Oaxaca coast - P. Escondido and San Agustinillo (a quick trip report)

Oaxaca coast - P. Escondido and San Agustinillo (a quick trip ...
Howdy,I posted a few days ago on our week in Mex City so will follow up with a week on the Oaxaca coast (split Puerto Escondido and San Agustinillo) for those ...
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Oaxaca coast - P. Escondido and San Agustinillo (a quick trip report)

Howdy,
I posted a few days ago on our week in Mex City so will follow up with a week on the Oaxacacoast (split Puerto Escondido and San Agustinillo) for those who are interested.

We didnt plan to hit Oaxacas coast until much later in our trip but the lure of some sunshine and doing nothing for a while was pretty overwhelming. That and the fact that we managed to get a flight from MEX-PXM for USD 47 each for the following day. Flight with vivaaerobus was easy and quick. Landed at Puerto Escondido at about 11am. When we grabbed our bags, they had both been rummaged through by someone in security. A few coins i had left in my bag (about 5 pounds sterling) and some caribiner clips were taken... mildly annoying but not trip-ruining... lesson: dont leave ANYTHING in checked luggage except shitty pants. 

Collectivo taxi from PXM airport to anywhere in P.E (including Zicatela beach) was about 35 pesos pp I think. We jumped out at del Casa de Dan which unfortunately was booked solid, but they let us leave our bags there and we walked up the beach and checked a few places. Most rooms on Playa Zicatela seemed to be in the 4-600 range. 

Opted for Hotel Ines in the end and got a decent room with AC for 600 pn. They have a nice pool area with bar/food service which is not excessively priced. The room was great also - spotlessly clean and huge bed. 

We pretty much spent 3 days lounging around by their pool, drinking cerveza victoria and eating guac. On day 2 we took a surf lesson (350 pp) with 2 guys who drove us to the small sheltered cove just north of the town. It was good fun but tiring to us noobs. Surfing it seems is not easy at all. 350 seemed fairly reasonable for the 2 hour lesson with all the gear. 

Food wise the best meals were had at Hotel Ines (unimaginative, i know) but to be honest the whole beach seemed half open with barely any people around. - most restaurants seemed shut. We had a fairly average meal of chicken and stir fry veg at el Cafecito (ok, nothing more) and a less than average pizza at a place a few doors away from there (cant recall name) Finding something cheap and 'geniune' around there within easy walking distance at night was not easy - mostly euro tourist food, but the food at Ines was great, so we did not look hard; good antojitos, GREAT steak and fish. All in all a very good place.

After 3 days we were bored of looking at but not being able to swim in the sea (too dangerous, apparently), so decided to head further south to San Agustinillo (sp?)

Getting there from PE was easy, from ADO bus station we got Pochutla bound servicio sur bus to San Antonio ($32) and then hopped in a taxi to San Agustinillo ($25) - there were loads waiting. No hassle at all. 

I dunno what we were expecting, but if PE was quiet, San Augustinillo was DEAD. Not a bad thing at all, just an observation... walked up the beach and found a bargain at $250 for a room in a turquoise painted place on the western end of the beach (by the headland) ... think it was called something el Elephant.. what a place that is anyway. Rooms very basic, but they have a shaded roof terrace with kitchen, hammocks, loungers... perfect breeze, great views... awesome! 

As with PE about 30% of the places on the beach seemed shut for the season (couldnt understand why noone was there... the weather was perfect) so after getting bored of eating the same fish fillets (although delicious) we bought and cooked some food ourselves in the kitchen of el elephant.

One night we had GREAT pizza at the place on the eastern end of the beach. Next to Punto Placer cabanas. Really good. Go there. 

Other than that we spent most of the time bobbing up and down in the waves, reading, drinking beer and lounging. (What a drag!) 

On day 3 we took a boat trip ($180 pp) out to see some turtles (loads of them), dolphins, do a bit of fishing and some snorkeling. The fishing was good, the dude on the boat must have caught about 6-7 of those large tuna-like fish (i assume they are tuna, the flesh is very dark) - it was much better than expected - i didnt think we would see dolphins or turtles but we saw dozens. really impressive. the snorkeling wasnt great because the viz was quite poor, but it was fun to get in the water nonetheless. when we got back to the beach the dude from the boat gave us a couple of the fish, which were clumsily gutted, chopped and cooked in the elephants kitchen. would recommend.

also hired surfboards at $50 ph which was good fun.

