It was still dark when Greg Long paddled out at the big-wave beach break in Mexico.
The San Clemente surfer has spent much of his life traveling to this spot at Puerto Escondido, shooting down south in summer months any time the forecast models show a big swell brewing.
Greg Long holds a check for $15,000 for his Wave of the Summer.
PHOTO COURTESY OF EDWIN MORALES
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It’s a challenging wave that has you hunting for just the right spot, trying to figure out the rip currents, where the peaks are moving. On a day in early August, the first of three big swells showed. Long spent hours in the water positioning himself for the right wave. After four hours of waiting, it came.
Photographers caught Long pulling into the 20-25 foot, heavy barrel, and this week Surflineannounced that the 29-year-old won this year’s $15,000 prize for the “Wave of the Summer.” The wave had to be ridden and captured on video between June 1 and Aug. 31.
Long is no stranger to big-wave accolades. He’s won one of the most prestigious big-wave contests, the Quiksilver in Memory of Eddie Aikau. He’s racked up more wins than anyone else at the Billabong XXL Big Wave Awards, and last year was named the SIMA Waterman of the Year.
We chatted with Long about his latest big-wave adventure and win.
What’s the “Wave of the Summer” contest all about?
Long: Nike puts on the contest with Surfline. They had the same contest in Hawaii, the “Wave of the Winter.” This is the first year they changed it to wave of the summer. It’s basically held where the biggest, heaviest wave is, so they decided to hold it at Puerto Escondido. It focuses on one geographic location. It’s the heaviest – if not the heaviest – beach break in the world.
Tell us about surfing Puerto, and this trip:
Long: I’ve been surfing down there more than 10 years now. Surfing aside, it’s just a beautiful place; the people are amazing. It’s without a doubt, one of my favorite destinations in the world. I’ve dedicated a good portion of my life to surfing down there on every big summer swell, as it is one of the best big waves in the world. On any good day, you can get the wave of your life. In August, we had three very big swells, and that wave was on the first swell. I go out there when it’s still dark in the morning. I’ll paddle out in the harbor. And I’ll sit from first light and make my way up and down the beach, fighting the currents, looking for that one wave, the wave of my life. That wave wasn’t necessarily it, but it was one of those barrels that was worth the wait. It took me four hours to get that one wave. I’m happy with winning that award, but that’s never my intention going down there; it’s a very personal mission to get the best rides of my life. I would have been there on that swell regardless, because I love surfing there.
How difficult is Puerto to surf?
Long: Puerto is a beach break, it has extreme current, peaks move up and down the beach. It’s extremely different, and one of the most difficult to put yourself in the right position. It’s a constant battle against all the elements, the rips the currents, where the peaks are moving to put yourself in the right spot. There is method to the madness. Most people think it’s just a beach break, but there is a bit of strategy behind it. I feel like I’m getting closer to finding a rhythm out there. I set my sights and expectations low.
Surf us through this “Wave of the Summer:”
It was a pretty sizable day. The judging criteria are on size, how heavy it is, and they are looking for a barrel – how deep you are. The wave let me in easily; I had a nice clean drop. Once I was in the barrel, it was so perfect. All I had to do was stand there, go straight down and let the wave do the work for me. I wish there was some extravagant storyline…I just rode the barrel for a few seconds and there it was.
Puerto is also regarded as a very dangerous wave, is it not?
It’s one of the most dangerous waves in the world. My best friend nearly drowned. We were able to resuscitate him. He came out of a coma a few days ago. He’s going to be fine. There’s extreme, inherent risk when you go to surf it when it’s big. It’s a serious wave of consequence – which is why they chose it; it is one of the heaviest waves in the world. My brother just dislocated his shoulder the same day I caught my wave. Ian Walsh got pretty beat up on the last swell. It’s not for the faint of heart. It really takes a toll on you.
What are you up to before the winter season kicks off?
There’s no immediate travel plans, right now. I usually spend these two months training intensively, getting myself physically and mentally prepared for the winter season. The main staples of my training – I do a lot of yoga, I spend a lot of time in the pool and in the ocean swimming and diving doing breath-holding training, and cardio-training. I’m always on a special diet, I’m very conscious of what I eat and what I put in my body.
You’ve been helping on a film production for “Chasing Mavericks” to share the life of Jay Moriarity. How is that going?
I’m driving up to Hollywood right now to get the final screening of it and offer my input. They’ve taken every measure necessary to try to keep the integrity throughout the film, and not have it be the same old Hollywood surf movie. I was up there giving my advice and input; I’m looking forward to it. The most important thing for me is that it does justice in telling Jay’s story, and his legacy. That’s the only thing I’m worried about. I don’t care how I look on the big screen. I want people to be inspired. The whole experience was amazing. Being involved in the big Hollywood production was a great learning experience, seeing the whole process of how the movie is made. I know from the surfing point of it, we did the best we could. The rest is up to Hollywood to bring it to life.
It feels good to win, but I don’t come here to win money or get famous - Greg Long
