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A little about Playa Zipolite, The Beach of the Dead . . .

Playa Zipolite, Oaxaca, Southern Mexico, on the Pacific Ocean. A little bit about my favorite little get-away on this small world of ours.

Zipolite, a sweaty 30-minute walk west from Puerto Angel, brings you to Playa Zipolite and another world. The feeling here is 1970's - Led Zep, Marley, and scruffy gringos.

A long, long time ago, Zipolite beach was usually visited by the Zapotecans...who made it a magical place. They came to visit Zipolite to meditate, or just to rest.

Recently, this beach has begun to receive day-trippers from Puerto Angel and Puerto Escondido, giving it a more TOURISTY feel than before.

Most people come here for the novelty of the nude beach, yoga, turtles, seafood, surf, meditation, vegetarians, discos, party, to get burnt by the sun, or to see how long they can stretch their skinny budget.

I post WWW Oaxaca, Mexico, Zipolite and areas nearby information. Also general budget, backpacker, surfer, off the beaten path, Mexico and beyond, information.

REMEMBER: Everyone is welcome at Zipolite.

ivan

Wednesday, October 16, 2013

The Kitchen or Cocina Posted on October 10, 2013

The Kitchen or Cocina

The kitchen has to be in the top 1 or 2 rooms one would pick as a favorite. It is mine. I have no man caves so it is the kitchen for me.
First off there is equipment (the garage is not really part of the house and does not count guys). We have blenders, coffee makers, coffee grinders, Cuisinarts, vacuum seal machines, colorful Kitchenaid or otherwise mixers, shiny woks, pots and pans and all kinds of knives, spoons and forks not to mention wine and beer openers etc. I mean the kitchen is a place to marvel at technology (forget about the computer station). And our kitchen comes with a pretty woman who spends most of her waking hours in that room (lucky me).
The Mexican Kitchen Can Be a Real Social Meeting Place – BYOP – Bring Your Own Paddle
We have a park bench in our Casita kitchen. A seat to watch the action and the pretty lady in motion. Better than a seat in the park I would say. I spend time on that bench just marveling at the devices and the processes that go into preparing more than a 1000 meals a year.
I am the first to admit some of our accommodations are not the glitzy fancy type. We have no bidets or sparkling porcelain tubs or grand pianos. We do not have television screens the size of the one at the drive-in. Things are pretty simple around our houses. But we do make an effort to have the tools and provide the space for where food production occurs.
If there is any one room that will show you are no longer in a 1st world country it is the Mexican kitchen. I mean a bedroom is pretty much a bedroom as is a bathroom, living room or den. You will probably not see a molcajete, a tortilla press, or a tall bottle of propane in that U.S. kitchen of yours – no not likely. The sinks and cabinets are usually simpler. Mexican kitchens usually appear more utilitarian (we are discounting Tancho’s kitchen here) I have yet to see a store selling Wolf stoves or Sub-Zero refrigerators.
We have seen wood fired cooking areas and baby chickens scurrying about. We saw one more or less outdoor kitchen area with a large cement tank/sink that served not only to wash dishes but as a watering trough for the family horse. I kid you not.
