Oaxaca's Pacific Coast
"La Playa Chica" is literally translated as "the little beach" in Spanish, and this is the nickname given to the stretch of Pacific coastline between Puerto Escondido and Huatulco. The following is a guide to fast, efficient and cheap travel along the Pacific Coast of Oaxaca state in southern Mexico.
Transportation Across the Pacific Coast of Oaxaca, Mexico
La Playa Chica is actually a fairly long stretch of brilliantly beautiful coastline on the southern and western shores of Oaxaca state. The diversity of activities, wildlife, cuisine and accommodation in this relatively small space is impressive and perhaps even overwhelming. Fear not, getting around and enjoying as much as possible of what the Playa Chica has to offer is easy, cheap and efficient if you are familiar with one of Mexico’s best kept transportation secrets; second class buses, collectivos and camionetas (see the glossary below for clarification of these terms).
1. Puerto Escondido to Mazunte and Zipolite
Despite being one of the bigger cities on the coast, Puerto Escondido has a very small first class bus terminal that you might miss on the busy main street. It’s squeezed between the market and the crucero and includes a number of options under the umbrella of “first class” ranging from luxurious ADO Platino, to the comfortable OCC and the more humble AU or SUR.
If you are heading to any of the above locations, you will want to take either a SUR or AU, as the first class buses will not stop to let you off outside of certain designated places, so unless you want to go all the way to the Pochutla bus terminal (and you might) choose one of these lines. The driver will let you off at the Mazunte or Pochutla crucero if you ask. Or, better yet, take a second class bus from the nearby intersection.
If you exit the first class bus terminal facing the main street, there is a bustling and rather awkward intersection just to your left. This is the “crucero” of Puerto Escondido. Most Mexican cities have a location (or two) like this, and once you discover it, you have unlocked the secret to second class travel in Mexico. Buses of various classes as well as taxis can be found in or near this location. No doubt you will hear the conductor or the driver (most Mexican buses have both) loudly shouting the intended final destination (in my experience this is usually a high staccato beat that rings twice; Pochutla Pochutla!). A small white bus with a blue stripe and looking more than a little rickety will be waiting to take you to the cruceros of Mazunte and Pochutla. here you will have to disembark and take a camioneta or collectivo or especial taxi to the beach. These buses cannot accommodate a lot of luggage and can be crowded on holidays and weekends.
A note about locations before this gets too confusing; both Mazunte and Zipolite are some ways from the main road. Once you leave Puerto Escondido, the road swings further away from the coastline until you are back in the jungle again. After about 45 minutes, you will reach the crucero of Mazunte. There are a number of shops and stores here along with taxis and camionetas that will take you to the coastline where you can find the Turtle Museum, the zocalo and various specialty stores. Your transport of choice will probably depend on the amount of luggage you have.
The crucero of Pochutla is the twisted gauntlet you have to run if you’re going to Zipolite or Puerto Angel. You do have the option of taking a camioneta or taxi from Mazunte as well. The main street in Mazunte also serves as a regular transport hub, and this services a different and much smaller and slower road that is closer to the beach. If you are already in Mazunte, and you want to continue south and west, you don’t have to return to the main road.
Navigating the Pochutla crucero is not complex once you get the hang of it. In fact, it’s actually a brilliant system. The intersection itself is a bit lopsided, but despite the various turn-offs it is only four corners. The bus from Puerto will let you off at this location before it takes a left and heads up the hill into Pochutla. In case you need basic supplies there is an Oxxo on the far corner. The road that narrows and heads to the right (the opposite direction of the bus) has a small stop for camionetas and collectivo taxis. There is almost always a taxi here waiting to take people to Puerto Angel and Zipolite, and if there isn’t, one will be along shortly. There’s almost always a vendor here selling drinks or snacks of you have to wait. If you’re in a rush and want to take an especial, they are much cheaper from here than in the city. To give you an idea of the cost, an especial taxi from the bus station in Pochutla costs, at minimum, 120 pesos. I have never paid more than 60 for one from the crucero. And it’s barely a five minute driving distance between the two points.
