Saturday, October 20, 2012
Día de Muertos (Day Of The Dead): how to celebrate the dead in Mexico
Sep 6, 2012 3:31:42 AM
Día de Muertos (Day Of The Dead): how to celebrate the dead in Mexico
Location: Oaxaca, Mexico
Dates: 1–2 November
Level of participation: 3 – everyone’s invited to the party, even the dead
Mexico’s Carnivalesque remembrance of departed souls is one of the world’s most universally familiar festivals. Its papier-mâché skeletons and candy skulls are as recognisable as the jack-o’-lanterns at Halloween. Westerners find the Latino rave from beyond the grave, with its upbeat treatment of immortality, both fascinating and confronting.
In anticipation of the gloriously grisly event, stores and markets fill with miniature coffins, skulls and skeletons made of chocolate, marzipan, paper, cardboard or clay. Many of them are engaged in highly un-skeletonlike activities such as riding bicycles, playing music or getting married.
In a belief system inherited from the Aztecs, Mexicans believe their dead are lurking in Mictlan, a kind of spiritual waiting room, and they can return to their homes at this time of year. Families thus begin preparations to help the spirits find their way home and to make them welcome, starting with an arch made of bright-yellow marigolds – a symbolic doorway from the underworld. An altar is erected and piled high with offerings to the invisible visitors: flowers, ribbons, coloured candles, tamales (steam-cooked cornmeal dough), fruit and corn. Two important additions are a container of water, because the spirits arrive thirsty after their journey, and pan de muertos (bread of the dead). The loaf is made with egg yolks, fruits and tequila or mezcal, and is adorned with, or shaped as, a symbol of death.
The first day, Día de Angelitos (Day of the Little Angels), is dedicated to dead children, and the toys they once loved are placed on the altar.
The rituals are particularly important if the household has suffered a bereavement in the previous year. Women will spend all day cooking the favourite food of the dead relative for the customary feast, in which friends and family gather to toast the ghostly visitors.
The event climaxes with a visit to the cemetery. There might be a funfair en route, with neon-lit rides and stands selling crucifix waffles and cooked cactus snacks. Families will devote a day to cleaning the graves, decorating them with candles and flores del muerto (flowers of the dead), having picnics and dancing to mariachi bands. By now, the streets are full of papier-mâché skeletons, which are life-size but could never pass for the real thing in their dresses, jewellery, flowery boas and hats. A cigarette dangles jauntily from a white hand, a hoop earring hangs against a bare jawbone.
Again, such apparitions can be traced back to Aztec lore. The death god, Mictlantecutli, is often depicted with a skull-like face in pre-Hispanic artefacts. The skeletal street urchins became a major fixture in the late 19th century, when the great engraver José Guadalupe Posada used the occasion to satirise society and explore the theme of death as the ultimate leveller.
In his famous calaveras, skeletal figures cheerfully engage in everyday life, working, dancing, courting, drinking and riding horses into battle. One of his most enduring characters is La Calavera Catrina, a female skeleton in an elaborate low-cut dress and flamboyant flower-covered hat, suggestively revealing a bony leg and an ample bust that is all ribs and no cleavage.
The event is, like many aspects of post-colonial Mexico, a melange of influences. Its origins stretch back to the Aztec month of Miccailhuitontli, which was dedicated to deathly Mictlantecutli’s equally scary wife, Mictecacihuat. It originally fell around August, but the Christian conquistadors, hoping to assimilate the heathen holiday through their favoured tactic of culturalmestizaje (mixing), moved it to the day after All Saints’ Day.
Celebrations take place all over the country, but their heartland is southern Mexico, where indigenous culture is strongest. Mixquic, southeast of Mexico City, is known as ‘City of the Dead’ for its procession that calls at shrines to the deceased. A popular location is Oaxaca, where there are graveyard tours and a ‘best altar’ competition.
If you do find yourself in the north, head to Guanajuato, where salesmen dole out mummy candies outside the gruesome Museo de las Momias (Museum of Mummies). On Janitzio Island, Lake Pátzcuaro, the arrival of flower-covered, candlelit canoes begins a night-long vigil-come-party.
