Don't let Huatulco's Mexican colonial-style architecture fool you

Don't let Huatulco's Mexican colonial-style architecture fool you—most of it is just a few decades old. The brainchild of Fonatur, Mexico's tourism development agency, this is one of the country's newest Pacific-coast resorts, and it represents a carefully balanced attempt at mixing high-end tourism with environmental preservation. The Mexican government set aside about 60% of the municipality of Huatulco (pronounced wah-TOOL-koh) as an ecological reserve, and all new construction adheres to strict codes: No buildings taller than six stories and plenty of open space and natural vegetation in between.

The result, so far, is a resort with a very different feel. Visitors are not going to find ancient ruins in Huatulco, but they won't be overwhelmed with glitzy high-rises and rowdy crowds either. What you'll discover in Bahias de Huatulco are nine gorgeous bays and 36 golden-sand beaches covering 22 mi/35 km. Many of these beaches are ringed by coral reefs, underwater grottoes or canyons that attract shoals of fish.

It's not surprising, then, that cruise ships now make Huatulco a regular port of call as part of their sailings along the Mexican Riviera. Myriad watersports as well as adventures to nearby coffee plantations, five different culturally distinct neighborhoods, a vast subtropical forest reserve and mountain streams mean there's something for most visitors to do—in addition to simply relaxing in deluxe seclusion.

Dining

Naturally, you'll find seafood and Mexican specialties on every menu, but other cuisines ranging from Italian to Asian are available in Huatulco. Good regional dishes, such as chicken mole (prepared with a sauce combining chocolate and chilies, tortillas, raisins and other ingredients) and tamales, are plentiful, too. Where you end up eating may depend on the activities you choose for the day. The hotels in Tangolunda generally offer the most upscale and expensive restaurants. Dress, especially for dinner, is more formal at these establishments than in the rest of Huatulco, although jackets are not required and each has casual poolside or beach-club dining as well. La Crucecita's restaurants (mostly on or around the main plaza) tend to be smaller and less expensive. In Santa Cruz, your choices include dining at one of several casual, mostly seafood restaurants right on the beach or at one of the hotel restaurants. Chahue now has a sprinkling of bars and restaurants as well.

Expect to pay within these guidelines for a meal for one, not including drinks, tax or tip: $ = less than M$100; $$ = M$100-$200; $$$ = M$201-$500; $$$$ = more than M$500.

Local & Regional Restaurants

Don Porfirio

In the heart of the hotel zone, Don Porfirio offers beef, chicken and seafood. Try a steak and lobster platter with a Mexican beer. On Saturday, there is a live music and dance show 8:30-10 pm. Open daily for lunch and dinner. $$. Most major credit cards. Blvd. Benito Juarez 24, Tangolunda. Phone 581-0001. http://www.donwilo.com/don-porfirio.

El Mexicano

High-quality Mexican dishes in an open-air beach setting. Try a Mexican grill, with tamales as a starter. $$$-$$$$. Most major credit cards. Las Brisas Hotel, Ventura Beach, Tangolunda. Phone 583-0200.

El Sabor de Oaxaca

On the main plaza in La Crucecita, "The Taste of Oaxaca" provides just that, serving grilled steaks with beans, handmade corn or flour tortillas and guacamole. Diners can also choose regional appetizers or more exotic fare such as Oaxaca's trademark chapulines (spicy fried grasshoppers). Salads, soups and hamburgers with fries are also available. Open daily for breakfast, lunch and dinner. $$-$$$. Most major credit cards. Guamuchil 206, La Crucecita. Phone 587-0060.

La Crucecita

Sells a range of hearty Oaxacan food, such as black mole (chocolate and chili sauce) over chicken. Daily for breakfast, lunch and dinner. $-$$. MasterCard and Visa accepted. Bugambilia 501, La Crucecita. Phone 587-0906.

Los Portales

Oaxacans love the local flavor of this sprawling restaurant, which features typical Oaxacan dishes such as moles, plus traditional cuisine from all over the country. Carne Tampiquena (flank steak served with beans, fried tortilla chips and guacamole) is a favorite. For lighter meals at night, there are tacos and hamburgers. Daily for breakfast, lunch and dinner. $$-$$$. MasterCard and Visa accepted. Bugambilia 603 (on the main square), La Crucecita. Phone 587-0070.

Terra-Cotta

Locals fill this clean and stylish cafe-restaurant for cream-cheese-stuffed French toast and yummy chilaquiles. For lunch and dinner, choose from Mexican favorites and a few international dishes. The outdoor cafe offers gourmet coffees, Italian ices, smoothies and ice cream. Open daily for breakfast, lunch and dinner. $$. Most major credit cards. Gardenia 902 (at Tamarindo, in Hotel Mision de los Arcos), La Crucecita. Phone 587-0165. http://www.misiondelosarcos.com.

Weather

Huatulco enjoys a year-round average temperature of 82 F/28 C and boasts 330 sunny days a year. Humidity is present year-round. Winter lows don't dip much below 60 F/14 C, but summer highs can reach 100 F/38 C. Rain is rare December-May. The rainy season is June-October. During this time, the ocean can be rough, and some roads, especially in the mountains, may be washed out.