbouring state of Veracruz – Mexico’s tallest mountain at 5,636m.
The villagers’ traditional cuisine is incredible, thanks in no small part to their local source of organic food. If a crop or plant is having a bad season and needs pesticide, the community will stop growing it and go without. This strict approach leads to an abundance of carefully-grown ingredients that combine to produce epicurean highlights such as atole, a traditional hot drink made from maize and sugar cane, with a rojo (red) version made for weddings and festivals by adding cinnamon and cacao; amarillo con hongos, mushrooms served with a red sauce made from maize, tomatoes and fresh chillis; and truchas (trout), which are native to the mountain rivers. The villagers have established a system of breeding trout via natural water pools, fed by the rivers and streams.
n addition to the beautiful scenery, great hiking and superb food, visitors come for the annual mushroom festival, La Feria Regional del hongos silvestres, in Cuajimoloyas, which takes place over a weekend either at the end of July or early August, depending on the rains and how the mushroom crop is doing. Of the 3,500 mushroom species in the world, 2,000 of them have been found in the forests around the village. On the Saturday of the festival local guides lead groups into the forest to identify each species, with an award for the group that finds the most; in 2012, 292 species were found. On the Sunday, the collected mushrooms are on display (groups can only pick one of each species to insure their long-term survival) and local experts give talks on fungi varieties. The festival ends with a display of traditional folk dances from Oaxaca’s most famous annual festival, Guelaguetza, which typically takes place in July. Other activities include having a temascal, a pre-Hispanic wood-fired steam bath, which can be a good option at the end of a long hike.
In a unique balance, the villages have found a way to both expose and protect their way of life, sharing profits equally while avoiding mass commercialisation. In giving travellers an opportunity to witness such a traditional way of life up close, the community is ensuring that this very special place will be around for generations, and tourists, to come.
Practicalities
Visitors can book a trip through the Expediciones Sierra Norte website or at their office in Oaxaca City and take a local bus to any of the villages. Expediciones Sierra Norte can also help organise tours of the old mine in Amatlan, including the abandoned processing plant, the living quarters of the workers and a small part of the original tunnels.
Visitors can book a trip through the Expediciones Sierra Norte website or at their office in Oaxaca City and take a local bus to any of the villages. Expediciones Sierra Norte can also help organise tours of the old mine in Amatlan, including the abandoned processing plant, the living quarters of the workers and a small part of the original tunnels.
Kabbalah Restaurante Bar * hOY 22 hrs * Live Music / Musica en Vivo con " lOs Santos Inocentes " Te esperamos # THE BEST MUSIC IN TOWN
* hOY 22 hrs *
Live Music / Musica en Vivo
con " lOs Santos Inocentes "
Te esperamos
# THE BEST MUSIC IN TOWN . — with Peke-One Pelaez, Jesus Mauricio Amezcua Bracamontes, Omar Castellanos, Belén Pietranera, Mike Lopes, Vlasta Cullen-Wellock, Jesus Chicharron Gonzalez, Maia Facen, Lorena Paola, Diego Armando Ramirez Ramirez,Todo Puerto Escondido and Gabriel Parra Dicillo.
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