We have been challenging our fellow Bloggers in our Mexico or Bust community of Blogs to showing their living condition. No holding back – even the laundry and bathroom did not/will not escape our peering eyes.
The Calypso Couple have four very modest houses. We will confine our kitchen exploration to the casa we are currently at in Xico, Veracruz. Ask us again when we are in Puerto in a few weeks.
Background: We have owned this Casita for 8 years or so. For the first 4 or 5 years we utilized the kitchen built into a 9 foot Lance truck bed camper which rests comfortably on Mexican dirt here in Xico for these many years. In the beginning there were three of us – mostly living in that camper. We eventually restored a couple of rooms in a Casita. We now have an office/bedroom/living room upstairs and a new, by a couple of years, kitchen that we built on a deck we had built when we first moved in.
If you have been following along for a while you watched and read about the cocina construction.  It is in here amongst the many 100’s of 1000′s of words. Check back in May and June of 2011 by going to the right – look in the monthly archives.
But alas here is our cocina/dining room; well kitchen with park bench is more accurate:
If you look carefully you will see a propane gas tank in the corner. Under a Silpat mat we have a one burner induction stove top. Then we have a two-burner propane gas stove-top – very crude, but functional. Also note the mocajete – not often seen in a U.S. kitchen where as nearly all have and use one here in the Hood. Guacamole made in a mocajete – mm –  you will never go back to a mixing bowl.
Induction Stove Top, Gas Two-burner and even a French Press
Nothing fancy in the sink area – kind of upscale for the Hood at that.
Señora Calypso at the sink.
We have refrigeration in the Hood
You might have noticed the refridge is hiked up on blocks – probably seldom seen in First World kitchens. Here it is a matter of possible water rising up on the floor and the fact that Mexican appliances are made for short people – there are none of those little people at the Calypso Casa.
Plastic shelving as opposed to lovely wood cabinets is a necessity in a humid area. At the beach the hinges will rust to needing replacing in a year. Air flow and plastic instead of metal wherever possible.
We do have a microwave with convection baking, nearly all the tools that a modern U.S. kitchen might have – just resting on a cement floor in the tropical jungles of Veracruz, Mexico and stacked on plastic shelves. We even have a recently added Keurig coffee maker.
So OK our cocina is pretty simple and definitely sports a Mexicano flavor. Now we are sending out the challenge to show us your food processing work stations. This has already been in discussion (with my ongoing threatening). So Laurie has put in her two cents HERE (she is such a good sport) and Felipe reminded me that his cocina has been on the Internet for viewing for several years. I think it really represents what a gringo can put together here in Mexico when money is no object – I mean wow – just keep me out of there when I have a hang-over!
Our water bottle sits on the floor – this does shame me.
And Felipe claims he doesn’t even know what a Wolf Range is – woof, woof! But then we have not seen Tancho’s Kitchen Kastle – because if memory serves me – it probably cannot be topped – Tancho?
Hopefully many of you will contribute a photo(s) of your Mexican (or otherwise) kitchens.  We will all be closer when we know where everyone is during the commercials.
Stay Tuned!

