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Re: Soul Surfer Johnny does Puerto 1978-1980 August 29, 2011 05:06AM | IP/Host: ---.prod-infinitum.com.mx Registered: 4 years ago Posts: 2,317 |
Yeah, that incident may be "out of time," but it did occur in Puerto, in the late 80's, as best I can recall. Probably between 1986 and 1990. I wasn't here for the occasion, and relied on accounts from a friend of mine who was here when that swell hit.
According to him, a big wave bodysurfer himself, the swell hit as described, and Foo and Bradshaw were in Puerto for it. I agree that surf forecasts in those days were sketchy at best, but my friend gave me an honest account of what happened, because he was really excited about having hit Puerto on such a big swell, with such illustrous surfing companions. (They were both well-known and famous at the time.) And he's not the kind of guy who BS'ed about surf.
I also took a little "literary license" with that incident, because either Bradshaw or Foo was sick with an apparent case of "tourista," and did not go out (I think that was Bradshaw) but that the other (Foo) did go out. The swell was big, as described, 25-30 foot faces with 25-foot lefts peeling off Marinero, running all the way to the inside of the Bay, and closing out at 8-foot where the creek hits the Bay.
Good observations, but I'm sure my friend will attest it occurred pretty much as described.
Edited 4 time(s). Last edit at 08/29/2011 08:04AM by Farkem.
According to him, a big wave bodysurfer himself, the swell hit as described, and Foo and Bradshaw were in Puerto for it. I agree that surf forecasts in those days were sketchy at best, but my friend gave me an honest account of what happened, because he was really excited about having hit Puerto on such a big swell, with such illustrous surfing companions. (They were both well-known and famous at the time.) And he's not the kind of guy who BS'ed about surf.
I also took a little "literary license" with that incident, because either Bradshaw or Foo was sick with an apparent case of "tourista," and did not go out (I think that was Bradshaw) but that the other (Foo) did go out. The swell was big, as described, 25-30 foot faces with 25-foot lefts peeling off Marinero, running all the way to the inside of the Bay, and closing out at 8-foot where the creek hits the Bay.
Good observations, but I'm sure my friend will attest it occurred pretty much as described.
Edited 4 time(s). Last edit at 08/29/2011 08:04AM by Farkem.
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