There isnt much in the way of places to buy supplies (suncream etc) in S.A so thats something to note... we walked over to Manzute to stock up but even that is limited.

All in all another good fun week. Now in Oaxaca city about to start 2 weeks of spanish school and homestay.

Peace and love amigos. 
CHRIS

National Mezcal Day: Q & A With Raul Yrastorza of Las Perlas

 
Raul Yrastorza sips on a cocktail at Las Perlas in Downtown L.A. (Photo via dylanjeniphotography on Flickr)

This Sunday is National Mezcal Day, so in preparation LAist decided to have a chat with one of our city's most enthusiastic supporters of agave-based spirits, Raul Yrastorza. Yrastorza curates the program at Las Perlas in Downtown LA, where well-crafted cocktails and mezcal flights reign supreme. But even though Yrastorza is obsessed with mezcal, he wasn't even aware of the impending holiday until it was announced by "Red Solo Cup"-loving Toby Keith.

"I can get behind anything that celebrates mezcal," he jokes. "Even if it's a knucklehead who's creating it."

We talked to Yrastorza about the spirit's reflection of terroir, where to find the best in the city, and just what it is that makes mezcal so special.

How has the popularity and recognition of mezcal changed here in L.A. in the past few years? Would you say more cocktailians are interested in agave-based spirits?
Fortunately and unfortunately for mezcal, it's had a cult following for the 16 years in Los Angeles. It started way back when I helped create the program at El Carmen on 3rd and Sweetzer. We brought in mezcal because we were an agave-based bar. Back then, when you poured the real mezcal to people, they were like, "Oh my god. This is the second coming for agave!" Now, thanks to the craft cocktail movement, most people know what mezcal is.

Why is it that you love using mezcal as a bartender? What makes it so distinct?
Mezcal is one of those spirits that you can't hide in a cocktail. Bartenders and mixologists really crave spirits that have really strong flavors. When you're mixing with citrus or amaros or tinctures and bitters and syrups, you don't lose it like you would lose vodka or some gins out there.

What makes mezcal so special in terms of its flavor profile? There really is nothing else like it.

The flavor of roasted agave and the terroir of Oaxaca is like a spice cabinet within a spirit. It transcends all of the things that you can mix with it. It's amazing how a mezcal can be blended with an Italian amaro and bitters made in Silver Lake, and then you can have three corners of the world in one cocktail, and it all works ... You also have to remember that agave is a stimulant. There's a different high you get from drinking agave-based spirits.

What makes it different from tequila?
All tequila is mezcal, but not all mezcal is tequila. Anything agave-based distilled outside of the Tequila region is called mezcal.

How can people who are still curious about mezcals learn more?
The great thing about Las Perlas is that there are introductory-level cocktails, but you can also do mezcal flights that change anywhere from one to three times per week. In terms of other spots around town, there's always Rivera. Julian [Cox] has done a great job over there. We bounce stuff off each other all the time. Bricia [Lopez, of Guelaguetza] is such an important part of what's happening with mezcal, of course, because she's so passionate about it. She's helping bridge the relationship between the hipsters and the natives.

How will you be celebrating National Mezcal Day?
I think I celebrate National Mezcal Day day 6-7 nights a week. After this phone call we'll probably be putting together some sort of menu that will represent mezcal from all sorts of different regions and altitudes. That's the most important thing that people need to understand: Mezcal doesn't come from one central area. It can come from the middle of nowhere in a microclimate, or it can come from the heart of Oaxaca. Terrior is really reflected in the product, just like it is in a fine wine.

We'll consider ourselves schooled. Salud!

Contact the author of this article or email tips@laist.com with further questions, comments or tips.

