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A little about Playa Zipolite, The Beach of the Dead . . .

Playa Zipolite, Oaxaca, Southern Mexico, on the Pacific Ocean. A little bit about my favorite little get-away on this small world of ours.

Zipolite, a sweaty 30-minute walk west from Puerto Angel, brings you to Playa Zipolite and another world. The feeling here is 1970's - Led Zep, Marley, and scruffy gringos.

A long, long time ago, Zipolite beach was usually visited by the Zapotecans...who made it a magical place. They came to visit Zipolite to meditate, or just to rest.

Recently, this beach has begun to receive day-trippers from Puerto Angel and Puerto Escondido, giving it a more TOURISTY feel than before.

Most people come here for the novelty of the nude beach, yoga, turtles, seafood, surf, meditation, vegetarians, discos, party, to get burnt by the sun, or to see how long they can stretch their skinny budget.

I post WWW Oaxaca, Mexico, Zipolite and areas nearby information. Also general budget, backpacker, surfer, off the beaten path, Mexico and beyond, information.

REMEMBER: Everyone is welcome at Zipolite.

ivan

Friday, June 6, 2014

The Exceptional Traveler: A Traveler's Alternative to Assisted Living

The Exceptional Traveler: A Traveler's Alternative to Assisted Living

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"Travel is more than the seeing of sights; it is a change that goes on, deep and permanent, in the ideas of living." -- Miriam Beard
How To Do Exceptional Things Inexpensively
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My mother, Doris, at 83
My mother was a beautiful, active woman when she had a stroke. Afterward, her mind and speech were as they'd always been, so were her expectations. She resisted any changes to her lifestyle or "being told what to do" and many of our attempts to keep her safe failed. We'd find the MedicAlert device by the bathroom sink or on a nightstand in her bedroom; anywhere but around her neck. After a year, even with the help of a sainted caretaker named Nereyda, we knew we needed a Plan B.
I considered many options and countries before deciding to rent a house in Mexico. We came close in Panama, but moving my mother to a property beneath a volcano... well, I wasn't setting myself up for those endless family jokes. It turned out that Mexico had everything: short, inexpensive and frequent flights, excellent health care, affordable help, American TV on cable, American foods at Walmart -- and Mom could chat for hours with friends through a low-cost international phone plan.
I was at the Mexican Tourist Office when I casually asked if anyone knew of someone with a home to rent and was surprised that within a week I received two messages on my answering machine offering houses with real possibilities. The first unfortunately didn't have a bedroom on the ground floor; the second was in a village outside of Oaxaca and sounded perfect. The owners Leslie and Richard were living in Madrid and after a long phone conversation with Leslie, I booked a ticket to Oaxaca to see the house.
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El Oasis couldn't have been more aptly named. Situated behind a high wall, the crimson-colored house overlooked a vista of the Juárez mountains. My heart sunk at the dramatic entrance with steep stairs, but the manager quickly showed me a back door level with the street.
El Oasis was an artist's house filled with books and a collection of glazed jade-green pottery from Santa María Atzompa in the multicolored-tiled kitchen. French doors in the master bedroom opened onto a patio with small gurgling fountain; the wide entrance to the huge private bathroom offered easy access and independence for someone using a walker. There was a separate two-bedroom guest cottage and an office where my partner, Tony, and I could work. The gardens were filled with fruits and herbs. As I toured the property, a large sweet mush of a dog named Betty joined me. It was as if the house had been designed for us with every single feature we needed.
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I sent Leslie an email describing the help my mother would need. In addition to the regular staff of three (Cipriano, house manager/driver; Rosa and Margarita, housekeeper and laundress), Leslie hired Marta, an English-speaking registered nurse who would live in, and the indomitable, warm-hearted Lourdes as cook. Mom would be catered to and pampered; she could eat what she wanted, bathe when she wanted, and Cipriano would drive her wherever she wanted to go. The staff of five would cost the same as one person had in New York. And doctors, even specialists, made house calls!
El Oasis was located in what appeared to be a tiny dirt-road village, but uncovering the depth of the community was the perfect metaphor for peeling the layers of an onion. The adorable elderly couple Modesta and Sinon were happy to order whatever I requested if they didn't have it in their tiendita. Same with Adolphina at her produce stand. Bardomiano roasted coffee beans for the international market and us; the superb seamstress Margarita tailored Mother's duvet cover I'd brought to fit Leslie's quilt. By day two, Mom was drinking pure nectar juices squeezed by Lourdes.
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Rosa and Margarita
At home we'd resisted getting a wheelchair. We'd clung to the belief that with rehab, Mother would walk again. But in Mexico a wheelchair represented freedom to explore. We went for lunch at Hotel Camino Royale, the beautifully converted 1576 Santa Catalina convent with remnants of faded frescoes on the walls and a covered terrace restaurant. Cipriano drove us to the Sunday Tlacolula market, the largest indigenous market in all of Latin America, where it seemed everything, from the tangerine and rose-colored ice pops to the deep-yellow grilled corn, was sprinkled with sweet red chile powder. We bought armfuls of wildflowers for almost every room in the house and bags of dried jamaica flowers to boil into the tart cranberry-like juice we loved.
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Tlacolula Market
We'd arranged a rotating schedule so that Mother would never be without family or friends. Initially it was Tony and I one month, my brother two weeks, my sister and her daughters two weeks, then one of Mom's friends for two weeks (they were already lined up for months) before it was back to us.
Tony and I both work freelance, so we could stay longer whenever we wanted or needed to. In the pool, with water streaming through my hair and over my body, the stress of New York hospitals and emergency rooms disappeared. Tony picked handfuls of limes from the garden each night for drinks and perfected a sorbet made from three varieties of mangoes. The house was filled with music. We were thriving here, not just Mother, but all of us.
My brother and sister were at our mother's side when she died. I returned to see an altar the staff improvised at the foot of her bed; saint decals on glass candle holders luminous in flickering flames; bouquets of flowers in vases draped with rosary beads; Mom's photo prominent in a silver frame. She'd died around the time of Day of the Dead celebrations and my sister and I joined thousands to remember loved ones at the local cemetery. Our mother had the best last year of life anyone could hope for, and it couldn't have been in a better place.
Don't limit yourself when you're looking for the solution to a problem. It's a big world.
Click on the green comment box to the left of the article as you read. Let me hear about your experiences. Ask questions. I'm happy to offer suggestions and look forward to solving challenges together. And check back every two weeks for my latest travel tips.
Next blog: My First Date With Airbnb
Disclaimer: I receive no compensation for my recommendations.