It takes about 20 minutes to reach Puerto Angel from the Pochutla crucero. At the time of writing, Puerto Angel is still experiencing a lot of construction, but for the most part the new, handsome lock-stone roads downtown are done. However, your mode of transportation still might experience some route changes. Ask your driver or another passenger if you’re hoping to be dropped off near a specific place; almost everything of note is along the main road and it's a small town. If you need to change to an especial taxi to go to another location within the city, there are several near Playa Principal (main beach), in a parking lot across from the Maritime Military base. Otherwise, just sit tight, as your transport will move along to Zipolite, only about 10 more minutes away.
The beach of Zipolite is very long compared to the other places that you've been so far, so your driver may ask where you would like to be dropped off; Playa Amor or Rocca Blanca. Playa Amor is the small, secluded beach on the far west side of Zipo, whereas Rocca Blanca (a big, white rock that sits out in the ocean near the beach) is the dominant landmark on the eastern side. Unless you specify, your driver will let you off near the Rocca Blanca side, where a short walk will take you to the small main street. Yellow flags mean swim with caution!
2. Pochutla to Huatulco and the Bahías
If you are heading to Huatulco, it’s still a good idea to travel from the crucero of Pochutla and not bother going into the city. The road to the left heads to Pochutla, the road to the right leads to Zipolite, and Huatulco and the Bahias are straight ahead. As was previously mentioned, there are various bays around Huatulco and the transportation that you take from here will let you off at most of them.
The southwest corner, which comes to a point in front of a military base, is where you can wait for your camioneta to Huatulco. There is often a gentleman with a walky-talky here who is in contact with the camionetas that go to Huatulco. This “camioneta” is not one of the little trucks with a covered cab that you would have seen going to Mazunte or Zipolite. This is a slick, oversized minivan complete with air con and lush seats. Even though these are often crowded they are still convenient and comfortable. They are fast, frequent and cheap. You will likely wait no more than ten minutes and if you go all the way to Hualtulco, the price is only 25 pesos. You can also take this route to Huatulco if you are coming from Zipolite or Puerto Angel; just disembark at the Pochutla crucero and take two steps to the right.
These camionetas stop at almost every track, path and dirt road along the way to Huatulco. Most of your fellow passengers will be commuters heading home or to work (depending on the time of year or day). Talk to your fellow passengers or your driver if you want to explore some of these smaller communities and hidden coastlines. Otherwise sit tight until you reach the southeastern end of the Playa Chica.
3. Huatulco to Salina Cruz
The first indication that your camion or bus is nearing Huatulco will be an international airport that will appear on the hill to your left. It's actually so discreet (like everything in Huatulco) that you might miss it. This is also where the long stretch of Bahias begin as well, starting with San Augustine to the right, accessible via one of the many taxis that can also be found at this intersection. This is actually the “crucero” of Huatulco. There are also a lot of transportation options here in the form of buses and collectivos, as the actual city of Santa Maria del Huatulco is north of the airport and where most people reside.
The camioneta continues from this point down a brand new and impeccable four lane road that swings smoothly towards the zocalo, also known as La Crucecita. There are two bus stations here only a few blocks apart; the second class station and the first class station. They’re also within easy walking distance of each other if you want to shop around. Be wary of your surroundings, as Huatulco is designed to feel small and natural, so the rolling hills and tall trees might disorient a new visitor. However, unlike the other cities on this list, other languages are widely spoken in Huatulco, and almost anyone (even the security guard at Soriana) can help you out with English directions. There are also residences here, but also more upscale hotels and condominiums.
The camioneta will pass a block away from the hidden second class terminal. The driver will let you off at a small roadside bus stop if you ask. Cross the street and straight ahead on the right, you will find the second class bus terminal. You can take a bus from here to Salina Cruz for 80 pesos (the Istmeños line will take you past Salina Cruz to Tehuantepec and Juchitan for an extra 35 pesos) or a collectivo. The collectivo is more expensive (120 pesos) but much faster. These buses also stop at several beaches on the way (these are some distance from the road, be prepared to share a taxi or pay for an especial if you don’t have your own transportation if you want a closer look).