It Must Be a Guy Thing

A fellow Blogger providing Mexico driving tips, in reply to my suggestion of having a GPS device onboard, stated they use a map and don’t need a GPS – further that it must be a guy thing. This person who shall remain unnamed (obviously a woman) went on to explain that with the use of a map and then hiring a taxi driver to guide her through busy Mexican cities totally eliminates the suggested need for a Global Positioning System.
Need Directions? Just Ask!
The first thing that came to mind is the  risks involved for a woman driving alone or any novice  Mexico travelers to stop in dangerous border towns and even further into Mexico to hire a cab driver to lead them through the maze of these cities – incredible naiveté to dismiss a GPS for that method of getting around. But that is just the most obvious there is so much more.
Back in the early 80’s your escritor was paid a lot of money to explain to business owners large and small why they needed a computer(s). Most realized a possible small advantage with the help of spreadsheets and databases that could perhaps better help manage their accounting information. But few realized the incredible sales and marketing tool a computer system could be even then. I explained the potential; the why and how to implementing the new technology. This was way before Amazon or Ebay or computer dating; it was before even the Internet.
So now my fellow Blogger suggests that there is no need for a GPS because they have a map. I felt like I had just been dialed back in time. Those many folks that were content with their manual double entry accounting, columnar  bookkeeping, declaring that was totally sufficient and they didn’t need no stinkin’ computer – oh my! Like I wrote, I was paid a lot of money to show them the error in their ways.
A Global Positioning System is one of the most forward thinking and useful computer technologies today. It has literally changed and marked the landscape of travel, brick and mortar outlets and even keeping our kids safe and traceable.
The GPS system is so much more than a mere collection of virtual maps. Need a hardware store, bank, Chinese restaurant or to know where the nearest Costco or Sam’s Club is in a town. Want to know how far to the next rest stop or how many hours or miles or kilometers to a certain destination and how many and where the next gas station is? Or need to find fast a hospital or police station? These are but a few of the many advantages of being able to refer to a GPS or GPS capable iPhone or tablet.
GPS technology can open your car door or call 911 for you from outer space.
In some cities our GPS will advise us about traffic slowdowns and provide alternate routes even before we reach the problem area. This in real time. In Las Vegas we were able to input any address public or private and have the GPS lead us right to the door with voice commands – never had to take our eyes off the road or pull over to check on a map (which wasn’t about to have personal addresses in any case.
In Xalapa, the capitol of Veracruz, a city of 600,000 made up of a maze of streets we were looking for a computer store. Our GPS not only was a map guide, it had a street level view of the store front which was very obscure. We saved a bunch of time with the visual aid.
Senora Calypso and I managed to meander through the city of Oaxaca at 1 AM trying to get to the south end of town. We might still be driving those streets had it not been for the GPS assist.
I challenge anyone to try and find a map that will get you through and around Tampico, Tamaulipas, one of the more dangerous cities in Mexico. The turns and trail to get from the north end to the south end of town is unbelievably complicated and fear instilling. Our GPS leads us through without missing a turn or twist – quite amazing really. More calming than a couple of stiff drinks (and much safer for continued driving).
We came to rely on our Garmin GPS any time we were in the car in Las Vegas – even when you knew exactly where you were going. There could be traffic snarls right then or seeing the estimated time of arrival was helpful. There are about four or five Sam’s Clubs – which one is closest? The GPS sorts and lists nearest to farthest.  I suppose I could get a ruler and look up the addresses in a phone-book, and then decide; or just check in with the GPS in a matter of seconds – It will indicate the distance and time to each storefront.
So if you are running around with a glove box full of maps and misguided confidence that that is all you need – Please get with the 21st Century and buy a GPS or learn how to get this information on your cell phone or tablet computer device. Embrace this technology because it is not going away any time soon. Coming to Mexico? It is simple; a GPS may be  a guy thing – But don’t leave home without it!
Stay Tuned!

Lila Downs - La Cumbia del Mole (English) with/con Zion/Zion :) thank you Gracias, zion. ivan



Lila Downs - La Cumbia del Mole (English)

Headlong (promo video, 1991)

queenofficial has uploaded These Are The Days Of Our Lives (promo video, 1991)

queenofficial has uploaded Heaven For Everyone (promo video, 1995)

The Show Must Go On (promo video, 1991)

I'm Going Slightly Mad (promo video, 1991)

Innuendo (promo video, 1991)

WAVE OF THE DAY: PUERTO ESCONDIDO, FRIDAY OCTOBER 11TH

Tuesday, October 15, 2013

Huatulco airport to Zipolite

opperwezen avatar
Oct 14, 2013 3:04 AM
Posts:  1
Huatulco airport to Zipolite
Hi all,

Does anybody know the smartest way to get from Huatulco Airport to Zipolite by public transport? I guess have to take a bus to Pochutla, hop off on the intersection between the 200 and 175 and then take something to Zipolite. Question is, is there a busstand at the intersection or is it smarter to go the central bus stop in Pochutla? 

Thanks in advance for your replies,

Sander

PS: how do i know which taxi collectivo to flag down at the intersection? do they have a destination sign in the front?
Boomer43 avatar
Oct 14, 2013 1:55 PM
Posts:  104
1
Huatulco to Puerto Angel by bus. P.A. to Zipolite by collectivo.
Jaime
mclarjh avatar
Oct 15, 2013 7:31 AM
Posts:  1,295
2
I guess have to take a bus to Pochutla, hop off on the intersection between the 200 and 175 and then take something to Zipolite

I remember taking a second-class bus on this route, I believe it was SUR, but there may be another carrier, and even colectivo vans; my guess is 30 MXN for the trip. 

is there a busstand at the intersection or is it smarter to go the central bus stop in Pochutla?

