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7 Tips for Budget Travel in Cancun and the Mayan Riviera JUN 29 Posted by TC

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7 Tips for Budget Travel in Cancun and the Mayan Riviera

JUN 29

Posted by TC

You can smell the sea from the Cancun airport. No more stuffy airplane, no more boring job in your cold hometown. Welcome to paradise – the Mayan Riviera. Welcome to Cancun.

The Mayan Riviera is a jungle coastline of white-sand beaches, ancient ruins, enormous aquatic theme parks, traditional colonial towns, and clear-water cenotes, freshwater sinkholes and caves in the flat limestone sponge of the Yucatan peninsula.

The great Mayan ruins of Chichen Itza, one of the new Seven Wonders of the World, are only a few hours from Cancun on good highways. In the other direction, rocky Tulum rivals Chichen Itza with its location on limestone cliffs overlooking the sky-blue Caribbean.

You can stay at an all-inclusive resort right on the beach in Cancun, take guided tours to the ruins, and drink margaritas by the pool all day. You’ll have a great, relaxing vacation. But you won’t experience the real Mexico. Not even close.

How could you? Why would you venture into downtown Cancun for real tacos when you have a free buffet in your luxury hotel? Why would you travel inland to Valladolid when the beach party starts at 10 a.m. every day?

Independent budget travel in the Mayan Riviera is safe, easy, and cheap – even if you don’t speak Spanish. Here are a few tips to help you plan your trip.

Tip 1: Getting to Cancun from the airport

If you stay in a resort, they will probably arrange transportation from the airport. If you want to do it on your own, the cheapest way to get from the airport to downtown Cancun is on the ADO bus.

At the time of writing, it leaves every half hour until 11:30 p.m., takes about 30 minutes, and costs 62 pesos ($5 USD).

After you pass immigration, before you exit the airport, look for the ADO booth among all the booths for rental cars and hotels. Ask for centro (downtown). Then as you leave the airport, take a right and walk toward the bus area.

The bus takes you to the ADO station downtown, and from there you can walk to cheap hotels.

There are also direct buses from the airport to Playa del Carmen. They leave every half hour, take about one hour, and cost 140 pesos ($12 USD).

Tip 2: Choosing a Hotel

You can find budget hotels all around the ADO bus station in downtown Cancun, or a few blocks from the beach in Playa del Carmen.

Downtown Cancun is a 20-30 minute bus ride from the Hotel Zone, the beach and all the resorts. By staying downtown you can get better prices on everything, including hotels, restaurants, and souvenirs.

Give yourself some time to walk around. Many hotels have the prices posted behind the front desk. If not, you will have to ask, and don’t expect everyone to speak English here, though they should figure out what you want. Bring a pad of paper and a pencil so they can write down prices for you.

It’s a good idea to look at the room. Try out the bed. Check the water pressure. Turn on the air conditioner. Is it too weak, or too loud? Some hotels have kitchens, some have a computer for guests to use, some have tourist information. Compare.

If you want to stay more than four or five days, try asking for a discount.

Outside of high season (around Christmas and New Year’s, the week before Easter, and late July/August), you should be able to get a decent room from as low as 250 pesos ($20 USD) to 500 pesos ($40 USD) per night.

During high season, everything gets more expensive, and I recommend making reservations beforehand.

Tip 3: Choosing a restaurant with authentic food

In general, you find three kinds of restaurants in the Mayan Riviera: foreign restaurants that serve burgers, pizza, or sushi; Mexican restaurants geared towards foreign tourists; and real Mexican restaurants, geared toward Mexican tourists or locals.

Beware the Mexican food in big, touristy restaurants on the beach. Mexicans tend to think that foreigners don’t like spicy food, so they dumb it down. If a tired basket of nachos sits on every table and the salsa tastes like marinara sauce, then you are in the wrong place.

Seek out real Mexican food in restaurants patronized by locals. Some tip-offs are: the menu painted on the wall or written on a dry-erase board, a big flat grill and the cook up front, bright lighting, very simple décor, plain white walls, and even a little peeling paint or exposed concrete.

But the most important way to know if the food is authentic and clean is to look at how crowded the restaurant is. If it’s packed, it’s probably good. If it’s empty, it’s empty for a reason. The best way to avoid food poisoning is to never eat in an empty restaurant.

It’s good to ask for suggestions, like at the front desk of your hotel, but explain that you want something real. Otherwise you will be directed to a restaurant with the “Americanized” Mexican food they think foreigners like.

Some good places to find authentic food are Parque las Palapas in Cancun, the Bazar Municipal in Valladolid, and smaller, “hole-in-the-wall” restaurants two blocks or more from the beach in Playa del Carmen.