Across the street from the first class terminal is generally where the camioneta empties out. You are also within walking distance from La Crucecita where you can shop, eat or casually stroll while waiting for your bus. The bus terminal here has several options to all points, and is the preferable choice if you are planning a long trip past the Isthmus (to Oaxaca, Mexico City, the eastern province of Chiapas or neighboring Guatemala).
Glossary;
centro: Not to be confused with the term “zocalo”, the square or park normally found in the centre of every Mexican town, this refers to downtown generally.
crucero: Every city in Oaxaca has an intersection where most of the transportation options can be found, such as bus stations (for first and second class, and perhaps also for camionettas)
camionetta: A small bus that resembles a large van or a small truck with a tarp and sitting area in the back, these are the inexpensive, small, frequent and fast options for travelling shorter distances.
collectivo: A shared taxi that goes just about anywhere in or near an urban centre (even from city to city under certain circumstances).
especial: the term given to a private taxi. Few taxis are always one or the other; drivers switch back and forth at will depending on their passengers’ needs. All you have to do is ask.
City snapshots (from north to south):
Puerto Escondido: Very spread out, a good example of a city that got too big too fast, Puerto Escondido enjoys a long history of visitors that goes back to the pirates that sought it out as a “hidden” refuge and gave it its name. This is where you will find the most surfers and snowbirds (the latter being responsible for most for the new growth in the city), along with a wide range of accommodation and shopping options. There many beaches in this town in every state of development, so take your pick and have fun. The city is a bit on the gritty side, with some issues with safety, cleanliness and infrastructure, as it doesn’t have the money or clout that it’s pretty sister Huatulco enjoys. The more modern Zicatela is more popular with tourists but the older parts of town also retain a lot of charm and modern conveniences. This includes an international airport, one of the few found in the state outside of Oaxaca City.
Mazunte: A very small town that is quaint, lovely and friendly to the point of being suspicious, Mazunte is a trendy, hipster paradise that is also somehow not pretentious. Despite the smallness (only a single main street that gently winds past several restaurants and stores mars this idyllic seaside hamlet), you can find almost anything you want here. Specialty stores that include cosmetics, food, clothing and accessories and local arts and crafts can all be found in Mazunte but the prices tend to be high, comparable to a much bigger resort town. Additionally, this is the home of the famous Turtle Museum and perhaps the genesis of the sustainable development movement that dominates the modern Playa Chica.
Zipolite: Rumours say that the name translates to “The Beach of the Dead” as this notoriously dangerous stretch of coastline includes a fierce undertow that can suck an unsuspecting swimmer or boater out to sea very quickly. The upside of this is that there are no boat launches in Zipolite and on calm days you can still swim in certain safer areas. You can also come here to get away from the cruise ship tourists and shopping bags that tend to clutter up Mazunte. If Mazunte is the trendy hipster of the Playa Chica, Zipolite is its unapologetic bohemian hippy cousin, cruising down the beach in the buff with a big ol’ fatty, happily leaving a trail of purple smoke in the air. Yes, Zipo is home to Mexico’s only nude beach and the police presence here is slim to none (and slim isn’t in town very often).
Puerto Angel: Only a few short years ago, Puerto Angel was virtually unknown. Unlike the long, open stretches of beach that characterize Puerto Escondido or Zipolite, Puerto Angel is more like Mazunte in the sense that it’s beaches are tucked away into smaller bays. It also had a very dilapidated zocalo and many of the steep, winding roads were in very rough shape. Treated as a stepping stone between Pochutla and Zipolite, there was no reason to stop in Puerto Angel unless you wanted to launch your boat or visit one of the three Universidad del Mar campuses (there are two others; in Puerto Escondido and Huatulco). Today, however, Puerto Angel is experiencing an infrastructure renaissance. Both the government and private investors are starting to recognize the location’s potential. The zocalo is being refurbished and rebuilt and several downtown streets have been repaved. Several boat tours that are sold in places like Zipo and Mazunte leave from here, and more visitor friendly details (cash machines, internet cafes, specialty food and clothing stores) are appearing almost every day.