By Krista Simmons in Food on October 19, 2012 4:30 PM 

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500px / Photo "Mazunte, Mexico" by Gil Van Hamme
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Mexico: Deaf police officers fight crime in Oaxaca The officers, known as ‘Angels of Silence,’ contribute to keeping the city safe with their heightened vision and ability to read lips. By Sergio Ramos for Infosurhoy.com – 19/10/2012

Mexico: Deaf police officers fight crime in Oaxaca

The officers, known as ‘Angels of Silence,’ contribute to keeping the city safe with their heightened vision and ability to read lips.

By Sergio Ramos for Infosurhoy.com – 19/10/2012

The 230 surveillance cameras in Oaxaca’s historic center and surrounding area provide feeds for the Police’s Command and Communication Control Center (C4). A team of 20 deaf police officers monitors the cameras in search of suspicious activities. (Courtesy of the Public Safety Secretariat of Oaxaca)

OAXACA, Mexico – The 230 surveillance cameras that monitor the streets of the historic downtown area of Oaxaca – a southeastern city that was declared a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 1987 – are watched by deaf police officers who maintain a close eye.

The Oaxaca Police’s Command and Communication Control Center (C4) was reopened in May after chronic maintenance problems had kept it closed for six years. But since the surveillance cameras do not have microphones, the authorities had been unable to determine what was being said by suspected criminals.

So officials turned to State Association for the Deaf to provide personnel with a keen sense of sight and ability to read lips, said Ignacio Villalobos Carranza, deputy secretary for Information and Institutional Development at the Public Safety Secretariat of Oaxaca.

The move has enabled the C4’s deaf police officers to help prevent crime and assist officers on the streets to apprehend suspects, making the downtown area – a major tourism attraction – safer.

“The first advantage the [deaf police officers] provide is that they can read lips,” Villalobos Carranza said. “The second advantage is because the deaf police officers have developed an acute sense of sight – they can see better than most people.”

Before joining the team of deaf police officers, Alicia, who didn’t provide her last name for security reasons, worked as an aide to an executive assistant at an accounting firm. But when the State Association for the Deaf told her the Public Safety Secretariat was hiring, she jumped at the opportunity.

“Those who are hearing impaired do not get distracted by outside noises and our attention is focused on the surveillance cameras,” Alicia, 28, said through an interpreter. “I have personally seen people taking drugs in public and other people engaging in assaults.”

Villalobos Carranza said the deaf officers are adept at spotting when a person is nervous or acting suspiciously, which has led to police officers detain suspects in possession of weapons or drugs, or planning assaults.

On July 12, Alicia identified two suspicious individuals who had spent several minutes on a street corner, looking around until they were approached by a vehicle around midnight. One of the suspects leaned against the driver side window. Darkness prevented the cameras from capturing exactly what the driver passed to the man, but Alicia saw it was a stack of envelopes.

Alicia told what she had seen to the interpreter on duty, who relayed the information to officers on the street. The officers arrested the two suspects after narcotics were found in the envelopes.

A pioneer state

Oaxaca is the first Mexican state to carry out this kind of initiative, according to Villalobos Carranza.

But before the initiative could become operational, the deaf officers had to be tested to gauge their levels of trust, which all of Mexico’s police departments require of their public servants, in accordance with the General Law of the Federal Public Safety System.

During the project’s first stage, 20 deaf people between the ages of 24 and 28 were hired. The employees received surveillance training and how to operate the C4’s cameras and computers, which are connected to the state capital’s Video Surveillance Center.

In addition, each group is assisted by four interpreters, who serve as liaisons with state police departments.

Ignacio Villalobos Carranza, deputy secretary for Information and Institutional Development at the Public Safety Secretariat of Oaxaca, said the deaf police officers are “incredibly committed to their work.” (Courtesy of the Public Safety Secretariat of Oaxaca)

Oaxaca has not experienced the wave of narco-trafficking-fueled violence experienced in other areas of Mexico, particularly in the northern region.

Between 2006 and 2011, the murder rate in Oaxaca has grown slightly, according to Mexico’s National Institute of Statistics and Geography (INEGI).

In 2011, 582 murders were reported, which was much lower than the figures seen in states such as Chihuahua (4,502), Guerrero (2,425) and Nuevo León (2,177). In 2006, Oaxaca registered 550 murders, still lower compared to Chihuahua, 648 and Guerrero, 768. Nuevo León had 179.

