7 Tips for Budget Travel in Cancun and the Mayan Riviera JUN 29 Posted by TC

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7 Tips for Budget Travel in Cancun and the Mayan Riviera

JUN 29

Posted by TC

You can smell the sea from the Cancun airport. No more stuffy airplane, no more boring job in your cold hometown. Welcome to paradise – the Mayan Riviera. Welcome to Cancun.

The Mayan Riviera is a jungle coastline of white-sand beaches, ancient ruins, enormous aquatic theme parks, traditional colonial towns, and clear-water cenotes, freshwater sinkholes and caves in the flat limestone sponge of the Yucatan peninsula.

The great Mayan ruins of Chichen Itza, one of the new Seven Wonders of the World, are only a few hours from Cancun on good highways. In the other direction, rocky Tulum rivals Chichen Itza with its location on limestone cliffs overlooking the sky-blue Caribbean.

You can stay at an all-inclusive resort right on the beach in Cancun, take guided tours to the ruins, and drink margaritas by the pool all day. You’ll have a great, relaxing vacation. But you won’t experience the real Mexico. Not even close.

How could you? Why would you venture into downtown Cancun for real tacos when you have a free buffet in your luxury hotel? Why would you travel inland to Valladolid when the beach party starts at 10 a.m. every day?

Independent budget travel in the Mayan Riviera is safe, easy, and cheap – even if you don’t speak Spanish. Here are a few tips to help you plan your trip.

Tip 1: Getting to Cancun from the airport

If you stay in a resort, they will probably arrange transportation from the airport. If you want to do it on your own, the cheapest way to get from the airport to downtown Cancun is on the ADO bus.

At the time of writing, it leaves every half hour until 11:30 p.m., takes about 30 minutes, and costs 62 pesos ($5 USD).

After you pass immigration, before you exit the airport, look for the ADO booth among all the booths for rental cars and hotels. Ask for centro (downtown). Then as you leave the airport, take a right and walk toward the bus area.

The bus takes you to the ADO station downtown, and from there you can walk to cheap hotels.

There are also direct buses from the airport to Playa del Carmen. They leave every half hour, take about one hour, and cost 140 pesos ($12 USD).

Tip 2: Choosing a Hotel

You can find budget hotels all around the ADO bus station in downtown Cancun, or a few blocks from the beach in Playa del Carmen.

Downtown Cancun is a 20-30 minute bus ride from the Hotel Zone, the beach and all the resorts. By staying downtown you can get better prices on everything, including hotels, restaurants, and souvenirs.

Give yourself some time to walk around. Many hotels have the prices posted behind the front desk. If not, you will have to ask, and don’t expect everyone to speak English here, though they should figure out what you want. Bring a pad of paper and a pencil so they can write down prices for you.

It’s a good idea to look at the room. Try out the bed. Check the water pressure. Turn on the air conditioner. Is it too weak, or too loud? Some hotels have kitchens, some have a computer for guests to use, some have tourist information. Compare.

If you want to stay more than four or five days, try asking for a discount.

Outside of high season (around Christmas and New Year’s, the week before Easter, and late July/August), you should be able to get a decent room from as low as 250 pesos ($20 USD) to 500 pesos ($40 USD) per night.

During high season, everything gets more expensive, and I recommend making reservations beforehand.

Tip 3: Choosing a restaurant with authentic food

In general, you find three kinds of restaurants in the Mayan Riviera: foreign restaurants that serve burgers, pizza, or sushi; Mexican restaurants geared towards foreign tourists; and real Mexican restaurants, geared toward Mexican tourists or locals.

Beware the Mexican food in big, touristy restaurants on the beach. Mexicans tend to think that foreigners don’t like spicy food, so they dumb it down. If a tired basket of nachos sits on every table and the salsa tastes like marinara sauce, then you are in the wrong place.

Seek out real Mexican food in restaurants patronized by locals. Some tip-offs are: the menu painted on the wall or written on a dry-erase board, a big flat grill and the cook up front, bright lighting, very simple décor, plain white walls, and even a little peeling paint or exposed concrete.

