Friday, 2 March 2012
Buena onda
BOOM into the heart of la Ciudad de Mexico. A city that is so vast and spreads across the landscape dominating and suffocating all in its path. Having never been in a city to this immense proportions I found it a combination between being in awe and overwhelmed. The centre of the city is dense and wide, taking hours to cross while it spreads up the mountainous hill sides with makeshift houses where people live tax-free. However they also have no access to mains water so why should they pay tax! These people, over 5 million, are not counted in the 22 million estimated population of the city, spread out over 8000 square km (the 5th largest urban agglomeration in the world - thanks Wikipedia).
The contrast to Cuba is huge. One could buy anything and everything in this city. Trinkets for tourists are sold on every corner along with tacos, quesadillas, sincronizadas, empanadas, and of course advertising is hugely present. I think a German must have been involved in city planning as it is organised into blocks all selling the same thing. So if you are looking for a book there is a whole block of book stores, the same if you are after shoes - head to the 'zapaterias' block, likewise for a wedding dress or anything else you can think of! I wasn't taken by any of the dresses - however if I wanted to look like Cinderella or any of the Disney princesses it would have been perfect, all the glitzy sparkles and plastic pearls on lurid pinks, purples and mint greens.
 |
| A Diego Riviera mural in the National Palace |
Taking a tour to Teotihuacan pyramids was definitely the highlight of our time in Mexico City. My first sight of ancient Zapotec/Aztec ruins like this and WOW WOW WOW. I was very impressed. We climbed every one, the moon and the sun pyramids and the Templo de Quetzalcoatl (much to James' dismay as the steep steps were a good thigh burner - as if the beating heat from the sun wasn't enough) we saw many beautiful carvings and were treated to spectacular panoramic views of the surroundings from the top of the sun pyramid.
The anthropological museum was definitely one not to be missed - we wandered amongst all the ancient artifacts from many ages, tribes and civilisations. I was hugely inspired by the early ceramic work, from the oldest civilisation dating back to 10,000BC. And the craftsmanship of the jade jewellery was very impressive as well, however the Aztecs topped it all off with their stone-carving sacrificial table and snake heads!
 |
| getting up close n personal |
Keen to get out of the crazy city, we went northwards to the town of Angangueo to see the monarch butterflies who hibernate in the 3,600m-high woodlands nearby. Timing our visit perfectly as in February they are just coming out of their 2 month hibernation period and preparing to mate so are at their most active. Most of their kind, in North America and Canada, only live for 1 month, but the generations born at the right time live over 9 months, as they are the cycle suited to the 4,500km yearly migration.
They gather in their billions and weigh down the branches of the oyenal (fir) trees - an incredible sight. As the sun warms the cool air they ignite the forest with fluttering flashes of orange, creating a truly magical atmosphere. We stayed a few hours, entertained and in awe of the quantities, before we went back to our freezing cold room (only 5 degrees but without any heating or fire it felt freezing especially as we were inappropriately prepared with one jumper between us). I bought a sheep wool hat and big long bootie socks fitting right in with the locals in no time!
 |
| a girl is always happy shopping |
the sweetest slushpuppy- teeth rotting material
 |
| butter wouldn't melt... |
In search of warmer pastures we headed south to Zipolite for some beach time. James was very happy at home in the slow-paced hippy vibe with the added convenience of wifi. We spent a few days there soaking up the sun and watching the pelicans surf the air currents along the waves, diving into the water, gobbling up fish and taking to the wing again narrowly avoiding being munched by the monster waves. Not too many people surfing just a few locals in the evening as there were very strong currents and most waves closed out immediately.
Suitably warmed and relaxed we took a bus to the cooler highland of Chiapas where we stayed at San Cristobal at 1900m. A very pretty town, quite touristic but for good reasons - the quaint cobbled streets and colourful houses lined with excellent restaurants and shops full of creative arts and crafts. Warmly greeted into our pretty hostel with breakfast by the fire to warm us up from the chilly morning air. We went straight out, jumping on a bus to the Canyon del Sumidero to enjoy a boat tour along the river, giving us the most impressive views of the towering limestone cliffs, some reaching over 1000m high.
This is where the indigenous tribes had gathered to perform mass suicide, to save themselves from becoming slaves to the Spanish invaders.
 |
| plastic? |
 |
| nope! |
Adding to the sombre mood it was a shame that one area where the water washes rubbish up together showed the disastrous effect of human civilisation on the natural environment. There were big signs saying to be careful of cleaning machinery... but it didn't look like any clean up operation had happened in a long time. The Mexican government have more important things to be spending their money on I guess - like the hydroelectric power station we were proudly shown at the end of the gorge. Still it was an impressive sight of natural beauty with an abundance of wildlife trying to live peacefully alongside our detrimental effects.
Valentines day in San Cristobal treated us well and with three other guys from our hostel enjoyed dinner over some live jazz fusion - the sax was a killer, as were the rums and tequilas! The following night we ate well again in an Italian restaurant where the chef was so distraught by James' request to add pineapple to the chorizo pizza... "mamma mia, zey all have different cooking times, zis will change the whole recipe!". So plain chorizo it was and very delicious too - later he explained that the recipes are tried and tested and cannot be changed at the drop of a hat. It's great to meet an Italian living up to the stereotype of full-on passion for good food. And boy did he know his stuff!
 |
| Back in the jungle once more! |
 |
| numero 88 |
From the cool highlands we plunged back into the heat and 90% humidity at El Panchan near Palenque, deep in the heart of the jungle. A small settlement christened Panchan by the founder, meaning 'Heaven on Earth' in Mayan. Don Moises then divided his land up to his children to make businesses from.
 |
| a bit of scaling! |
Now a booming hippy hangout, a handful of huts, cabins and room are available. A couple of restaurants with live music and fire-spinning, set in creatively painted huts. At night the jungle came ever more alive with the abundance of insects and fireflies lighting up the air, a natural paradise.
Rudy is from a nearby village and his first language is Mayan, learning Spanish at school and now doing a course in English. A very knowledgeable guy, telling us all the ins and outs of the Mayan daily life.
...Mexicans appear to love Beetles - there's at least one on every street!
No comments:
Post a Comment
Thank you. Comments are welcome.
ivan