Living it up on Day of the Dead
Mass celebration of the underworld in Oaxaca has elements of Halloween, a funeral and Mardi Gras
BY TARA LOWRY, THE PROVINCE OCTOBER 30, 2012
Whether they are made out of candy, clay, papier mache or wood, Mexican calaveras have just as much personality as their flesh-and-blood counterparts.
Like a burlesque combination of Halloween, a funeral and Mardi Gras, Day of the Dead in Mexico is an experience that should be on anybody’s ‘what to do before you die’ list (or after, for that matter).
The customs of Day of the Dead are a mix of both pagan and Catholic beliefs. The origins date back into the time of the Aztecs when a month-long celebration was held in honour of Mictecacihuatl, queen of the Netherworld. After the Spanish conquest and introduction of Catholicism, the dates and length of the festivities changed to coincide with the Catholic holidays of All Saint’s Day on Nov. 1 and All Soul’s Day on the 2nd.
In Oaxaca, the whispers of the dead start to be heard weeks before the actual holiday. Audacious skeletons and skulls of all shapes and sizes peek and gawk around every corner. Whether they are made out of candy, clay, papier maché or wood, Mexican ‘calaveras’ have just as much personality as their flesh-and-blood counterparts and are known worldwide for their gaudy humoristic style. The calaveras are made in a variety of scenarios to reflect the hobbies and passions of the defunct. Intricately made tiny smiling skeletons are fishing, taking photos, getting married, dancing and painting. There are doctors, mariachis, bakers and even some mermaids and prostitutes. The most famous of all is La Catrina (The Elegant Skull). Originally a 1910 etching print by Jose Guadalupe Posada, she has since become the most iconic image of Day of the Dead and has had songs, poems, paintings and sculptures dedicated to her.
In the last week of October, it is common to come across Diablos roaming the streets, cracking their whips and bullying the crowds, as part of a comparsa or procession. They usually come accompanied with beautifully dressed Catrinas, ghosts and giant papier maché dolls that dance down the cobbled streets and throw candy. Throngs of people follow the parade of demons until a mass group of revellers accumulate in the zocalo (main square), where shots of mescal (like Tequila) are handed out and brass bands play upbeat melodies.
In preparation for the visitors from the underworld, the markets overflow with flowers, food and decorations. Orange, yellow and deep crimson Marigolds (known in Mexico as the flowers of death) lay in huge bundles waiting to be taken to the cemeteries to adorn grave sites and altars. The smell of freshly made mole negro and chocolate mix with the salty tang of fried and chillied grasshoppers known as chapulines. Sugar skulls, tamarind candy and pineapple tamales will be offered to spirits with a sweet tooth. Tissue paper cut-outs or papel picado hang in colourful ghoulish scenes. They are used to decorate the city as a gesture to make the un-living feel welcome.
Tombs are turned into altars in the cemeteries or panteones. They are meticulously decorated with flower petals, a special bread (pan de muerto: bread of the dead), and all of the food, drink, possessions and vices that the loved one who has passed on enjoyed the most. It is believed that these things will coax the spirits into passing over and joining in on the festivities.
On the eve of Nov. 1, relatives and loved ones of the tiniest of spirits gather in the various cemeteries and homes of Oaxaca, awaiting the arrival of the angelitos. The souls of the children are believed to leave around the same time as they arrived the next day, cueing the appearance of the adult spirits. This is when the party really starts.
Twelve-piece bands with dented tubas and ancient accordions belt out riotous tunes. Mourners and celebrators dance around gravestones and drink hot chocolate laced heavily with mescal. In the dark cemetery, lit only by a sea of candles, the mix of emotion is overwhelming. Joy and grief mingle in the air, pulling the crowd back and forth like a wave. Many of the merrymakers are dressed in costumes so elaborate that it puts Halloween to shame. In the chaotic, mescal filled night of Dia de los Muertos, you may well wonder who is from the land of the living and who is from the Inframundo.
Despite its name, this holiday is much more about life than death. It is a time to celebrate the cycle of life and to invite the dearly departed in on the party. It is a beautifully boisterous and morbid celebration that reminds us that we all die and that life is to be lived to the fullest in the meantime.
There are several panteons to go to in Oaxaca. The most festive and attended ones are: Xoxocotlan and Santa Maria Atzompa on the 31st.
San Miguel (Panteón General) on Nov. 1 for both day and night.
There are also altar competitions and other events that go on in this main cemetery.
San Felipe del Agua: Nov. 2.
There are also parades and processions that seem to pop out of nowhere in the zocalo and around town. Also consider checking out some of the surrounding pueblos for their own Day of the Dead festivities.
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