But the most important way to know if the food is authentic and clean is to look at how crowded the restaurant is. If it’s packed, it’s probably good. If it’s empty, it’s empty for a reason. The best way to avoid food poisoning is to never eat in an empty restaurant.

It’s good to ask for suggestions, like at the front desk of your hotel, but explain that you want something real. Otherwise you will be directed to a restaurant with the “Americanized” Mexican food they think foreigners like.

Some good places to find authentic food are Parque las Palapas in Cancun, the Bazar Municipal in Valladolid, and smaller, “hole-in-the-wall” restaurants two blocks or more from the beach in Playa del Carmen.

Tip 4: Communicating with the locals

Many people speak English in this part of Mexico, especially those who work in tourism. But once you get off the beaten path, you’ll need a little Spanish.

Whether the person speaks English or not, it’s polite to start the conversation in Spanish. Start with one of these at the right time of day:

Buenos días (good morning)

Buenas tardes (good afternoon; used until after sundown)

Buenas noches (good night; a greeting, not a goodbye)

Then say ¿Habla usted inglés? (Do you speak English?) and No hablo español(I don’t speak Spanish).

That’s easy enough, right? Just 5 phrases.

After than, learn more Spanish. Mexicans are friendly and patient, which is good for the foreigner struggling with Spanish.

Tip 5: Visit archeological zones on your own

The two most common forms of public transportation in the Mayan Riviera are buses andcolectivos, big white passenger vans.

From the ADO bus station downtown, buses go all over Mexico, including Valladolid, Chichen Itza, Merida, Chetumal, Palenque, and beyond.

Use the website (www.ado.com.mx) to get an idea of prices and routes, and then buy your tickets at the bus station. Most workers at bus stations speak English, but just in case, write down the destination and the time you want.

For example, here is the schedule from the airport to downtown Cancun:

If you are on a budget (and speak Spanish or have a helper), ask at the station for a second-class bus. They can be much cheaper than ADO and go to the same destinations. Be sure to ask how long the trip will take, and compare it to ADO, because the second-class bus could take much longer.

For points south, like Playa del Carmen and Tulum, take a colectivo. The ones for Playa del Carmen leave from just outside the ADO station. They are cheaper and faster and leave more frequently than the bus.

You can take a guided tour to Tulum and Chichen Itza, and though they will explain everything in English, they may rush you through it. If you go on your own, you can get there early and have lots of time to explore.

For example, inside the archeological zone at Tulum is one of the most beautiful and iconic beaches in Mexico. If you go on your own, you can stay and swim as long as you want.

If you have the time, I recommend staying in Valladolid before going to Chichen Itza. Valladolid is a beautiful colonial town full of local culture. By staying in Valladolid, you can have several hours at Chichen Itza in the morning before all the tour groups from Cancun arrive.

Colectivos go to Chichen Itza from several parking lots a block or two from the ADO station near the central park in Valladolid.

Tip 6: Safety concerns

The good news is that the Mayan Riviera is one of the safest regions in Mexico. However, it’s a good idea to ask at your hotel what the neighborhood is like, especially if it’s safe to walk at night, and if there are any places to avoid.

Besides that, regular common sense for travel applies: Don’t wear expensive jewelry, don’t pull out large wads of cash in public, keep your wallet in your front pocket, don’t let your purse or camera bag out of your sight, and don’t look at a map in public – take it indoors.

Tip 7: Buy my guide to Cancun and the Mayan Riviera

Shameless plug: These tips and many more are explained in detail in my Cancun and Mayan Riviera 5-Day Itinerary, available on Unanchor.com and the kindle version on Amazon.com.

The guide is for the independent traveler who likes the beach, but also wants some culture. Besides saving a lot of money, you will:

• Have two full days on two gorgeous beaches: Cancún and Playa del Carmen.
• Explore two Mayan ruins: Chichén Itzá and Tulum.
• Dip your toe into Yucatán culture in Valladolid, a small colonial town in central Yucatán.
• Swim, snorkel or scuba dive in the clear, freshwater Dos Ojos cenote.
• Eat what Mexicans eat: seafood, tacos, and Yucatán specialties like panuchos and salbutes.
• Shop, party, get tan, and learn some Spanish, history and culture. And, if time permits, venture farther into Mexico and Central America.