Thousands evacuated as Mexico braces for storm

Thousands evacuated as Mexico braces for storm
Thousands evacuated as Mexico braces for storm

The government of Chiapas evacuates 16,000 people as tropical depression Boris approaches northern states.

World Bulletin / News Desk
At least 16,000 people have been evacuated in northern Mexico as tropical depression Boris bears down on the region.
Boris, which was earlier downgraded from a tropical storm, is expected to make landfall in the states of Chiapas and Oaxaca on Wednesday, bringing torrential rain.
The Governor of Chiapas, Manuel Velasco said: "We’re going to have days of intense rain. We expect a precipitation of 250 millimeters per day - about 500 millimeters in 48 hours."
“In Chiapas we evacuated families of the zones of the Istmo-Costa, Soconusco, Frailesca and Sierra."
The National Coordination of Civil Protection said 42 municipalities in Chiapas had been put on emergency.

Evacuation call

Velasco asked people who lived in high-risk areas to take refuge in local government hostels.
The Mexican Navy and Army, are preparing to assist federal and local governments in aiding the civil population.
The National Commission of Water said Chiapas, Tabasco, the south of Veracruz, Campeche and the east of Oaxaca will have torrential rains throughout Wednesday.
The institution said the rains will continue in the states, and Quintana Roo, until 6 June.
Rains are also expected to strengthen across the south of the Gulf of Mexico.


Related mexico storm

Mexico: Tropical depression Boris packs heavy rain 2014-06-04

2014-06-04 Environment

Mexico: Tropical depression Boris packs heavy rain

 
 
     
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TUXTLA GUTIÉRREZ, Mexico – A storm named Boris that’s lingering off Mexico’s west coast was downgraded to a tropical depression on June 4 but is still packing heavy rains that could cause deadly flash floods and mudslides.
The warning from the U.S. National Hurricane Center said Boris could dump as much as 50 centimeters of rain in some parts of the states of Chiapas and Oaxaca.
Boris was expected to make landfall later on June 4, according to the center’s tracking map.
The storm was packing maximum sustained winds of almost 55 kilometers an hour, down slightly from June 3. It was still moving toward the north at seven kilometers an hour.
But Boris is expected to weaken later on June 4.
In Guatemala, rough weather produced a landslide that killed six people near the Mexican border on May 31.
The national disaster relief agency said as many as 100,000 people have been affected by bad weather that has caused damage to homes and roads. Schools also have been closed in parts of Guatemala.
Last week, the remnants of Hurricane Amanda were blamed for three deaths in Guerrero and the neighboring state of Michoacán.
[AFP (Mexico), 04/06/2014; Milenio (Mexico), 04/06/2014; El Financiero (Mexico), 03/06/2014; Prensa Libre (Guatemala), 31/05/2014; Siglo 21 (Guatemala), 31/05/2014]

Tuesday, June 3, 2014

8 strange foods to eat in Puerto Escondido, Oaxaca, Mexico Posted by Michele Peterson on Jun 3, 2014 in Food and Drink, Mexico, Mezcal, Puerto Escondido | 10 comments