Tip 4: Communicating with the locals

Many people speak English in this part of Mexico, especially those who work in tourism. But once you get off the beaten path, you’ll need a little Spanish.

Whether the person speaks English or not, it’s polite to start the conversation in Spanish. Start with one of these at the right time of day:

Buenos días (good morning)

Buenas tardes (good afternoon; used until after sundown)

Buenas noches (good night; a greeting, not a goodbye)

Then say ¿Habla usted inglés? (Do you speak English?) and No hablo español(I don’t speak Spanish).

That’s easy enough, right? Just 5 phrases.

After than, learn more Spanish. Mexicans are friendly and patient, which is good for the foreigner struggling with Spanish.

Tip 5: Visit archeological zones on your own

The two most common forms of public transportation in the Mayan Riviera are buses andcolectivos, big white passenger vans.

From the ADO bus station downtown, buses go all over Mexico, including Valladolid, Chichen Itza, Merida, Chetumal, Palenque, and beyond.

Use the website (www.ado.com.mx) to get an idea of prices and routes, and then buy your tickets at the bus station. Most workers at bus stations speak English, but just in case, write down the destination and the time you want.

For example, here is the schedule from the airport to downtown Cancun:

If you are on a budget (and speak Spanish or have a helper), ask at the station for a second-class bus. They can be much cheaper than ADO and go to the same destinations. Be sure to ask how long the trip will take, and compare it to ADO, because the second-class bus could take much longer.

For points south, like Playa del Carmen and Tulum, take a colectivo. The ones for Playa del Carmen leave from just outside the ADO station. They are cheaper and faster and leave more frequently than the bus.

You can take a guided tour to Tulum and Chichen Itza, and though they will explain everything in English, they may rush you through it. If you go on your own, you can get there early and have lots of time to explore.

For example, inside the archeological zone at Tulum is one of the most beautiful and iconic beaches in Mexico. If you go on your own, you can stay and swim as long as you want.

If you have the time, I recommend staying in Valladolid before going to Chichen Itza. Valladolid is a beautiful colonial town full of local culture. By staying in Valladolid, you can have several hours at Chichen Itza in the morning before all the tour groups from Cancun arrive.

Colectivos go to Chichen Itza from several parking lots a block or two from the ADO station near the central park in Valladolid.

Tip 6: Safety concerns

The good news is that the Mayan Riviera is one of the safest regions in Mexico. However, it’s a good idea to ask at your hotel what the neighborhood is like, especially if it’s safe to walk at night, and if there are any places to avoid.

Besides that, regular common sense for travel applies: Don’t wear expensive jewelry, don’t pull out large wads of cash in public, keep your wallet in your front pocket, don’t let your purse or camera bag out of your sight, and don’t look at a map in public – take it indoors.

Tip 7: Buy my guide to Cancun and the Mayan Riviera

Shameless plug: These tips and many more are explained in detail in my Cancun and Mayan Riviera 5-Day Itinerary, available on Unanchor.com and the kindle version on Amazon.com.

The guide is for the independent traveler who likes the beach, but also wants some culture. Besides saving a lot of money, you will:

• Have two full days on two gorgeous beaches: Cancún and Playa del Carmen.
• Explore two Mayan ruins: Chichén Itzá and Tulum.
• Dip your toe into Yucatán culture in Valladolid, a small colonial town in central Yucatán.
• Swim, snorkel or scuba dive in the clear, freshwater Dos Ojos cenote.
• Eat what Mexicans eat: seafood, tacos, and Yucatán specialties like panuchos and salbutes.
• Shop, party, get tan, and learn some Spanish, history and culture. And, if time permits, venture farther into Mexico and Central America.

The guide’s full appendix includes information on hotels, public transportation, restaurants, culture, and Spanish phrases. You’ll save more than the $4.99 price the first time you follow my advice on a bus, restaurant, or cenote.

This part of Mexico may be the most popular, but in some ways the least understood. I try to remedy this with my modest guide.

Click the book for more info

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Monarch Butterflies in Mexico

Every autumn, one of the most spectacular natural phenomena can be observed in the forested mountains west of Mexico City: wintering Monarch Butterflies.

Learn about these marvelous insects, their 3,000 mile journey from the US and Canada, and how you can experience the sight and presence of the wintering Monarch at one of the butterfly sanctuaries. If you are traveling in Mexico between November and March, this is one of the most rewarding outdoor experiences you will encounter.