The guide’s full appendix includes information on hotels, public transportation, restaurants, culture, and Spanish phrases. You’ll save more than the $4.99 price the first time you follow my advice on a bus, restaurant, or cenote.

This part of Mexico may be the most popular, but in some ways the least understood. I try to remedy this with my modest guide.

Click the book for more info

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Monarch Butterflies in Mexico

Every autumn, one of the most spectacular natural phenomena can be observed in the forested mountains west of Mexico City: wintering Monarch Butterflies.

Learn about these marvelous insects, their 3,000 mile journey from the US and Canada, and how you can experience the sight and presence of the wintering Monarch at one of the butterfly sanctuaries. If you are traveling in Mexico between November and March, this is one of the most rewarding outdoor experiences you will encounter.

• The Monarch Butterfly
• The Monarch Winter Migration
• The Monarch's Reproduction & Journey Back North
• Monarch Sanctuaries in Mexico
• Practical Information
• Monarch Butterfly Trip Organizers

The Monarch Butterfly

The Monarch Butterfly, in latin known as Danaus Plexippus, is native to the North American tropics. An adult wingspan will reach about 4.5 inches (11 centimeters) and weight one gram or less.

Milkweed plants provide an essential food source for their caterpillars. The milkweed contains a chemical that is toxic to many species, but which Monarchs can, uniquely, assimilate and store in the cells of its outer skin. This in turn provides the butterfly with a powerful defense 'shield' against potential predators and thus assists the insects in their 3,000 mile journey south, to winter in the mountains west of Mexico City.

Adult Monarchs live only for 3-4 weeks. However, one of the mysteries of these insects is their capability to breed what has been termed by scientists as a 'Methuselah' generation. This is a very special generation of butterfly, born once a year near the end of the summer months. These butterflies can live up to 9 months and this generation will not breed in the north: instead, the butterflies store up nectar from flowers and use this as fuel to enables them to migrate south for the winter.

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The Monarch Winter Migration

Migrating Monarch butterflies travel in colonies of about 20 million insects and will travel between 80-120 nautical miles per day, depending on the wind and other weather conditions. The butterflies take advantage of ascending warm-air currents, gliding in the thrust they provide, needing only to flap their wings when the air current diminishes a little or when they change their flight path. This technique uses their energy efficiently, and physically enables them to undertake the long journey.

The butterflies travel only by day and will roost overnight, usually on the branches and trunks of trees. You can learn more about this truly amazing migration here (USDA Forestry Service).

By around mid November each year, the Monarch butterflies will begin arriving in Mexico. They settle in the oyamel fir tree forests which are situated in the eastern perimeter of the Mexican state of Michoacan, also bordering the state of Mexico, in the forested mountains west of Mexico City.

Once here, the butterflies cluster on the tree trunks and remain in the area for the winter. As the sun heats the day, some of the butterflies will flutter in the forests and return to the tree trunks when the air cools.

YouTube: Monarch Butterflies

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The Monarch's Reproduction & Journey Back North

In February, when the temperatures begin to rise, the Monarchs begin their mating rituals. The females will lay over 400 eggs each on the fine leaves of the asclepias and afterwards gather nectar from the flowers, the fuel source that provides the energy for them to make the journey back north.

By mid March, the same Methuselah generation of butterflies that arrived here in November will begin fluttering in a bid to catch the spring time's ascending air currents which will propel them on their journey back across the border to the United States and Canada.

Their short-life progeny, which begin life in the mountains of Mexico, will also begin the return journey back to the United States and Canada, in a staged relay covering several generations of butterflies.

The 'great-great grandprogegy' of this year's Methuselah generation will return to Mexico; and although they themselves have never flown south before, they will instinctively know where to fly as it's believed that their sense of direction is passed on to them genetically from their ancestors. Latest research also suggests that the butterflies possess an "inner clock" which enables them navigate by means of the sun's position in the sky.

