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May 29th-June 1st, 2011; Punta de Lobos, Chile/ Puerto Escondido, Mexico Californian surfers have seen this scenario many times: massive Southern Hemi blasts South and Central America before filtering northward; only the outer portion of the swell ...
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March 21, 2012
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Breaking down the top ten sessions of the 2012 Billabong XXL Big Wave Awards
We know, it's a tough question. A bit of a Catch 22, really -- if the number is too low you're a kook, if it's too high you're a liar. But honestly, how big have you gone? Head-high? Double-overhead? 20-foot? And if it's the latter, do you mean 20 feet on the face, or from the back. Mortal scale or Hawaiian scale? Did you paddle into that beast, or were you towed in? And what kind of "big wave" was it exactly: reef pass, pointbreak, outer reef or beachbreak? What kind of swell interval and direction were you dealing with? And where exactly did you ride it? Because let's face it: dropping into 20-foot Tres Palmas is a little bit different than falling 20-feet out of the sky at one of those spooky-cold Emerald Isle slabs.
On the surface, the question seems simple enough, until you start unearthing all those mitigating/ aggravating factors that compartmentalize the most adrenalized waveriding experience of your life. And that's just one wave, for one surfer.
So you can only imagine how difficult it must be for the brain trust (surfers, photographers, editors, and writers) determining the Billabong XXL Global Big Wave Awards. They have to take all that data and more into account, tediously reviewing photographic and video evidence of hundreds of rides from nearly every heavy-water badass on the planet and associated come-ups. Then they have to subjectively determine a handful of "winners."
As the XXL event period draws to close, here's a sampling of how Mother Earth distributed her atmospheric goods for this year's entrants:
1. May 17th, 2011; Shipstern Bluff, Tasmania:
"Biggest Shipstern's ever." That's how the local blokes put it. "As big as it gets really... The biggest forecast I've ever seen." Okay, so you're saying it's big? With the event period igniting on March 21st, the first giant swell of the season took its time in reaching the world's most terrifying staircase this side of an Aztec temple, Shipstern Bluff. But once it did, it came packing 33-feet-at-16-second juice or something ridiculous like that. By the time the sun set on May 17th, the boys had logged several rides worthy of early entry into the Monster Tube and Verizon Wipeouts categories; while Marti Paradisis, Rudi Schwartz and Tyler Hollmer-Cross would also earn Ride of the Year consideration. Not a bad run considering Tazzy's first mates were calling this day "barely rideable."
But then again, isn't Shipstern always just "barely rideable"?
Video Highlights: http://www.surfline.com/surflinetv/primetime/biggest-shipsterns-ever-part-2_56109
2. May 29th-June 1st, 2011; Punta de Lobos, Chile/ Puerto Escondido, Mexico
Californian surfers have seen this scenario many times: massive Southern Hemi blasts South and Central America before filtering northward; only the outer portion of the swell train finding a suitable Golden State stopping station. And let's face it: those places are usually packed. But a swell like this was, as Jamie Sterling put it, "rarer than seared Ahi Poke. I haven't seen a 12 to 20-foot swell with 20-second-plus period with that much south since the early 2000s." While more presbyopic vets like Greg Long actually chased this thing from the Quiksilver Ceremonial Punta de Lobos Invitational to Puerto Escondido -- others sat tight at their favorite junction and waited for their train... or their train wreck. Four Ride of the Year entrants blew whistles from Punta de Lobos while Long stroked into a Monster Tube contender at Puerto. "This was the biggest swell I've seen in over five years," said Skindog Collins about the Mex sesh. "And the biggest I've seen paddled."
Full story:
http://www.surfline.com/surf-news/west-coast-south-swell-photo-coverage_56377/
3. July 12th, 2011; Cloudbreak, Fiji
In between the days of pricey novelty and Dream Tour fixation happened one of the top-five biggest and best days of surfing Tavarua Island has ever seen. The Fijian government's decree to liberalize access to all surfbreaks was barely one year old when this "Fiji Megaswell" dropped 12-foot-plus Cloudbreak bombs on a mostly Hawaiian cadre (plus the odd Aussie, Californian and reigning World Champ playing hooky from J-Bay). And it was so... effin'... perfect. Ryan Hipwood, Kohl Christensen and Mark Healey became instant Ride of the Year contenders while Dave Wassel suffered a two-wave hold-down and Garrett McNamara got his accessories kicked in the worst GoPro-mounted SUP thrashing in history. July 12th would've easily gone as the most bizarre swell event the South Pacific has seen in many years -- if not for what happened next.