Although you have to work hard to reach small villages and organise accommodation there, it’s worth getting out of the main towns and cities to catch more traditional festivities.
Local attractions: Situated in rugged countryside, Oaxaca is a Spanish-built city of narrow streets.
More info: www.visitmexico.com
See a list of other festivals in November here.
Read more: http://www.lonelyplanet.com/mexico/oaxaca-state/oaxaca/travel-tips-and-articles/77490#ixzz29uPgHJWv
Oaxaca coast - P. Escondido and San Agustinillo (a quick trip report)
Oaxaca coast - P. Escondido and San Agustinillo (a quick trip ...
Howdy,I posted a few days ago on our week in Mex City so will follow up with a week on the Oaxaca coast (split Puerto Escondido and San Agustinillo) for those ...
www.lonelyplanet.com/
I posted a few days ago on our week in Mex City so will follow up with a week on the Oaxacacoast (split Puerto Escondido and San Agustinillo) for those who are interested.
We didnt plan to hit Oaxacas coast until much later in our trip but the lure of some sunshine and doing nothing for a while was pretty overwhelming. That and the fact that we managed to get a flight from MEX-PXM for USD 47 each for the following day. Flight with vivaaerobus was easy and quick. Landed at Puerto Escondido at about 11am. When we grabbed our bags, they had both been rummaged through by someone in security. A few coins i had left in my bag (about 5 pounds sterling) and some caribiner clips were taken... mildly annoying but not trip-ruining... lesson: dont leave ANYTHING in checked luggage except shitty pants.
Collectivo taxi from PXM airport to anywhere in P.E (including Zicatela beach) was about 35 pesos pp I think. We jumped out at del Casa de Dan which unfortunately was booked solid, but they let us leave our bags there and we walked up the beach and checked a few places. Most rooms on Playa Zicatela seemed to be in the 4-600 range.
Opted for Hotel Ines in the end and got a decent room with AC for 600 pn. They have a nice pool area with bar/food service which is not excessively priced. The room was great also - spotlessly clean and huge bed.
We pretty much spent 3 days lounging around by their pool, drinking cerveza victoria and eating guac. On day 2 we took a surf lesson (350 pp) with 2 guys who drove us to the small sheltered cove just north of the town. It was good fun but tiring to us noobs. Surfing it seems is not easy at all. 350 seemed fairly reasonable for the 2 hour lesson with all the gear.
Food wise the best meals were had at Hotel Ines (unimaginative, i know) but to be honest the whole beach seemed half open with barely any people around. - most restaurants seemed shut. We had a fairly average meal of chicken and stir fry veg at el Cafecito (ok, nothing more) and a less than average pizza at a place a few doors away from there (cant recall name) Finding something cheap and 'geniune' around there within easy walking distance at night was not easy - mostly euro tourist food, but the food at Ines was great, so we did not look hard; good antojitos, GREAT steak and fish. All in all a very good place.
After 3 days we were bored of looking at but not being able to swim in the sea (too dangerous, apparently), so decided to head further south to San Agustinillo (sp?)
Getting there from PE was easy, from ADO bus station we got Pochutla bound servicio sur bus to San Antonio ($32) and then hopped in a taxi to San Agustinillo ($25) - there were loads waiting. No hassle at all.
I dunno what we were expecting, but if PE was quiet, San Augustinillo was DEAD. Not a bad thing at all, just an observation... walked up the beach and found a bargain at $250 for a room in a turquoise painted place on the western end of the beach (by the headland) ... think it was called something el Elephant.. what a place that is anyway. Rooms very basic, but they have a shaded roof terrace with kitchen, hammocks, loungers... perfect breeze, great views... awesome!
As with PE about 30% of the places on the beach seemed shut for the season (couldnt understand why noone was there... the weather was perfect) so after getting bored of eating the same fish fillets (although delicious) we bought and cooked some food ourselves in the kitchen of el elephant.
One night we had GREAT pizza at the place on the eastern end of the beach. Next to Punto Placer cabanas. Really good. Go there.
