Zipolite
Zipolite is the only beach in Mexico where nude bathing is allowed. The place became famous in 1968, when a total eclipse of the sun could be observed here and drove in droves of hippies. Many stayed and many come again and again. They are still sitting in the yoga seat on the beach, meditating, smoking marijuana, playing the guitar. The long hair is now gray, even the seamlessly tanned body can no longer hide their age. There are many mixed marriages or loose connections with the locals, they work more or less, because the Mexican men are still Machos, but little of equal rights and loyalty, but they claim from their partner. When I arrived in Zipolite, an annual nude festival was coming to an end. A bicycle parade with naked people,
But not because of the naked I ended up here, but because M., whom I met in the Galapagos, has come here for 35 years now and has praised the place in the highest tones. As a young girl she succumbed to the charm of a Mexican, became pregnant and came with a son in Oaxaca. The man, however, has soon made off, or even more pregnant women. 17 years ago, he was killed in a drug dispute in Mexico City. Despite these unpleasant experiences M. loves the place. She knows all the people, speaks perfect Spanish, which I really benefit from. So nobody dares to beat me over the ear.
She also knows the most beautiful places and best restaurants. So we take a boat trip with one of her friends to watch whales, dolphins, turtles and manta rays. The dolphins had great fun accompanying our boat, performing true tricks in front of, under, over and behind the boat. The whales did not look at first, but the boats communicated with each other and when they were spotted somewhere, we raced at full speed in the direction. It reminded me of the safaris in the Kruger National Park. As soon as a lion is seen somewhere, all the other jeeps set off. When they arrive at the site, most of the time the lion has already left. But we are lucky. The whales show up,
Even small manta rays show their flying skills. Only the turtles only offer their back to the birds that settle on it. If you want, you can swim on the open sea, which is hardly possible on the coast. Too strong here is the swell and the flow of the Pacific.
This time I booked an accommodation a little further from the beach, hoping to finally enjoy peace and quiet. To my hut - with kitchen and terrace including hammock - on a small hill above the sea rarely gets lost a car, but from nocturnal rest can still be no question. There are twenty felt dogs in the plant, in all sizes, breeds and colors. During the day they lie lifeless in the shade, but at nightfall they become active at night. They comment on every movement, every sound and when there is nothing to report, they talk to the dogs from the surrounding area in different pitches. I've never heard dogs bark so hard. In addition, how are we in the country, as the Patrona explains, lots of roosters, who start crowing punctually at four o'clock in the morning and do not stop until the sun has risen. One lives right under my window. I confess that I thought of the ceremony in Chamula more than once. Why do you sacrifice only chickens and no roosters? Typical, always the women. The roosters are allowed to fight at least. Again, there are sometimes cock fights.
On the other side of the villas there is a small pool and you can book massages. Guiseppe, an Italian, offers three different techniques. I decide for a relaxing massage. The massage is not very effective, although Guiseppe goes to great lengths and perspires accordingly. His sweat drips on my body. Although he is a nice guy and not unattractive, that's too intimate for me.
All in all, Zipolite is a laid-back place, perhaps even thanks to the hippies being spared from ugly concrete structures and prices being low compared to the Costa Maya. The sea and the long beach are clean and not crowded. Meanwhile, I can understand that some come again and again and often spend the whole winter here.
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