However, the 2011 National Survey on Victimization and the Perception of Public Safety (ENVIPE) reported 445,740 of the Oaxaca’s nearly four million residents have been victims of crimes such as theft, property damage and extortion – a 13.5% increase compared to number of crimes reported in 2010.

Second stage

The project’s second stage will be marked by the November openings of other video surveillance centers in the state’s coastal areas, such as Puerto Escondido, Huatulco and the Papaloapan region. The deaf officers who work in the C4 will train their counterparts in other jurisdictions.

An additional 200 cameras will be installed in the coastal area at a cost of $56 million Mexican pesos (US$4.368 million). The investment covers the cost of the cameras, software, training and the preparation of the video surveillance centers, Villalobos Carranza said.

“We’re especially interested in monitoring at-risk areas and tourist attractions,” he added.

Civil society has been particularly pleased with the initiative.

“It not only provides work for the deaf who have struggled so hard to reach this point, but it also makes us feel safe,” said Lorena Rojas, a resident of downtown Oaxaca.

The public calls the deaf police officers “Angels of Silence,” Villalobos Carranza said.

“We have found that they are incredibly committed to their work,” he added. “Sometimes, when they finish their shifts, they go out onto the streets to see if there are dead zones – places the cameras can’t reach. They then take the initiative to make corrections.”

Maries Tienda, Playa Zipolite, Oaxaca, Mexico

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Aborrates Elvy, Playa Zipolite

Viva Veracruz & Viva Puerto Escondido

Musings from and about 

About Alex Karras

OCT11
20127 COMMENTS AND 1 REACTIONWRITTEN BY JOHN CALYPSO

More than 20 years ago I had dinner at Alex Karras and Susan Clarks’ house. As I recall their daughter Katie was 9 or 10 years old. They lived in an upscale but not pretentious house in Los Angeles.

Anita and I had met Karras and Clark at a bread making cooking seminar in Southern Oregon. One thing led to another and there I was at their house as a dinner guest. Cannot recall why Anita was not with me. It was just the three Karras’ and I.

Susan is a gourmet cook. The dinner and conversation were as good as it gets. They both are/were very talented multi-faceted people. I was taken by their broad knowledge of so many things. It was a grand evening.

I was reminded of that evening when I read Alex had died yesterday.

I found him to be equally as gentle a human being as he was a powerful one. His football prowess at both the University of Iowa and four times Pro- Bowl selection Detroit Lion are legendary. Alex was one of the toughest defensive tackles ever to strap on shoulder pads.

He was a color commentator for Monday Night Football and a fine actor both on the small and big screens. Probably best known for the television series “Webster” and the film “Blazing Saddles”, for me personally I thought his work in the movie “Against All Odds” starring Jeff Bridges was perhaps his best. Of course some of the film was in Mexico. 

The pithy conversation that night was energetic and fun but there was an incident that changed me ever since.

After the aforementioned incredible dinner Susan was hustling about as women so often do after a dinner party meal. Alex and I with wine glasses headed down to the play room where Katie’s toys were prominent.

As we were talking I noticed a trophy of some sort in amongst the many toys in a box seemingly dedicated to Katie’s toys. There had been a very few trophies and awards upstairs in the adult area. This one caught my eye.

I lifted it from its tangled existence amongst the toys. It was heavy and beautifully plated. I do not remember if there was a tackle in motion atop the richly plated award. But, I remember well the inscription: “Alex Karras – The All Time Greatest Professional Football Defensive Player.”

I knew Karras’ football career. He was one tough hombre. But this, an award denoting him the greatest defensive player of all time, and here I was holding this magnificent trophy pulled from his daughter’s toy box, drinking wine and chatting casually with the guy.

I interrupted whatever subject we were on and said, “I have to ask – this amazing honor bestowed on you! And it is here in amongst Katie’s toys? Confusing.”

Here Alex gets this big grin on his face. He takes a deep swallow of the elegant wine we were drinking; a long pensive pause. “You know I made more money the first year I started in acting than I did in my entire football career. You might imagine how busy a time it was.”