Other than that we spent most of the time bobbing up and down in the waves, reading, drinking beer and lounging. (What a drag!)
On day 3 we took a boat trip ($180 pp) out to see some turtles (loads of them), dolphins, do a bit of fishing and some snorkeling. The fishing was good, the dude on the boat must have caught about 6-7 of those large tuna-like fish (i assume they are tuna, the flesh is very dark) - it was much better than expected - i didnt think we would see dolphins or turtles but we saw dozens. really impressive. the snorkeling wasnt great because the viz was quite poor, but it was fun to get in the water nonetheless. when we got back to the beach the dude from the boat gave us a couple of the fish, which were clumsily gutted, chopped and cooked in the elephants kitchen. would recommend.
also hired surfboards at $50 ph which was good fun.
There isnt much in the way of places to buy supplies (suncream etc) in S.A so thats something to note... we walked over to Manzute to stock up but even that is limited.
All in all another good fun week. Now in Oaxaca city about to start 2 weeks of spanish school and homestay.
Peace and love amigos.
CHRIS
Howdy,I posted a few days ago on our week in Mex City so will follow up with a week on the Oaxaca coast (split Puerto Escondido and San Agustinillo) for those ...
www.lonelyplanet.com/
Oaxaca coast - P. Escondido and San Agustinillo (a quick trip report)
Howdy,I posted a few days ago on our week in Mex City so will follow up with a week on the Oaxacacoast (split Puerto Escondido and San Agustinillo) for those who are interested.
We didnt plan to hit Oaxacas coast until much later in our trip but the lure of some sunshine and doing nothing for a while was pretty overwhelming. That and the fact that we managed to get a flight from MEX-PXM for USD 47 each for the following day. Flight with vivaaerobus was easy and quick. Landed at Puerto Escondido at about 11am. When we grabbed our bags, they had both been rummaged through by someone in security. A few coins i had left in my bag (about 5 pounds sterling) and some caribiner clips were taken... mildly annoying but not trip-ruining... lesson: dont leave ANYTHING in checked luggage except shitty pants.
Collectivo taxi from PXM airport to anywhere in P.E (including Zicatela beach) was about 35 pesos pp I think. We jumped out at del Casa de Dan which unfortunately was booked solid, but they let us leave our bags there and we walked up the beach and checked a few places. Most rooms on Playa Zicatela seemed to be in the 4-600 range.
Opted for Hotel Ines in the end and got a decent room with AC for 600 pn. They have a nice pool area with bar/food service which is not excessively priced. The room was great also - spotlessly clean and huge bed.
We pretty much spent 3 days lounging around by their pool, drinking cerveza victoria and eating guac. On day 2 we took a surf lesson (350 pp) with 2 guys who drove us to the small sheltered cove just north of the town. It was good fun but tiring to us noobs. Surfing it seems is not easy at all. 350 seemed fairly reasonable for the 2 hour lesson with all the gear.
Food wise the best meals were had at Hotel Ines (unimaginative, i know) but to be honest the whole beach seemed half open with barely any people around. - most restaurants seemed shut. We had a fairly average meal of chicken and stir fry veg at el Cafecito (ok, nothing more) and a less than average pizza at a place a few doors away from there (cant recall name) Finding something cheap and 'geniune' around there within easy walking distance at night was not easy - mostly euro tourist food, but the food at Ines was great, so we did not look hard; good antojitos, GREAT steak and fish. All in all a very good place.
After 3 days we were bored of looking at but not being able to swim in the sea (too dangerous, apparently), so decided to head further south to San Agustinillo (sp?)
Getting there from PE was easy, from ADO bus station we got Pochutla bound servicio sur bus to San Antonio ($32) and then hopped in a taxi to San Agustinillo ($25) - there were loads waiting. No hassle at all.
I dunno what we were expecting, but if PE was quiet, San Augustinillo was DEAD. Not a bad thing at all, just an observation... walked up the beach and found a bargain at $250 for a room in a turquoise painted place on the western end of the beach (by the headland) ... think it was called something el Elephant.. what a place that is anyway. Rooms very basic, but they have a shaded roof terrace with kitchen, hammocks, loungers... perfect breeze, great views... awesome!