Full story:
http://www.surfline.com/templates/article.cfm?id=57570
Video Highlights:
Part One: http://www.surfline.com/surflinetv/primetime/tavarua-dreaming-part-one_57636
Part two: http://www.surfline.com/surflinetv/primetime/tavarua-dreaming-part-two_57840
4. August 27th, 2011; Teahupo'o, Tahiti
This is what happened next: End of the Road. Teahupo'o. Chopes. Tahiti. The infamous "Code Red" swell that conspired with the Billabong Pro Teahupo'o to scare the living shit out of four-fifths of the ASP World Tour (particularly the directors), was so massive, so powerful, so profoundly terrifying, it effectively blew surf journalist supreme Nick Carroll's mind right out the stratosphere, inspiring its own book/ DVD project -- Teahupo'o: Ten Days That Changed Surfing -- to complement the miles of print and online press this historic swell event earned from every surf media outlet on Earth. Carroll admitted having trouble putting the intensity of the August 27th experience into words in his Surfline report, so we won't even try. Suffice to say, 35 of the total 93 Ride of the Year entries came from this single swell on this single day.
Full Story:
http://www.surfline.com/templates/article.cfm?id=58716
Video Highlights:
http://www.surfline.com/video/contests/2011-billabong-pro-tahiti-recap_58768
5. September 27th, 2011; Sunset, South Africa
It was a slow season for the deepwater breaks off Africa's Cape Peninsula before a long-period WSW swell arrived via intense low-pressure that packed 50-knot winds and 40-foot seas. With high pressure prevailing during a slim, two-hour window, clean 17-feet-at-16-second conditions challenged those who'd been waiting for Kommetjie's big-wave beacon, Sunset Reef, to turn on. The day made for some worthy XXL entries, while also serving as the coming-out party for 15-year-old Max Armstrong, who threw himself over the ledge alongside Josh Redman, Twiggy Baker and others who negotiated the crowded but supportive lineup. Before the wind came up and turned this into a tow-only situation, the Sunset session did allow for South Africa's fourth Rebel Session -- a freesurf-based big-wave contest where judges analyze video footage and photos to award prizes based on the most epic rides. Sound familiar?
Full story:
http://www.surfline.com/surf-news/big-swell-in-south-africa_60702/
6. October 16th, 2011; West Oz Bombie/ The Right, Australia
"Heavier than I've surfed it before," marveled Mark Mathews, who joined fellow Aussienauts like Richie Vass, Laurie Towner, Ryan Hipwood, Phil Read and bodyboarder Brad Hughes for a date with The Right. "Three two-wave hold-downs in a surf, that's pretty nuts." A few nauseatingly filthy XXL entries resulted, the video below telling the tale of this swell better than anything else. Except for maybe the local boat driver, Blue Bowden, who leaves us haunted with a chilling question: "How many times can you cheat death and get away with it?"
Video highlights:
http://www.surfline.com/surflinetv/primetime/righteous_62297
7. October 30th-November 1st, 2011; La Vaca, Spain/ Santa Marina Island, Spain/ Priaia do Norte, Portugal
One or two mainstream key jockeys prematurely claimed Garrett McNamara having ridden the elusive 100-foot wave here in Portugal. The jury's still out on that one, but one thing's for certain: GMac's commitment to exploring the Nazaré Canyon, a rare geomorphology phenomenon located in front of Praia do Norte, resulted in a descent that easily catapulted him into XXL contention status, including a Ride of the Year entry. While other Spanish summits from this swell were included in several categories, the novelty of what this Hawaiian madman did here in Portugal stands alone. "They are probably the biggest waves in the world with this kind of bottom (beachbreak)," said GMac when first considering this region a viable big-wave option. A year later, he proved that theory correct.
Full story:
http://www.surfline.com/surf-news/gmac-goes-xxl_62342/
8. January 3rd-6th, 2012; Outer Reef, Oahu/ Peahi, Maui/ Maverick's, California/ Todos Santos, Mexico
Jamie Mitchell at Todos Santos, Koa Rothman at an Oahu outer reef, Mark Healey and Ben Andrews at Maverick's, and a whole legion of psychos at Peahi... That's how many XXL contenders you get when a large-scale, well-forecast NPAC swell marches across the Pacific and lights up every big-wave spot in its fetch: Todos, Mavs, Jaws... Even Waimea broke (sort of). While an all-paddle session took precedence over four-stroke stoke while the wind was down in Maui, giant unruly surfed washed through most Oahu breaks, a 50-foot rogue even ringing an outer reef's bell. By the time Mex and NorCal were getting in on the action, they were already preparing for another massive swell.
