THE FRONT BURNEROpening up to tastes of Oaxaca
A few months ago I bought a bottle of Vida, an organic mescal. It is made in the "lush, remote mountains and valleys of Oaxaca (wa-ha-ka) Mexico," a region I have long dreamt of visiting. When I opened the bottle to taste this twice-distilled mescal, I think I was expecting something akin to a fine tequila, but this was very different. It smelled of tobacco leaves and was a little like a very earthy, rustic, smoky scotch. Vida was also a little rough, I decided. I put it away.
Some months later, while sniffing spices at the World Spice Merchants in Seattle, I found some dried pasilla chilies from Oaxaca. I could not resist these smoky, deep red chilies. But I didn't actually use them until last weekend while I was making stock from chicken bones. I didn't have much to put in the stock, so I threw in a couple of carrots and a dried pasilla. I was rewarded with a rich, complex stock that was just a little smoky.
I put the stock in the refrigerator and pondered what I would do with it. That very night, I was watching "Anthony Bourdain Parts Unknown." He was in Oaxaca watching the old-school cooks make tortillas over outdoor fires—and he was happily drinking shots of that smoky mescal.
The place and the people seemed beautiful, and once again I wanted to go to Oaxaca. But since I cannot, I decided to make Oaxaca-inspired soup, as my stock was already pasilla-infused.
Many elements of this soup are based on a vegetarian garlic and pasilla chili soup from a 2006 "Food and Wine" issue about Jacques Pépin in Mexico. I added the chili/chicken broth and shredded rotisserie chicken. I used less garlic (the other recipe used a whole head) and tortillas rather than bake croutons as the garnish. Next time I make it, I might cook the chicken in the pot with the chilies.
Regardless, this soup was seriously delicious, and it transported me to a place I have never been — maybe it was Oaxaca. I think I'll sip a shot of that smoky mescal with my next bowl. I have acquired a taste for Vida.
PASILLA CHILE AND CHICKEN SOUP
Look for these chilies in the Mexican section of markets, or in Mexican markets. I found good Oaxaca pasillas at World Spice Merchants at worldspice.com. I used three chilies: one in the stock and two soaked in the stock.
1 quart chicken stock, simmered with a pasilla chili
3 tablespoons olive oil
2 pasilla chilies
1 medium onion, diced
3-4 cloves of garlic, minced
1 big tomato, diced
1 teaspoon of salt (to taste)
1/2 teaspoon dried Mexican oregano (Greek or Italian will do)
2-3 cups shredded, cooked chicken
Warm corn tortillas or fried tortilla strips
Make a simple stock with chicken bones, 1 quart of water, onion, carrots, celery and a dried chili. Refrigerate and skim off the fat. Reheat the stock, and when it begins to boil, pour it over two pasilla chilies in a bowl. Keep chilies immersed for about 30 minutes. Meanwhile, sauté the onions and garlic for about 5 minutes, then add the chopped tomatoes, oregano and the chicken/pasilla broth. Heat to boil, then simmer for about 30 minutes. After it cools a bit, blend in small batches for a smooth broth. Serve hot with warm tortillas (or fried strips), avocado slices, cilantro and a squeeze of lime. It is also good with a dollop of plain yogurt or shredded Mexican cheese such as queso fresco.
Servings: 4
Marcia Vanderlip is the Tripune's food editor. Reach her at 815-1704 ormvanderlip@columbiatribune.com.