This remarkable life cycle is manifested by an insect that weighs less than a gram, but who's 'pollinating agent' work plays an enormously important role in our planet's eco system.

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Monarch Sanctuaries in Mexico

The butterflies begin arriving from mid November each year. January and February are the most popular months for visits, as it's during this time that the butterfly population is at its peak.

The sanctuaries are open to the public between 6 a.m. and 6 p.m. seven days a week. Weekends are considerably busier that week days, especially in January and February.

You can visit one of the sanctuaries independently or you can go as part of an organized Monarch Butterflies Tour. Most guided tours visit the El Rosario or Sierra Chincua reserves.

The Mexican government has set up a number of protected sanctuaries within a biosphere reserve to ensure that the important habitats required by the Monarch Butterflies are protected and preserved, while still allowing visitors to witness these remarkable insects and enjoy some of Mexico's most breath-taking landscapes.

The Monarch Butterfly Biosphere Reserve covers an area of over 560 square kilometers (350 square miles) and has been recognized by UNESCO as a World Heritage Site since 2008.

Monarch Butterfly Sanctuaries:

There are four sanctuaries open to the public, two in the state of Michoacan and two others in the state of Mexico. The biosphere is on the eastern edge of the state of Michoacan and crosses into the state of Mexico. The two most frequented sanctuaries are:

El Rosario - Near the town of Ocampo in the state of Michoacan

Sierra Chincua - Near the town of Angangueo in the state of Michoacan

Getting to the Monarch Butterfly Sanctuaries

If you are traveling independently, you can either take a bus or rent a car and drive to the area. Although the Monarch tours are most often marketed as day tours from the colonial city of Morelia or Mexico City, the biosphere is about equidistant between these two cities, making the experience a very long day-trip with a steep hike thrown in for good measure. We recommend an overnight stay at Angangueo if you want to experience the area and the butterflies in the best possible way. See "Accommodation" in the practical information below, for more details.

Getting to El Rosario Reserve

If you are traveling by bus from Mexico City, go the eastern bus terminal (known as Observatorio) and buy tickets on a direct bus to Angangueo, a four hour trip. There are frequent buses from Morelia to Zitacuaro, the third largest city in the state of Michoacan; the journey takes about three hours. From Zitacuaro you can board a local bus north to the town of Ocampo, or take a cab for a fare of approx US$18. From Angangueo, you can take a local bus or a taxi ride (fare approx US$10) southwards, to reach the trail head of El Rosario.

Getting to Sierra Chincua Reserve

This reserve is situated about five miles north from Angangueo (see above), but the trail head is higher and it's a less strenuous climb up the mountain. To get here take a local bus signed to Tlalpujahua, or jump in a cab to get taken to the trail head; the fare is around US$10 each way.

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Practical Information

Whether you travel independently or as part of an organized tour, you will find this practical information valuable to make good preparations for your visit.

When to Go

Depending on the climate and weather conditions, the butterflies may start arriving at the biosphere as early as late October or as late as the third week in November. The best months to visit are January and February, which is when the butterfly population reaches its peak. However, these are also the busiest months so if you go then, we recommend you visit on a week day and avoid the (crowded) weekends.

Weather and Temperature Influences

Monarch Butterflies like and need warm weather, which is why they migrate south. On colder days when cloud and/or rain are present or on days when a cold front has come to pass in the biosphere region (these happen on occasion every year and last from a couple of days to a week) the butterflies will be less active. Keep your eye on the weather reports; if your plans are flexible, try and choose a couple of days when the weather will be warmer, for the best experience. How far up the mountain you have to climb also depends upon the time of year. During the coldest months, (November - January) you will need to hike higher to see the butterflies; as the weather warms up, the butterflies move down the mountain.