When you take second-class transport, wherever you're standing is a bus stop of sorts (intersections and topes are obvious choices as vehicles must slow down). I suggest waiting at the corner. I remember camionetas, that is pickup trucks with sheltered boxes, transporting passengers in both directions to the playas; anyone of them will take you to Zipolite; my guess is 20 MXN.

Photos from Geo Bal's post in Zipolite







CUMBIA DEL MOLE (English Version)

... the best in zipolite!

Araceli Diaz Gomez
Araceli Diaz Gomez6:28pm Oct 15
El alquimista... de lo mejor en zipolite!!!

REAPETURA, WEDNESDAY 16, OCT. ! Tropical drinks, beer and of course NACHOS!! Wednesdays-Saturday 6pm-12am


Judith Frey
Judith FreyOct 15 8:00 am
REAPETURA, WEDNESDAY 16, OCT. Tropical drinks, beer and of course NACHOS!! 
Wednesdays-Saturday 6pm-12am 
we are

Monday, October 14, 2013

Rave in Zipolite is the Picture of the Week ....

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Suspension points2:42pm Oct 14
Rave in Zipolite is the Picture of the week in Points Suspensivos. Journalism focused on tourism and culture. Visit our website.
Photography week
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Report timely, accurate and objectively to the general importance of news value ...


I’m Giving Up (And Why That’s A Good Thing!) by paradise

New post on This Way To Paradise

I’m Giving Up (And Why That’s A Good Thing!)

by paradise

Giving Up

I've only been in Mexico a month, and already, it is changing me.  I am giving up.  I am giving up a sense of control, the type A personality that I had let cover up my real type B personality of calm, of creativity, of letting things fall where they may.  Back in the US, I owned a house, had a full-time job, plus did side social media work, and somewhere fit in traveling and writing this blog. How did I do this?  By squeezing in as many activities as I could do in a day.  There were no free moments of sitting in the sun to let it hit my face (Ok, I lived in Portland, so I could have had all the free time in the world, and that would never have happened).  Everything was scheduled, planned, and organized.

In Mexico, you can only plan one thing to happen per day.  Things just take longer.  There is no calling the cable company to set up your wi-fi.  You must go in person.  If you need to pay your bills, you go to the utility company and you wait in line.  There is no mailing a check or paying online.  There is no room for type A personalities here.  There is only a learning to be.  A learning to be in each moment, where you take the time to listen to the morning doves, the roosters crowing, the donkeys braying to welcome the morning.

There are two sayings that you will hear often in Mexico.  One is "No problemo."  You will hear "no problemo" no matter what you ask for, even if you ask for the man you are speaking with to lasso the moon for you.  The Mexican people do not like to disappoint, and so if you ask for something, they will promise it.

The other phrase that you will hear is "No se preocupe", which means "Don't worry."  They will use this phrase when the thing they promised you is going terribly wrong.  Meanwhile, while you (I) have worry written all over your (my) face, they will look like they are having the best day of their lives.  And they are.  Because they know a little secret.  In the end, it always works out.  They are great at remembering this. This is the beautiful thing the people here are teaching me.  And this is why I'm giving up the old me that never really was me.  The one who worried because she was addicted to that feeling.  She was comfortable with that feeling.  And she forgot how to trust.

The Story

I have had many adventures in learning this since being here, but the greatest one is the story of the mattress.  I found a long-term apartment to move into, and the landlord agreed to buy a new mattress. The only thing is I would need to be the one to go pick it out and arrange for the delivery.  I was pretty proud of myself as I managed to do all of this in Spanish.