• The Monarch Butterfly
• The Monarch Winter Migration
• The Monarch's Reproduction & Journey Back North
• Monarch Sanctuaries in Mexico
• Practical Information
• Monarch Butterfly Trip Organizers

The Monarch Butterfly

The Monarch Butterfly, in latin known as Danaus Plexippus, is native to the North American tropics. An adult wingspan will reach about 4.5 inches (11 centimeters) and weight one gram or less.

Milkweed plants provide an essential food source for their caterpillars. The milkweed contains a chemical that is toxic to many species, but which Monarchs can, uniquely, assimilate and store in the cells of its outer skin. This in turn provides the butterfly with a powerful defense 'shield' against potential predators and thus assists the insects in their 3,000 mile journey south, to winter in the mountains west of Mexico City.

Adult Monarchs live only for 3-4 weeks. However, one of the mysteries of these insects is their capability to breed what has been termed by scientists as a 'Methuselah' generation. This is a very special generation of butterfly, born once a year near the end of the summer months. These butterflies can live up to 9 months and this generation will not breed in the north: instead, the butterflies store up nectar from flowers and use this as fuel to enables them to migrate south for the winter.

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The Monarch Winter Migration

Migrating Monarch butterflies travel in colonies of about 20 million insects and will travel between 80-120 nautical miles per day, depending on the wind and other weather conditions. The butterflies take advantage of ascending warm-air currents, gliding in the thrust they provide, needing only to flap their wings when the air current diminishes a little or when they change their flight path. This technique uses their energy efficiently, and physically enables them to undertake the long journey.

The butterflies travel only by day and will roost overnight, usually on the branches and trunks of trees. You can learn more about this truly amazing migration here (USDA Forestry Service).

By around mid November each year, the Monarch butterflies will begin arriving in Mexico. They settle in the oyamel fir tree forests which are situated in the eastern perimeter of the Mexican state of Michoacan, also bordering the state of Mexico, in the forested mountains west of Mexico City.

Once here, the butterflies cluster on the tree trunks and remain in the area for the winter. As the sun heats the day, some of the butterflies will flutter in the forests and return to the tree trunks when the air cools.

YouTube: Monarch Butterflies

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The Monarch's Reproduction & Journey Back North

In February, when the temperatures begin to rise, the Monarchs begin their mating rituals. The females will lay over 400 eggs each on the fine leaves of the asclepias and afterwards gather nectar from the flowers, the fuel source that provides the energy for them to make the journey back north.

By mid March, the same Methuselah generation of butterflies that arrived here in November will begin fluttering in a bid to catch the spring time's ascending air currents which will propel them on their journey back across the border to the United States and Canada.

Their short-life progeny, which begin life in the mountains of Mexico, will also begin the return journey back to the United States and Canada, in a staged relay covering several generations of butterflies.

The 'great-great grandprogegy' of this year's Methuselah generation will return to Mexico; and although they themselves have never flown south before, they will instinctively know where to fly as it's believed that their sense of direction is passed on to them genetically from their ancestors. Latest research also suggests that the butterflies possess an "inner clock" which enables them navigate by means of the sun's position in the sky.

This remarkable life cycle is manifested by an insect that weighs less than a gram, but who's 'pollinating agent' work plays an enormously important role in our planet's eco system.

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Monarch Sanctuaries in Mexico

The butterflies begin arriving from mid November each year. January and February are the most popular months for visits, as it's during this time that the butterfly population is at its peak.

The sanctuaries are open to the public between 6 a.m. and 6 p.m. seven days a week. Weekends are considerably busier that week days, especially in January and February.

You can visit one of the sanctuaries independently or you can go as part of an organized Monarch Butterflies Tour. Most guided tours visit the El Rosario or Sierra Chincua reserves.

The Mexican government has set up a number of protected sanctuaries within a biosphere reserve to ensure that the important habitats required by the Monarch Butterflies are protected and preserved, while still allowing visitors to witness these remarkable insects and enjoy some of Mexico's most breath-taking landscapes.

The Monarch Butterfly Biosphere Reserve covers an area of over 560 square kilometers (350 square miles) and has been recognized by UNESCO as a World Heritage Site since 2008.

Monarch Butterfly Sanctuaries:

There are four sanctuaries open to the public, two in the state of Michoacan and two others in the state of Mexico. The biosphere is on the eastern edge of the state of Michoacan and crosses into the state of Mexico. The two most frequented sanctuaries are:

El Rosario - Near the town of Ocampo in the state of Michoacan

Sierra Chincua - Near the town of Angangueo in the state of Michoacan

Getting to the Monarch Butterfly Sanctuaries

If you are traveling independently, you can either take a bus or rent a car and drive to the area. Although the Monarch tours are most often marketed as day tours from the colonial city of Morelia or Mexico City, the biosphere is about equidistant between these two cities, making the experience a very long day-trip with a steep hike thrown in for good measure. We recommend an overnight stay at Angangueo if you want to experience the area and the butterflies in the best possible way. See "Accommodation" in the practical information below, for more details.