Local Accommodation

Day tours are marketed to the butterfly sanctuaries from Mexico City and Morelia; however, they make for very long day trips and with the hike at high altitude can be wearing and make the experience less pleasant. If you are traveling independently, we recommend you take the time to stay in the area, get a good night's rest a small few miles from the trail head, take a hearty breakfast, and experience the butterflies that way. Experienced Tour Operators will include an overnight stay in Angangueo as part of their itinerary. The hotels in Angangueo cannot be easily booked on online; if you don't visit by means of a an organized tour, local hotel names to consider for accommodation include Hotel Don Bruno, Plaza Don Gabino, Cabañas Margarita.

Your Physical Fitness

The bus, car or taxi can lead you to a trail head, but it's uphill on foot from there. Horseback rides are available from Chincua, see below for more details. The trails up the mountain are narrow and steep and you will need to be physically fit to make the journey.

Altitude

The hike can lead you above 3000 meters (nearly 10,000 feet) above sea level: the air is thin and altitude sickness can affect you. Be sure to take water; vendors sell bottled water at the trail head if you forgot to bring your own. Climb slowly, taking regular breaks--and pace yourself. If you ascend too quickly at this altitude, you could easily feint. See Also: Article on Altitude.

Dress for the Occasion

The micro climate on the mountain means that it can be quite cool or quite warm, depending on the day. You may feel cold at the trail head, but quite hot after climbing for an hour. Dress in layers, allowing your body to warm-up or cool-down as required. Also, take a good pair of hiking shoes or boots; footwear that supports your ankles is best. Flat soft shoes, sandals and flip-flops are completely inappropriate.

Afternoon Walking

On warmer afternoons, the butterflies fly low to settled at ground level, seeking the cooler air and moisture. Inevitably, some butterflies get crushed by visiting walkers... watch your step and try to be as gentle as possible on your feet.

Keep to the Trails

You must keep to the trails inside the reserve areas - this minimizes the impact of walkers and visitors on the butterflies. Hiking off the trails is prohibited anywhere inside the biosphere.

Horseback Rides

If you are not up to physical challenge of climbing at this altitude, you may like to consider doing the trail on horseback. El Rosario does not have a horse path, but Sierra Chincua does. Horses can only go so far up the mountain; when the intensity of the butterflies increases, you will need to dismount and complete the journey on foot, so some physical exercise will be involved.

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Monarch Butterfly Trip Organizers

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The circus music of Oaxaca's Pasatono Orquesta is magical PRI's The World Contributor Betto Arcos June 26, 2014 · 1:15 PM EDT

Credit: Daniel Robles

Pasatono Orquesta in the Mixteca region of Oaxaca, Mexico

Maroma is the new album by the band Pasatono Orquesta from Oaxaca, Mexico. Their music is festive with a touch of nostalgia, like the circus they named their most recent album after.

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La Maroma is the name of a circus that's been around for more than a century. Performers travel from village to village.

The travelling circus doesn't include animals or a big top, but has a clown who also serves as a trapeze artist, a comic and a wandering poet. The clown is accompanied by a string band and that's where Pasatono Orquesta comes in.

Pasatono Orquesta reinvent the sounds of an indigenous, village band. They include strings, brass, woodwinds and percussion.

Half of the songs on the band's album include new arragements of this traditional music; the other half are new pieces composed by the band's artistic director Ruben Luengas.

Pasatono Orquesta is made up of nine musicians. I like to think of them as 21st century Oaxacans, who move comforatably between the ancient and modern.

Maroma includes references to Dixieland jazz, melodic lines from Hungary via gypsy caravans as well as Polkas and pasodobles.

I find this video to their song "Obertura Maromero" simply amazing. Enjoy!

Links

Corason: Pasatono Orquesta

• Pasatono Orqeusta on Twitter

Betto Arcos

Betto Arcos is a regular contributor to PRI's The World, covering Latin and world music. He was born in the state of Veracruz in Mexico and now lives in Los Angeles.

San Agustinillo: One Main Road and a Spectacular Beach

By Carole Reedy

Although the distances between pueblos are short when measured in kilometers or hours, a visitor traveling the Oaxacan Coast and touring villages from Puerto Escondido to Huatulco will feel diverse emotions and can anticipate a variety of unique experiences.