As with PE about 30% of the places on the beach seemed shut for the season (couldnt understand why noone was there... the weather was perfect) so after getting bored of eating the same fish fillets (although delicious) we bought and cooked some food ourselves in the kitchen of el elephant.
One night we had GREAT pizza at the place on the eastern end of the beach. Next to Punto Placer cabanas. Really good. Go there.
Other than that we spent most of the time bobbing up and down in the waves, reading, drinking beer and lounging. (What a drag!)
On day 3 we took a boat trip ($180 pp) out to see some turtles (loads of them), dolphins, do a bit of fishing and some snorkeling. The fishing was good, the dude on the boat must have caught about 6-7 of those large tuna-like fish (i assume they are tuna, the flesh is very dark) - it was much better than expected - i didnt think we would see dolphins or turtles but we saw dozens. really impressive. the snorkeling wasnt great because the viz was quite poor, but it was fun to get in the water nonetheless. when we got back to the beach the dude from the boat gave us a couple of the fish, which were clumsily gutted, chopped and cooked in the elephants kitchen. would recommend.
also hired surfboards at $50 ph which was good fun.
There isnt much in the way of places to buy supplies (suncream etc) in S.A so thats something to note... we walked over to Manzute to stock up but even that is limited.
All in all another good fun week. Now in Oaxaca city about to start 2 weeks of spanish school and homestay.
Peace and love amigos.
CHRIS
National Mezcal Day: Q & A With Raul Yrastorza of Las Perlas
National Mezcal Day: Q & A With Raul Yrastorza of Las Perlas
Raul Yrastorza sips on a cocktail at Las Perlas in Downtown L.A. (Photo via dylanjeniphotography on Flickr)
This Sunday is National Mezcal Day, so in preparation LAist decided to have a chat with one of our city's most enthusiastic supporters of agave-based spirits, Raul Yrastorza. Yrastorza curates the program at Las Perlas in Downtown LA, where well-crafted cocktails and mezcal flights reign supreme. But even though Yrastorza is obsessed with mezcal, he wasn't even aware of the impending holiday until it was announced by "Red Solo Cup"-loving Toby Keith.
"I can get behind anything that celebrates mezcal," he jokes. "Even if it's a knucklehead who's creating it."
We talked to Yrastorza about the spirit's reflection of terroir, where to find the best in the city, and just what it is that makes mezcal so special.
How has the popularity and recognition of mezcal changed here in L.A. in the past few years? Would you say more cocktailians are interested in agave-based spirits?
Fortunately and unfortunately for mezcal, it's had a cult following for the 16 years in Los Angeles. It started way back when I helped create the program at El Carmen on 3rd and Sweetzer. We brought in mezcal because we were an agave-based bar. Back then, when you poured the real mezcal to people, they were like, "Oh my god. This is the second coming for agave!" Now, thanks to the craft cocktail movement, most people know what mezcal is.
Fortunately and unfortunately for mezcal, it's had a cult following for the 16 years in Los Angeles. It started way back when I helped create the program at El Carmen on 3rd and Sweetzer. We brought in mezcal because we were an agave-based bar. Back then, when you poured the real mezcal to people, they were like, "Oh my god. This is the second coming for agave!" Now, thanks to the craft cocktail movement, most people know what mezcal is.
Why is it that you love using mezcal as a bartender? What makes it so distinct?
Mezcal is one of those spirits that you can't hide in a cocktail. Bartenders and mixologists really crave spirits that have really strong flavors. When you're mixing with citrus or amaros or tinctures and bitters and syrups, you don't lose it like you would lose vodka or some gins out there.
Mezcal is one of those spirits that you can't hide in a cocktail. Bartenders and mixologists really crave spirits that have really strong flavors. When you're mixing with citrus or amaros or tinctures and bitters and syrups, you don't lose it like you would lose vodka or some gins out there.