Then, delivery day came.  What I did not realize is that the man who brought the mattress and its platform, didn't work for the mattress company, but was a taxi driver.  He came  bringing the mattress and heavy platform all by himself.  I pointed upwards to the second floor (which is more like on the 3rd floor because of the very high ceilings). He looked at the thick mattress and the narrow stairway and began shaking his head. Things were not looking good.  Instead of a "no problemo", I heard the words, "I don't think it will fit."  "Can we try?", I begged.  (Me, who won't give up until I have tried every way possible.) Ok, "no problemo.", he says.  Just the words I had hoped to hear.

We struggled, but we did get the mattress up, and now there was just the heavy wooden platform to be dealt with.  The maid was shaking her head backing forth, saying "¡buena suerte!" (good luck), over and over.  The taxi driver just shook his head.  I grabbed one end willing to at least try.  We barely managed to get it halfway up the stairs (it was SO heavy), and then the driver said he needed to go move his truck.  He left me holding the mattress platform!  I was there for about ten minutes while the maid kept trying to stack furniture on the stairs, so I wouldn't have to hold it any longer.  Nothing was working.  My arms were shaking.  She kept going and looking outside and just shaking her head.  I realized that he probably wasn't coming back and stood there trying to figure out what to do.  If I let go, the whole thing would just come crashing down the stairs.

Well, he did come back, but at that point I could no longer lift it any further.  I was worn out.  I told him we needed "dos hombres" to do this job.  He told ME to go find help.  "Ok," I stammered.  "No problemo." (I'm learning).  I went to the street and yelled out "Ayúdame" to a guy passing on a scooter. I pointed inside. The taxi driver explained in Spanish that we needed help. The scooter guy shook his head and looked at us like we were crazy and drove off.  I finally did get a guy who was passing by to help.  They tried for half an hour and never could get it to the top.

We then realized that the queen size mattress fit just fine on the old double size platform.  We made it work.  However, the taxi driver was unwilling to take the old mattress or the platform back to the mattress store.  He said he had other jobs to do and would come back in an hour.  He never returned.  I called the mattress store, and they sent "dos hombres" this time.  I somehow talked (in Spanish!) one of them into giving the old mattress to his brother, and they took the platform back to the store.

It took all day, but everything worked out.  I had a new mattress, and so did someone else who really needed one.  I never felt stressed.  (The old me that wasn't me would have been.)  In fact, I found myself laughing about the situation.  I felt grateful for the help of the stranger who tried so hard to make things work.  And that's why I'm giving up.  I'm giving up struggle, and worry, and fear.  When things aren't working, I'm going to remember "No se preocupe", and remember that they are working out....exactly like they are meant to be.

Val Dawson www.thiswaytoparadise.com
paradise | October 14, 2013 at 1:45 pm | URL: http://wp.me/p359Wl-QI

Sunday, October 13, 2013

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Amazon.com: Travel Wild Huatulco: David Warth, Lin Sutherland ...
Huatulco is fast becoming another sought after Mexican destination but this time the destination is practicing a method of developing with sustainable tourism in ...
www.amazon.com/Travel-Wild-Huatulco.../B00BPU4ZAU




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Huatulco is fast becoming another sought after Mexican destination but this time the destination is practicing a method of developing with sustainable tourism in mind.Flying in over the lush jungles of Huatulco you marvel and the ongoing green hills, here is an adventurer's playground.Lin naturally loves to explore natural wonders ...
  • Directed by: David Warth
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Small loans, big smiles in Mexico's Oaxaca The Seattle Times OAXACA, Mexico — We'd just stepped into a farm shed with bamboo-stick walls when the Mexican weather gods decided to give full meaning to the term “rainy ... See all stories on this topic »

Small loans, big smiles in Mexico's OaxacaThe Seattle Times
OAXACA, Mexico — We'd just stepped into a farm shed with bamboo-stick walls when the Mexican weather gods decided to give full meaning to the term “rainy ...
See all stories on this topic »

10/13/13 

Small loans, big smiles inMexico’s Oaxaca | Travel | The Seattle Times

www.seattletimes.com/html/travel/2022002862_oaxacamicrofinancetourxml.html 1/4

Winner of Nine Pulitzer Prizes
Travel / Outdoors

Originally published October 12, 2013 at 7:04 PM | Page modified October 12, 2013 at 7:16 PM

Small loans, big smiles in Mexico’s Oaxaca
A microfinance nonprofit offers tours to meet Mexican women in their small businesses — and
your tour dollars go to new loans.