San Agustinillo is the place for you if you seek tranquility: a place to lie in a hammock on the beach and read. Or a quiet cove in which to build a sandcastle, a shore on which to stroll, viewing the seagulls, garzas, and pelicans that dot the rocks, sea, and sand. A tiny, quiet café/bar in which to sip an icy beer or margarita…or a strong, hot espresso.

With a local population of about 300, most residents of San Agustinillo are native to the area or hail from other parts of Mexico. A few foreigners have settled here over the years, mostly from France, Spain, Italy, Canada, and Britain. If you stand on the beach, you can see the whole town. One main road with some arteries weaves off into the hills.

Swimming and surfing are the main water sports. There’s also a small library (La Biblioteca de San Agustinillo) located in the Casa Municipal, with a fine selection of books for all ages in several languages. Need something to read? The library lends books to everyone, locals and tourists alike, for no fee.

If that sounds like paradise, it is.

Maximum relaxation often includes massages and yoga. The best masseuse on the coast is Azeneth Aguirre, who offers massages by appointment at her home on Cerro Largo. There are yoga classes given by Mario Corella, owner of Cerro Largo cabañas (a peaceful, remote spot for those seeking pure isolation).

San Agustinillo is a delightful place for children. You won’t find the usual frenetic beach activities like wave runners, jet skis, parachute rides, and bungee jumping. But, here your children can run on the beach, collect shells, splashin the water and learn about turtles and the local flora and fauna. During certain months of the year, there are also workshops and a reading program at the library.

On the main road you’ll find an internet office and, across the road, an interesting Oaxacañan artisan store, Arte Sano, owned and managed by the friendly, delightful, and knowledgeable Isis and Hugo, who can explain the origin of the crafts and the various mezcals they sell. There’s also an ice cream store, various tiendas for incidental items, and here on the main road you’ll find entrances to most of the restaurants and hotels. There are no banks or nail salons in town.

Up the hill a bit (look for the signs), there’s a true Irish bar run by a bonny Irish lass and her son. Called Casa Magica, there’s a pool table, TV with channels for foreign sports, and a nice selection of cocktails. A recent addition to their business, the owners now offer charming, spacious two-story cabañas with kitchens.

Don’t despair if you’re the type of person who yearns for an evening of music, dancing, and socializing after a lazy, quiet day. The swinging villages of Mazunte and Zipolite are a stone’s throw away: Mazunte a mere 1 kilometer from San Agustinillo and Zipolite 3 kilometers.

In these two pueblos the streets don’t roll up after dark as they do in San Agustinillo. Day and night in Zipolite there are activities at El Colibri, a beach bar that attracts many foreign tourists. Owners Kevin Kelley and Gilda Torres know how to entertain, bringing years of experience to the coast, he from Chicago and she from Mexico City. There are major league American football, basketball, and hockey games shown on satellite TV during the appropriate seasons. You’ll also discover live music, chess tournaments, and card games here. This bar is reminiscent of the one in the former TV sitcom Cheers, where “everybody knows your name” after your initial visit. Consider making it your first stop when visiting Zipolite to orient yourself to this beach.

Zipolite also boasts the best restaurant on the Costa Chica, called La Providencia. Owners Javier and Paco (originally from Mexico City) offer a fine dining experience in the magical jungle-like ambiance off the beaten path in Zipolite. Paco creates the sumptuous evening dinners in the kitchen while Javier attends to your every need. Both are amiable, and it is obvious that Providencia is their labor of love. Popular favorite main dishes are the medallions of beef, tuna or dorado, and the jumbo coconut shrimp. The appetizers, soups and desserts are also prepared with the freshest ingredients and most interesting spices. Reservations are suggested during the busy tourist season.
Businesses of the beach: cabañas and restaurants of San Agustinillo
The majority of people who visit the Oaxacan Coast for a vacation want to sleep in a beachside accommodation, dreaming to the sounds of the waves crashing the sand in a comfortable, reasonably priced room. There are no high-rise hotels here, no room service, and no business centers (though most of the accommodations listed here do offer wireless internet service). Be aware that most hotels and restaurants do not take credit cards. Just recently cell phone service came to the area–there still are no land line phones. Most of the beachside businesses listed here serve two purposes: they provide comfortable cabañas and excellent dining experiences.