8 strange foods to eat in Puerto Escondido, 

Oaxaca, Mexico

Posted by  on Jun 3, 2014 in Food and DrinkMexicoMezcalPuerto Escondido | 10 comments
8 strange foods to eat in Puerto Escondido, Oaxaca, Mexico
There’s no better way to dive into a culture than by sampling  the local cuisine. Here are a few strange foods in Puerto Escondido, Oaxaca, Mexico. Are they delicacies or fear-factor dining? Take a bite ( or a sip) and decide!
1. Salsa de Chicatanas: At the beginning and end of the rainy season, locals gather baskets full of flying ants as the insects escape from their flooded nests. The black ants are then toasted on a clay grill called a comal and ground in a molcajete to make salsa de chicatanas, a treasured spring delicacy. The ants are so prized you won’t find them in the market so your best bet is to sign up for a food experience with Gina Machorro at the Information Booth or befriend one of chefs at a restaurant such as Las Margaritas, that specializes in local cuisine.
Tasty trio of grilled chicatana, a la Mexicana and salsa for tacos Credit: Gina Machorro
A tasty trio of grilled chicatanas (ants), ants a la Mexicana and ant salsa for tacos Credit: Gina Machorro
2. Tamales de Tichinda: These warm tamales are stuffed (and accompanied) by fresh black snails. Look for them near the Colotepec River or try them in the towns surrounding Chacahua Lagoons National Park.
3. Chapulines: Crunchy, toasted and spiced grasshoppers are delicious in tacos or on their own as a quick snack. Take a food tour with Gina’s Walking Tours for an introduction to these crispy critters or buy some in Benito Juarez Market and experiment with them as topping for your favourite dish.
chapulines at Benito  Juarez market  in Puerto Escondido Oaxaca Mexico
Pick up some toasted chile grasshoppers called chapulines at Benito Juarez market
4. Cuitlacoche: This unique black corn fungus is so revered for its earthy flavour that it’s known as the Mexican truffle. Appearance-wise, the delicacy may be as appetizing as a lump of coal, but the black gold fetches top dollar in local markets.
5. Mezcal: There’s a reason that artisanal mescal, tequila’s quirky cousin, is steadily earning its place on bar shelves worldwide. While tequila production is restricted to only one type of agave, skilled Oaxacan mescaleros craft mezcal blends using up to 20 different types, resulting in subtle nuances in flavour ranging from citrusy to smoky. For an adventure in taste, try a shot of Don Franco, a potent local  liqueur or indulge in mezcal made with pechuga (raw chicken breast).  Worm salt will make it taste even better.
Mezcal production in Oaxaca
Mezcal production in Oaxaca, Mexico
6. Nopal: Visitors are likely to raise an eyebrow when first spotting the prickly plant on the menu, but nopal cactus is one of Mexico’s most iconic ingredients.Try it for yourself at the market, where you can watch Zapotec or Mixteco vendors remove the spiky spines, peel the rind and then stack the shiny paddle-shaped leaves to go. With its delicate, tangy flavour, cactus is versatile.
nopal in Puerto Escondido's Benito Juarez Market
Shop for nopal in Puerto Escondido’s Benito Juarez Market
7. Mole: This staple, which can refer to a variety of traditional sauces, takes hours to make and is a must-have at any Mexican celebration. Though Oaxaca is known as the Land of Seven Moles, if you’re forced to choose just one, go for the mole negro: a rich, spicy and smoky-sweet sauce made from tomatoes, almonds, raisins, chocolate, plantain and chilis, including the rare chilhuacle variety, grown only in southern Mexico.
8. Paletas: Icy paletas, made by freezing purified water with sugar and fruit, offer a quick and delicious way to cool off in the heat. Expect to find watermelon, guava and mango along with exotic creations like tequila, gooseberry or jicama with chili and gardenia petals.
Fresh fruit paletas or popsicles in Oaxaca Mexico
Fresh fruit paletas or popsicles in Oaxaca Mexico
Travel Planner
Oliver Dawson and Alvin Starkman of The Beer and Mezcal Lover's Tour of Oaxaca, Mexico
Oliver Dawson and Alvin Starkman go local during The Spirit of Oaxaca Mezcal and Beer Lover’s Tour of Oaxaca, Mexico

Sample plenty of artisanal mezcal, authentic Oaxacan cuisine and craft beer during the 7-day  Spirit of Oaxaca Mezcal and Beer Lover’s Cultural Tour, taking place on November 1, 2014. While the tour doesn’t go to Puerto Escondido ( yet), it goes deep into the countryside of Oaxaca to meet local mezcal producers.
You can also sample artisanal mezcal at the special  dinner events hosted by The Mexykan Supper Club.
Suzanne Barbazet, the About.com guide who’s a wealth of information about Mexico, also offers custom and specialty tours of Oaxaca through Discover Oaxaca Tours. Read about my unforgettable experience with Discover Oaxaca Tours during Day of the Dead in my postCemetary-tripping in Oaxaca City Mexico. 
Download the Puerto Escondido Travel Essentials mobile travel app with 185 insider tips on restaurants, hotels, vacation rentals and activities. It’s available for $2.99 for iPhone, iPod, iPad and Andorid in the App store and on Google Play.


    



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