By Brian J. Cantwell

Seattle Times travel writer

OAXACA, Mexico — We’d just stepped into

a farm shed with bamboo-stick walls when
the Mexican weather gods decided to give full
meaning to the term “rainy season.” As a
September deluge boomed like a kettledrum
on the low metal roof, Anastasia Soriana
Martínez, the smallest and most serene person
in the shed, introduced us to her pig.
Over the aural onslaught, our group of gringo
tourists was just barely able to hear that this
pink and white swine sloshing unconcernedly
in a rapidly widening mud pit beyond the
shed’s eaves was Martínez’s latest business
endeavor. Her source of capital? A microloan
from En Vía, the local foundation that had
brought us on this visit.

BRIAN J. CANTWELL / THE SEATTLE TIMES
Juana Chávez Ruiz and some of the tapestries made by her and her family with the help of micro-­­financing in Mexico’s Teotitlán del Valle.

In fact, 100 percent of the 650 pesos — about

$50 U.S. — that I and three other U.S. visitors
had each paid for this six-hour tour would
finance more business loans to women such as
Martínez in small towns across the Oaxaca
Valley in southern Mexico.
In this next-to-poorest Mexican state (after neighboring Chiapas), loans go to endeavors such as
weaving works, neighborhood shops, candle-making for local churches, and agricultural projects
such as this.
We were visiting Martínez in her farming community of San Sebastián Abasolo, about a half-hour
outside of Oaxaca City. As the downpour quickly turned dirt streets to muddy streams, we looked
out at tethered burros with drooping, dripping ears, while next to us under the shed’s cover a
skinny shepherd-mix hound with soulful brown eyes snoozed atop a pungent mountain of seed10/13/13 Small loans, big smiles inMexico’s Oaxaca | Travel | The Seattle Times
seattletimes.com/html/travel/2022002862_oaxacamicrofinancetourxml.html 2/4
garlic ready for planting when the earth dried.
The garlic? Also financed by an interest-free loan from En Vía.
Success without the sharks
Carlos Topete, director of Instituto Cultural Oaxaca, a language school catering to foreign
visitors, and Emily Berens, a U.S. citizen active in managing nonprofits, co-founded the
organization in 2010 to assist local women who live in poverty and for whom traditional banks are
not a viable financing source.
En Vía aims to offer better options than established microfinance lenders, some of whom charge
interest rates of 200 percent and more, and informal moneylenders — sometimes called loan
sharks in the United States.
Key to En Vía’s formula is its symbiosis with cultural tourism. It draws money from visitors like
my group — including a medical researcher from Boston, a university professor from England, a
state worker from Sacramento, Calif. — eager to meet local people in their homes and businesses
and to learn about their way of life.
If tour-goers buy a $50 hand-woven rug to take home, with the happy memory of befriending the
person who made it, that’s just gravy — or, you might say, salsa — for all concerned.
The tourist dollar goes directly to people who can most benefit from it, Topete told me, “and the
traveler has the feeling that even if they don’t buy, they leave something behind.”
The tours are “an empowering thing” for the locals, added Helen Lyttelton, a program volunteer
from New Zealand. “People who come are interested and ask questions and put them on a bit of a
pedestal.”
If smiles measure success: Every woman we visited was happy to see us.
Lunching with a client
In the Zapotec town of Teotitlán del Valle, we lunched on tasty local specialties such as tlayudas —
sort of an oversized taco in a pan-crisped tortilla — at Dulizún Cafe, which represents a microloan
dream come true for proprietor Teresa Lopez Montaño.
With a strong indigenous population, Teotitlán, like almost three-quarters of municipalities in the
state of Oaxaca, is a semiautonomous community with traditional ways of governance.