Another sip of wine and a still wider grin. “So the league was trying to get me to show up at this sporting awards dinner in New York. They were after Y.A. and me to attend.” (Y.A.Tittle – Hall of Fame quarterback for the Colts, 49’ers and Giants). “They were pestering me about it.”

He continued, “I finally said, ‘Look if you want us there give Y.A. an award for something like the best offensive player in the history of football and me one for best defensive player and we will show up.’ And that is exactly what they did.” Big laughs here!

Thus the rather meaningless trophy was part of Katie’s toy box; and that moment made me so aware of the commercialism of sports.

“His ability to laugh about the game of football and himself helped build the brand of this sport.” (ESPN quote- Humor was His Strength)

At the time Alex had written a novel titled, “Tuesday Night Football” which was essentially a not so glowing spoof on the Monday Night Football show. He was negotiating the possibility of a film based on the book.

Alex had a great handle on just who he was. He was way too smart to be a bruising tackle. Sadly it appears that his athletic efforts shortened his life. For me the brutality of sports and the damage to fine young bodies is something that has tarnished the excitement of watching sports.

Alex Karras was a stand-up guy. The world is a better place for him having been here. Stay Tuned!

Posted in FACTOID, Friends, General, In The News, Opinion, The States

Fishing with Cade in Huatulco, Oax. México

Sinisa Tamamovic - Wind (Original Mix)

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How to Travel From Mexico City to Puerto Escondido | Getaway Tips ... The coastline of Oaxaca, the southern Mexican province where you can find the seaside town of Puerto Escondido, was more difficult to travel to a generation ... getawaytips.azcentral.com/travel-mexico-city-puerto-escondid...

How to Travel From Mexico City to Puerto Escondido | Getaway Tips ...
The coastline of Oaxaca, the southern Mexican province where you can find the seaside town ofPuerto Escondido, was more difficult to travel to a generation ...
getawaytips.azcentral.com/travel-mexico-city-puerto-escondid...

How to Travel From Mexico City to Puerto Escondido

by Kristy Ambrose

A bus is the cheapest and most convenient way to travel in Mexico.

The coastline of Oaxaca, the southern Mexican province where you can find the seaside town of Puerto Escondido, was more difficult to travel to a generation ago. In the past 20 years, new infrastructure has appeared on the Oaxacan coast in the form of airports and highways as the resort town of Huatulco and the surrounding towns grow. It is easier than ever to travel from the heart of modern Mexico to what remains a rustic and underdeveloped coastline. There are virtually no passenger trains left in Mexico, but tour bus companies have popped up to fill the gap, with even the most upscale companies offering frequent travel times and economical prices.

Items you will need

• Proper identification (this includes your passport and traveler or work visa)
• Spanish phrasebook (optional, depending on your knowledge of Spanish, as little English is spoken in Oaxaca).
• Book, MP3 player or laptop (the trip will take 17 to 20 hours, depending on the bus line)
• Motion-sickness medicine, if needed, depending on your propensity for travel sickness, as the road winds through the southern foothills of the Sierra Madres)

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Bus Transportation

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Choosing your Bus Line

1

Use your North American credit card to buy and reserve tickets through a website called Ticket Bus. All of the major Mexican bus lines have their schedules posted on this popular and frequently used website. Peruse the schedules of all the major Mexican bus lines using this site, but because you are traveling south to Oaxaca you will be likely be choosing between ADO, OCC or SUR.

2

For the ADO or OCC bus lines (executive, first and second class) reserve your place at least a few days in advance either in person at the station (if possible) or online using a credit card. When traveling on one of the first class lines, you will have access to such amenities as free Wi-Fi, seats that fully recline, a movie and even meals served at your seat. These routes are popular, especially for overnight trips. Choose an upscale bus line if you would prefer to travel very comfortably.

3

Traveling on a third class bus is an option for the more adventurous traveler, or someone on a budget or with little time to plan. It is easier to buy your ticket closer to your departure time, because these inexpensive and frequent buses rarely fill up. These buses have their local charm, because you will likely be sharing your seat with a commuter or student, but also make frequent stops, and do not offer entertainment in the form of movies or Internet; they tend to offer a bumpy, less comfortable ride.