La Mora Posada and Café
Located on the main road right in the center of town is the three-story La Mora, owned and operated by super-friendly, efficient, and helpful Mexico City natives Rosa and Nacho. Service is excellent at their café on the first floor, open 8 am to 2 pm for breakfast or lunch. The food is fresh, healthy, and cooked to order, with excellent homemade desserts, coffee, and Mexican specialties. In the evening, the space is converted into an Italian restaurant with tasty specialties created by native Italian Angelo.

On the second floor there are three pleasant rooms, one with a kitchen and the other two with small refrigerators and safes, one double bed, and showers with hot water (another amenity not available everywhere). The balconies face the beach so you can sit at your table and check your email while enjoying nature. Floor three is a one-bedroom apartment with a bird’s-eye view of the sea and sand. A king-sized bed in the bedroom and futon in the sala make this a comfortable space for one to three people. There’s also a full kitchen and terrace. Un Sueño
Walk out of your white-washed individual cabaña onto the sand and into the beach breeze. Your home here with happy-go-lucky Julien Pardinilla (French and Spanish by way of Mexico City) is an attractive one-bedroom cabaña, one double bed with mosquito net, spacious bathroom, and porch. The palm-lined beach is your front yard.

Punta Placer
As you walk the beach, you’ll see the clients of Punta Placer relaxing on their terraces, watching the fishermen come in and go out to sea. All rooms face the ocean and have lovely interiors and bathrooms. There’s also a small restaurant and impeccable individual service given by Claire and David, expats from France.

México Lindo y qué Rico
This was one of the first successful businesses on the beach and it remains so today due to the attentiveness of its proprietor, the lovely Leyla. Located on the end of town closest to Mazunte, the restaurant tables sit right on the beach, where you can enjoy meals from 8 am to 11 pm. There is fresh fish always, as well as pizza and Mexican specialties. The adjacent rooms are clean and comfortable with the expected excellent views. The repeat clientele itself speaks for the fine reputation of the hotel/restaurant. People come back every year and stay for weeks, even months!

Paraiso del Pescador
The beautiful, air-conditioned rooms of the new Paraiso del Pescador now sit beachside. Old-timers will remember when native San Agustinillo resident Theresa Rodíguez’s hotel and restaurant was located on the other side of the road. This new building is larger much more deluxe. She and her family serve the same popular meals they have for the past 18 years, in the restaurant on the first floor.

Posada La Termita
Beautifully decorated deluxe spacious rooms on the beach surround the lovely patio restaurant owned by the dazzling, vivacious Isabel from Italy and her handsome and amiable husband Ricardo from Argentina. The specialty here is pizza, and we challenge you to find a better one. The calzones are also to die for!

El Pelícano
Barbecued dorado is the specialty of lifetime Puerto Angel resident Lourdes and her family, who own and manage this beachfront restaurant. Be sure to try it. The excellent desserts are hard to pass up. There are a few rooms to rent and, of this writing, it appears that they are expanding.

Palapa Evelia
Evelia and her husband Mario are long-time residents of San Agustinillo. According to her clients, she prepares the best huachinango on the beach. Right on the beach, next to Mexico Lindo, Evelia serves breakfast through late lunch. She also rents a few basic rooms above the restaurant with beautiful views at reasonable prices.

The small area of the coast that includes Playa Ventanilla, Mazunte, San Agustinillo, Zipolite, and Puerto Angel offers a vacation of interior discovery rather than a blast of external stimuli. Few people leave dissatisfied.

¡Disfruta la tranquilidad!
Carole Reedy, a resident of Mexico City, lived in San Agustinillo for 10 years from 1999 to 2009. She is happy to answer any questions you may have. carolina_reedy(at)yahoo.com