Local committees rotate responsibility for everything from road maintenance to putting flowers
in the church. In exchange, residents pay little or no federal income tax. Local pride shows in the
faces of people like Lopez Montaño.
Fittingly, “Dulizún” means “our house” in Zapotec, the still-spoken language of a people whose
history reaches back at least 2,500 years in this valley, as chronicled by fabulous archaeological
sites rivaling the neighboring Maya. The cafe fronts the home Lopez Montaño shares with her
husband, Manuel Bazan Chávez, his mother, Enadina Bazan Chávez, and her mother, Juana
Chávez Ruiz.
Both Teresa, in her 30s, and Juana, almost 80, have put microloans to use, first for the family
weaving business, a trade that dates to 500 B.C. in this town, and then to add the cafe.10/13/13 Small loans, big smiles inMexico’s Oaxaca | Travel | The Seattle Times
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It doubles as a gallery for the rugs handmade by almost everyone in their extended family.
Juana is also developing a chocolate-making business, using microloans to buy cocoa beans from
Chiapas. She makes hockey-puck like discs of aromatic chocolate with a tingle of cinnamon that
are dissolved in hot water and milk to make one of southern Mexico’s signature beverages, to
which I became pretty much addicted in two weeks there.
Between rain showers in a softly steaming courtyard, with a rooster crowing nearby, Juana’s smile
radiated through the mist as she explained to our group how she makes red dye from cochineal,
insects that live on prickly-pear cactuses.
Pulling one from a potted cactus, she squished it between thumb and finger to show the crimson
color, as if she’d pricked herself with a needle.
“Her mother taught her how to make chocolate and her father taught her how to weave,”
translated Kim Groves, an energetic young Australian in red Converse high-tops who is one of En
Vía’s few paid employees.
“Right now her cocoa beans are out, and she wants another loan to buy more. They come in 100-
kilo sacks and she’ll buy a half sack for about 1,500 pesos.” (That’s a little more than $100 U.S.,
about the starting range for an En Vía loan.)
Only after initial loans are repaid does any of the money go to En Vía’s overhead, which is
relatively low (Groves’ “office” is a table on the courtyard terrace at Instituto Cultural Oaxaca).
To boost the success rate, every new loan recipient must take a three-week course in basic
business practices and money management. Free English-language lessons are offered to help
them interact with visitors.
Stocking the shelves
Piled after lunch into En Vía’s new 12-passenger van, purchased recently through online
crowdsourcing, we climbed like a mountain goat up the steep cobbles of Calle Emilio Zapata,
where the town bumps up against spiky emerald-hued foothills.
We stopped at an unlit brick tienda with no sign out front, where Silvia Pérez González opens her
shop from 7 a.m. to 11 p.m. to serve neighbors who pop in and out with cuckoo-clock regularity.
Calling her inventory modest is like calling a sand grain small. A shelf held one bottle of shampoo.
Three bags of Big Nix, a local snack food, hung from a rack. An open burlap bag on the floor
bulged with dried corn. There was Tang — a few packets. Fresh eggs. Twelve tomatoes.
Not a lot, but to neighbors she’s closer than the competition a few blocks away. With her next
loan, she hopes to add soft drinks, soup noodles and salt.
Her quiet smile spoke of pride and dignity.
“She had started by selling shoes and taking orders for catalogs, and her customers asked, ‘Don’t
you sell other things?’ ” Groves translated. “She felt that because she didn’t finish primary school
she didn’t think she could do this.”
A $100 loan, thanks in part to a few gringo tourists, proved her wrong.
Brian J. Cantwell: bcantwell@seattletimes.com. Blogging at blogs.seattletimes.com/​-10/13/13 Small loans, big smiles inMexico’s Oaxaca | Travel | The Seattle Times

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