Tips

• With an relatively new and small but still bustling international airport in the nearby city of Huatulco, it is possible to catch a short flight to the Playa Chica ("Little Beach," a common local nickname for the coastline between Salina Cruz and Puerto Escondido) from Mexico City and then to travel by car, boat or bus to nearby Puerto Escondido. Puerto also has a small airport that hosts a few national airlines. If you are short on time or would prefer not to brave the winding roads along the Sierra Madres or the Playa Chica (not for the faint of heart or the weak of stomach) this might be the preferable option.

Warning

• Carry your passport and your visa with you at all times, and have them readily available for inspection. It is not uncommon to find army checkpoints set up in commonly traveled stretches of highway to search passing vehicles for contraband weapons or illegal drugs. Tourists must be able to identify themselves with official documents to avoid suspicion of being a smuggler or illegal immigrant. The fairly recent additions of new highways and improvements to existing ones have made driving easier, but it remains precarious due to occasional labor unrest or highway crime. Labor unrest can also result in road closures. Driving from Mexico City to Puerto Escondido is only recommended to those very familiar with the area.

References

• Ticket Bus; Red de Boletaje y Reservaciones
• Moon Travel Guides; Oaxaca, By Air
• Moon Travel Guides; Discover Oaxaca

About the Author

Kristy Ambrose enjoys writing about teaching, travel and pet care. She holds a Bachelor of Arts in English literature from the University of Victoria.

Photo Credits

• Ryan McVay/Lifesize/Getty Images

M 4.4 - OAXACA, MEXICO - 2012-10-13 20:38:54 UTC

You felt this earthquake. Tell us! Magnitude mb 4.4 Region OAXACA, MEXICO Date time 2012-10-13 20:38:54.3 UTC Location 16.58 N ; 98.08 W Depth 1 km Distances 275 km S Puebla (pop 1,392,099 ; local time 15:38:54.3 2012-10-13) 155 km W Oaxaca (pop 262,566 ; local time 15:38:54.3 2012-10-13) 30 km NW Pinotepa nacional (pop 25,669 ; local time 15:38:54.3 2012-10-13) 8 km S Amuzgos (pop 4,003 ; local time 15:38:54.3 2012-10-13)

Source parameters provided by another agency

More information at:  USGS/NEIC Denver, USA

Mari's Tienda- Zipolite, Oaxaca

Tienda Esmeralda

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Day of the Dead events to maintain cultural traditions

Puerto Escondido - Day of the Dead events to maintain traditions
Day of the Dead events will be held in Puerto Escondido as part of the annual Fiestas de Noviembre, and are intended to help conserve cultural traditions.
soldelacosta.com/.../day-of-the-dead-events-to-maintain-cultur...

By Tony Richards on October 17, 2012

| El Sol de la Costa

Some events are being planned for Puerto Escondido in November with the intention of protecting and maintaining cultural traditions.
Day of the Dead events will be held in conjunction with the Fiestas de Noviembre in Plaza Marlin, in front of the Hotel Ines, at Playa Zicatela on November 1 and 2. According to information supplied by the Hotel Arcoiris, there will be a competition of altars, another for costumes, a greased pole competition and burro races. Prizes will be awarded to the best altars.
In addition several events are planned for November 2:
• At 7 pm there will be a brief explanation of the Mictlán.
• At 7:15 a Mictlantecutli ceremony will be presented, with dance of the Mexicas.

---

• At 8 pm musician Oscar Hernández will give a concert of prehispanic instruments, Hacia el Mictlán.
Organizers of the Days of the Dead invite everyone to attend, participate and enjoy the activities on both days starting at 5 pm. Admission is free.
For more information and for registration contact the Hotel Arcoiris at 582 0432 or 582 1494, email to hotelarcoiris@prodigy.net.mx.
A complete listing of all Fiestas de Noviembre events can be seen at El Sol’s events calendar.

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San Pedro Pochutla, OA Radio Stations - Listen Online

San Pedro Pochutla, OA Radio Stations - Listen Online
San Pedro Pochutla, OA Radio Stations on your iPhone, iPad, iPod Touch, Android, Blackberry, and other app-enabled mobile phones. Get in touch via the ...
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