August 6, 2012

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WAVE OF THE SUMMER: PUERTO FINALLY DELIVERS

Update: Click here for the photo and video slideshow

Last Friday night, the generally bustling Zicatela beachfront was quiet. Quiet, that is, except for the Pacific Ocean unloading thunderous crashes a few hundred yards off the main drag. Some glasses clinked and laughs resounded in a couple of bars, sure. But there were no wild parties. No surfers running amok. Because Saturday morning, this summer's wave drought would finally be over.

How'd we know? Simple. We asked Surfline forecaster Jon Warren.
"At the end of July, an intense storm in the Southeast Pacific rapidly developed a strong fetch very well aimed to the north toward Mexico," he explained. "With the help of strengthening high pressure ridging in behind the storm, the winds in this system reached speeds up to 45-55 knots. The result? A very solid, long-period south groundswell running straight into Puerto Escondido."
This is the kind of forecast that prompts certain chargers to pack up a couple rhino chasers, book last-minute flights and make their way to Puerto's Playa Zicatela to receive the energy.

"It was amazing to finally have some solid swell here in Puerto this season," frequent visitor Greg Long admitted. "There was a great crew who flew in for the swell and, as usual, the local boys were on it and charging."

Saturday morning proved a somewhat friendly warm-up session for guys like Mark Healey, Skindog, Alex Gray, Gavin Beschen and others. While the long-period energy slowly filled in, the real bombs were few and far between. But a handful of guys -- including local standout Oscar Moncada -- rousted a few eight-foot drainers and everyone conceded that this had been some of the biggest surf at Puerto Escondido thus far during this abnormally slow season.

As the swell peaked, Sunday morning proved heaven for some and hell for others. Rusty Long took the wipeout of the day during the morning's opening set. The Puerto regular elevator-dropped into a 12-footer; his fins caught mid-face and sent him cartwheeling to oblivion. He surfaced with a dislocated shoulder and claimed it was his "worst wipeout ever at Puerto Escondido." Which is saying a lot, since he's been surfing here for nearly 13 years.

Around 10:45am, his brother Greg bookended the memorable morning by snagging what many claimed as the unofficial Wave of the Summer thus far. Long split a monster peak with Mark Healey and drove through a heavy 10-foot section on a right. Riding a 9'7" quad, he was completely out of sight as the beast went square; he emerged with the spit and tucked back in for a final thread of the needle. The beach erupted with hoots and whistles as Long straightened out and made his way in to the scorching Mexican sand.

After smiling at a few onlookers, Long immediately inquired, "How's Rusty? I heard he dislocated his shoulder. Should I go back out or quit while I'm ahead?" he pondered. "I think I'm going to call it a morning and go check on my brother."

Before he left the beach, Puerto top gun Coco Nogales congratulated Greg on his stellar wave with a subtle hint of envy. "It's not about the money, Coco," Greg offered up. "You know we're all always out there looking for The One."

But in between the Long brothers' yin and yang, a bevy of memorable thrills and spills went down. North Shore cowboy Mark Healey lassoed a few bucking broncos. Danilo Couto and Puerto first-timer Kohl Christensen wrangled a few rogue bombs, while Danilo quipped, "The whole experience here is amazing -- it's such a challenging wave to ride."

After his first go in the heavy stuff, Kohl quipped, "There was a moment during the biggest part of the swell where I wasn't quite sure if I was excited to be in the right spot or not."

Coco and Oscar both got in the mix as well, solidifying their position amongst the world's best. Aussie underground charger Chris Louger locked into a hotel-room-sized death chamber filled with hissing, breathing spit.

Of course plenty of carnage occurred, keeping the Zicatela lifeguards on constant alert, as well as dragging a handful of helpless, floundering chargers out of Puerto's 12-foot dumping grounds before they got too recycled in the frothy rip currents.

As Sunday's afternoon onshores tickled the heaving lips of the still-pulsing surf, Coco revved up his ski for a tow-in bravado while Healey, Kohl, Greg, Alex and Danilo paddled the giant lefthander at Carmelita's. The crew also returned for the evening offshores as the swell period dropped a tad, prompting massive A-frames to detonate at Zicatela's main peak.

And while PWC-assisted rides don't count towards the Wave of the Summer's $15,000 prize, there's still over three weeks left in the event...and also plenty of swell hanging around Puerto throughout August. For now, it appears Greg Long has a solid chance at the title, but it's ultimately up to the judges...and other surfers still have plenty of opportunity to step up. But one thing is clear: the Southern Hemisphere doldrums are finally over. Especially here at Playa Zicatela.