Pochutla: Not a coastal town but essential to know for transport, preparation and accommodation purposes, Pochutla is another town that is rather ill-equipped when it comes to first class transport, despite it’s size and location as a transportation hub for both the Playa Chica and points north. Two years ago, the first class bus station was a small office, a few wooden benches, and a parking lot across the street. Now, there is only the parking lot across the street but with its own ticket window. Luckily the REAL transportation options are either at street level in the form of taxis (collectivos and especial) and camionetas. In fact, if you are exploring the coastline, it’s better to keep to the crucero outside of town for your transportation needs and ignore Pochutla centro completely (unless you need cash, first aid or other practical supplies).
Huatulco/Las Bahias: Huatulco is more than just a single city. It is a complex but orderly and beautiful network of neighborhoods (barrios), sustainable construction, nature reserves, and of course, beaches. Huatulco itself is actually a city slightly away from the coastline, where most of the daily commuters who work in Huatulco’s various tourism-related industries live. Most travellers end up in one of the many Bahias, or bays, that are the main draw of Huatulco. This lovely city by the sea, nicknamed “the anti-Acapulco”, was painstakingly built as a model of sustainable tourism. Despite it’s size and sheer number of modern amenities, Hualtulco’s design of several small communities connected together rather than a large urban area with a central point allows it to retain it’s non-threatening, small town feel. Even the first class bus terminal, nestled at the bottom of a long hill and an impeccable four lane road, is much bigger than it looks from the outside. Of all the cities along the Playa Chica, this one will impress (and also cost) the most. The tourism here is directed at a more upscale crowd but overall the atmosphere is diverse, eclectic and very hospitable.
Salina Cruz: Puerto Escondido's evil twin, Salina Cruz is about two hours away from Huatulco as you follow the coastal highway. The drive is the real incentive here, as Salina Cruz has little to offer anyone who is not a petroleum engineer, maritime worker or hardcore surfer (and I say that because only the hard core curfers know which beaches here are good and which ones are slick with refinery runoff). Several small beaches in various stages of development can be found along this scenic drive from Huatulco, although it is more helpful to have your own form of transportation to reach most of them. If you are visiting the Isthmus (Mexico’s narrowest point, which has some interesting cultural and geographic features but is still quite rough) or Chiapas (the Mexican state to the east of Oaxaca, the gateway to Mayan Mexico and Guatemala), stopping in Salina Cruz might be unavoidable just to change buses, find a cash machine or buy supplies. Like Pochutla, Salina Cruz is more of a transport and commerce hub and has very little else to offer travelers.
Other Points to Ponder;
To the left of the the first class terminal in Puerto Escondido on the same side of the street is a depot of orange and white “camionetas” that go to points north (Oaxaca, el DF) and west (Pinotepa; be cautious if you are traveling in this direction, as the roads to Guerrero state have been dangerous recently with many buses and cars being stopped and robbed by banditos). The road to Oaxaca City is still safe (at the time of writing) but be cautious of any routes that even just pass through Guerrero state.
Various discounts are available for tourism related activities in Mexico, even transportation. Teachers and students can often enter museums, parks or historic sites for free or at a steep discount. Even if your teacher or student ID is from another country, you can try it, and an international student or teacher ID card might be a worthwhile investment. First class buses offer discounts if you buy your ticket one day in advance and have other offers for popular routes and for certain times of the year. Even second class buses offer “medio” (half price) for teachers and students on weekdays. If you are a resident or a citizen, museums and cultural sites are usually free as long as you have your credentials (a passport or your visa).
The Playa Chica is a part of Mexico that is still relatively unknown and authentic. If you want to avoid the heavily touristed areas like Acapulco and Cancun, then you have to see the Little Beach for yourself.