What makes mezcal so special in terms of its flavor profile? There really is nothing else like it.
The flavor of roasted agave and the terroir of Oaxaca is like a spice cabinet within a spirit. It transcends all of the things that you can mix with it. It's amazing how a mezcal can be blended with an Italian amaro and bitters made in Silver Lake, and then you can have three corners of the world in one cocktail, and it all works ... You also have to remember that agave is a stimulant. There's a different high you get from drinking agave-based spirits.
What makes it different from tequila?
All tequila is mezcal, but not all mezcal is tequila. Anything agave-based distilled outside of the Tequila region is called mezcal.
All tequila is mezcal, but not all mezcal is tequila. Anything agave-based distilled outside of the Tequila region is called mezcal.
How can people who are still curious about mezcals learn more?
The great thing about Las Perlas is that there are introductory-level cocktails, but you can also do mezcal flights that change anywhere from one to three times per week. In terms of other spots around town, there's always Rivera. Julian [Cox] has done a great job over there. We bounce stuff off each other all the time. Bricia [Lopez, of Guelaguetza] is such an important part of what's happening with mezcal, of course, because she's so passionate about it. She's helping bridge the relationship between the hipsters and the natives.
The great thing about Las Perlas is that there are introductory-level cocktails, but you can also do mezcal flights that change anywhere from one to three times per week. In terms of other spots around town, there's always Rivera. Julian [Cox] has done a great job over there. We bounce stuff off each other all the time. Bricia [Lopez, of Guelaguetza] is such an important part of what's happening with mezcal, of course, because she's so passionate about it. She's helping bridge the relationship between the hipsters and the natives.
How will you be celebrating National Mezcal Day?
I think I celebrate National Mezcal Day day 6-7 nights a week. After this phone call we'll probably be putting together some sort of menu that will represent mezcal from all sorts of different regions and altitudes. That's the most important thing that people need to understand: Mezcal doesn't come from one central area. It can come from the middle of nowhere in a microclimate, or it can come from the heart of Oaxaca. Terrior is really reflected in the product, just like it is in a fine wine.
I think I celebrate National Mezcal Day day 6-7 nights a week. After this phone call we'll probably be putting together some sort of menu that will represent mezcal from all sorts of different regions and altitudes. That's the most important thing that people need to understand: Mezcal doesn't come from one central area. It can come from the middle of nowhere in a microclimate, or it can come from the heart of Oaxaca. Terrior is really reflected in the product, just like it is in a fine wine.
We'll consider ourselves schooled. Salud!
Contact the author of this article or email tips@laist.com with further questions, comments or tips.
500px / Photo "Mazunte, Mexico" by Gil Van Hamme Mazunte, Mexico. Fresh · Photograph Mazunte, Mexico by Gil Van Hamme on 500px. Hey, this photo is © Gil Van Hamme · I want to buy this photo! 500px.com/photo/16096997
500px / Photo "Mazunte, Mexico" by Gil Van Hamme
Mazunte, Mexico. Fresh · Photograph Mazunte, Mexico by Gil Van Hamme on 500px. Hey, this photo is © Gil Van Hamme · I want to buy this photo!
500px.com/photo/16096997
Mazunte, Mexico. Fresh · Photograph Mazunte, Mexico by Gil Van Hamme on 500px. Hey, this photo is © Gil Van Hamme · I want to buy this photo!
500px.com/photo/16096997
05 Apr 12, 22:00h · TRIPOLITE · Playa Zipolite Pochutla OAXACA ... Town: Playa Zipolite Pochutla OAXACA DJs : LINE UP, , Juevs 05-04, 22:00 Delik , 00:00 Lestek, 02:00 Pedro Mozkatt, 04:00 SimpleProj... goabase: world wide ... www.goabase.net/65598
Town: Playa Zipolite Pochutla OAXACA DJs : LINE UP, , Juevs 05-04, 22:00 Delik , 00:00 Lestek, 02:00 Pedro Mozkatt, 04:00 SimpleProj... goabase: world wide ...
www.goabase.net/65598
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