Getting to El Rosario Reserve

If you are traveling by bus from Mexico City, go the eastern bus terminal (known as Observatorio) and buy tickets on a direct bus to Angangueo, a four hour trip. There are frequent buses from Morelia to Zitacuaro, the third largest city in the state of Michoacan; the journey takes about three hours. From Zitacuaro you can board a local bus north to the town of Ocampo, or take a cab for a fare of approx US$18. From Angangueo, you can take a local bus or a taxi ride (fare approx US$10) southwards, to reach the trail head of El Rosario.

Getting to Sierra Chincua Reserve

This reserve is situated about five miles north from Angangueo (see above), but the trail head is higher and it's a less strenuous climb up the mountain. To get here take a local bus signed to Tlalpujahua, or jump in a cab to get taken to the trail head; the fare is around US$10 each way.

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Practical Information

Whether you travel independently or as part of an organized tour, you will find this practical information valuable to make good preparations for your visit.

When to Go

Depending on the climate and weather conditions, the butterflies may start arriving at the biosphere as early as late October or as late as the third week in November. The best months to visit are January and February, which is when the butterfly population reaches its peak. However, these are also the busiest months so if you go then, we recommend you visit on a week day and avoid the (crowded) weekends.

Weather and Temperature Influences

Monarch Butterflies like and need warm weather, which is why they migrate south. On colder days when cloud and/or rain are present or on days when a cold front has come to pass in the biosphere region (these happen on occasion every year and last from a couple of days to a week) the butterflies will be less active. Keep your eye on the weather reports; if your plans are flexible, try and choose a couple of days when the weather will be warmer, for the best experience. How far up the mountain you have to climb also depends upon the time of year. During the coldest months, (November - January) you will need to hike higher to see the butterflies; as the weather warms up, the butterflies move down the mountain.

Local Accommodation

Day tours are marketed to the butterfly sanctuaries from Mexico City and Morelia; however, they make for very long day trips and with the hike at high altitude can be wearing and make the experience less pleasant. If you are traveling independently, we recommend you take the time to stay in the area, get a good night's rest a small few miles from the trail head, take a hearty breakfast, and experience the butterflies that way. Experienced Tour Operators will include an overnight stay in Angangueo as part of their itinerary. The hotels in Angangueo cannot be easily booked on online; if you don't visit by means of a an organized tour, local hotel names to consider for accommodation include Hotel Don Bruno, Plaza Don Gabino, Cabañas Margarita.

Your Physical Fitness

The bus, car or taxi can lead you to a trail head, but it's uphill on foot from there. Horseback rides are available from Chincua, see below for more details. The trails up the mountain are narrow and steep and you will need to be physically fit to make the journey.

Altitude

The hike can lead you above 3000 meters (nearly 10,000 feet) above sea level: the air is thin and altitude sickness can affect you. Be sure to take water; vendors sell bottled water at the trail head if you forgot to bring your own. Climb slowly, taking regular breaks--and pace yourself. If you ascend too quickly at this altitude, you could easily feint. See Also: Article on Altitude.

Dress for the Occasion

The micro climate on the mountain means that it can be quite cool or quite warm, depending on the day. You may feel cold at the trail head, but quite hot after climbing for an hour. Dress in layers, allowing your body to warm-up or cool-down as required. Also, take a good pair of hiking shoes or boots; footwear that supports your ankles is best. Flat soft shoes, sandals and flip-flops are completely inappropriate.

Afternoon Walking

On warmer afternoons, the butterflies fly low to settled at ground level, seeking the cooler air and moisture. Inevitably, some butterflies get crushed by visiting walkers... watch your step and try to be as gentle as possible on your feet.

Keep to the Trails

You must keep to the trails inside the reserve areas - this minimizes the impact of walkers and visitors on the butterflies. Hiking off the trails is prohibited anywhere inside the biosphere.

Horseback Rides

If you are not up to physical challenge of climbing at this altitude, you may like to consider doing the trail on horseback. El Rosario does not have a horse path, but Sierra Chincua does. Horses can only go so far up the mountain; when the intensity of the butterflies increases, you will need to dismount and complete the journey on foot, so some physical exercise will be involved.

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Monarch Butterfly Trip Organizers

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