Full story:
http://www.surfline.com/surf-news/npac-goes-xxl-take-two_64595/
9. January 30th-February 8th, 2012; Maverick's, California/ Central Coast, California/ Outer Reef, Oahu/ Peahi, Maui
"There were some 45-foot faces out there," said Skindog about a day at Maverick's. "I haven't seen a swell like this in a while." Between Mavs, Jaws, Oahu outer reefs and one anonymous Central Coast slab, this behemoth swell resulted in 12 Ride of the Year entrants. Once Pipe started washing through to delay the Volcom Pipe Pro, attention shifted to Waimea (where a dude's leg was broken and Sunny Garcia nearly drowned), and the outer reefs (where Alex Gray got five stitches and a giant purple blob on his leg), and then Jaws (which claimed a jet-ski and a bunch of surfboards), and so on. But no matter what the XXL panel determines, the real winner in this swell might've been Monster Tube contender and Central Cal slab fiend Chad Jackson. "Chad was one of two surfers, all day. Nobody else surfed!" exclaimed photographer Mike Jones. "This was the biggest and cleanest day I've ever shot out here in the past 10 years."
Full story:
http://www.surfline.com/surf-news/hawaii-swell-photos_66541/
10. March 8th, 2012; Mullaghmore Head, Ireland
With the XXL event period's end date less than two weeks away (dusk of Vernal Equinox), the Emerald Isle was blessed with an active sea state producing a great run of late-winter surf before a massive storm granted extra-large treachery at the Lord of the Rings-ish sounding slab known as "Mullaghmore." With strong high-pressure centered over the Azores, a large pressure gradient over the North Atlantic set up a strong, broad fetch directed towards Ireland and Scotland. Waves in excess of 50-feet within the system were confirmed by satellite data (while ice-cream headaches and soiled shorts were confirmed by many more), allowing a hearty blend of Irish lads to shake up the Billabong XXL Global Big Wave Awards like the frothy head of a stout at last call.
Full story:
http://www.surfline.com/templates/article.cfm?id=67891
$50,000 BILLABONG XXL RIDE OF THE YEAR AWARD (locations)
4/11/11: Teahupo'o, Tahiti/ Cloudbreak, Fiji
5/17/11: Shipstern Bluff, Tasmania
5/19/11: Puerto Escondido, Mexico
5/29/11: Punta de Lobos, Chile
6/24/11: El Buey, Chile
7/2/11: Teahupo'o, Tahiti
7/12/11: Cloudbreak, Fiji
8/10/11: Punta Docas, Chile
8/27/11: Teahupo'o, Tahiti
9/15/11: Albatross, Victoria
11/1/11: Praia do Norte, Portugal
12/12/11: Mullaghmore Head, Ireland
1/4/12: Outer Reef, Oahu/ Peahi, Maui
1/5/12: Maverick's, California
1/6/12: Todos Santos, Mexico
1/20/12: Peahi, Maui
1/30/12: Outer Reef, Oahu/ Peahi, Maui
2/8/12: Maverick's, California
3/8/12: Mullaghmore Head, Ireland
BILLABONG XXL BIGGEST WAVE AWARD (locations)
6/8/11: Punta Ure, Chile
8/10/11: Punta Docas, Chile
8/27/11: Teahupo'o, Tahiti
9/1/11: Puerto Escondido, Mexico
10/17/11: Praia do Norte
10/30/11-11/1/11: Praia do Norte, Portugal
12/15/11: Agiti, Basque Country
12/17/11: Nelscott Reef, Oregon
3/8/12: Mullaghmore Head, Ireland
*numerous dateless*
MONSTER ENERGY PADDLE IN AWARD (locations)
4/22/11: Punta de Lobos, Chile
5/29/11: Punta de Lobos, Chile
5/31/11-6/1/11: Puerto Escondido, Mexico
9/21/11: Nelscott Reef
9/27/11: Sunset, South Africa
10/16/11: West Oz Bombie, Australia
10/30/11: La Vaca, Spain/ Santa Marina Island, Spain
12/8/11: Phantoms, Oahu
1/3/12: Maverick's, California/Punta Galea, Basque Country
1/4/12: Peahi, Maui
1/5/12: Maverick's, California
1/6/12: Todos Santos, Mexico/ Maverick's, California
2/8/12: Maverick's, California
2/16/12: Peahi, Maui
*numerous dateless*
MONSTER ENERGY MONSTER TUBE AWARD (locations)
5/17/11: Shipstern Bluff, Tasmania
5/19/11: Puerto Escondido, Mexico
7/12/11: Cloudbreak, Fiji
7/21/11: Cloudbreak, Fiji
8/27/11: Teahupo'o, Tahiti
2/8/12: Central Coast, California
*numerous dateless*
VERIZON WIPEOUT AWARD (locations)
4/26/11: The Right, Australia
5/17/11: Shipstern Bluff, Tasmania
7/12/11: Puerto Escondido, Mexico/ Cloudbreak, Fiji
8/27/11: Teahupo'o, Tahiti
10/16/11: The Right, Australia
10/26/11: Shipstern Bluff, Tasmania
1/4/12: Peahi, Maui
1/31/12: Peahi, Maui
2/16/12: Pipeline, Oahu
3/8/12: Mullaghmore Head, Ireland
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