zipolite - the ultimate beach bum town
There are two types of people who will need little persuasion to make their way to Zipolite:
1) Fans of the cult Mexican 'coming-of-age' road move 'Y tu mama tambien' looking
for similar epiphanies and awakenings for it was here that the mesmerising beach
scenes were filmed.
2) Those who have a desire to sunbathe or wander around the beach as nature intended;
in their birthday suit with numerous bodily appendages swinging freely (age and luck
dependent).
And if you encamp here long enough, you may just become someone who belongs to
both groups.
'Zipolite te atrapa' and for good reason: this place is a little gem on Mexico's Oaxaca
coast and you will probably struggle to leave.
1) Fans of the cult Mexican 'coming-of-age' road move 'Y tu mama tambien' looking
for similar epiphanies and awakenings for it was here that the mesmerising beach
scenes were filmed.
2) Those who have a desire to sunbathe or wander around the beach as nature intended;
in their birthday suit with numerous bodily appendages swinging freely (age and luck
dependent).
And if you encamp here long enough, you may just become someone who belongs to
both groups.
'Zipolite te atrapa' and for good reason: this place is a little gem on Mexico's Oaxaca
coast and you will probably struggle to leave.
GREAT FOR
A stunning uncrowded beach, strong and challenging surf, an LGBT friendly crowdand simply doing nothing. Though there are a small selection of upmarket hotels and
wealthy Mexican weekenders, Zipolite remains a budget backpacker haven without
having sold its soul over to them (a la Puerto Escondido).
This was, in our view, the best place along Mexico's west coast.
AVOID IF
We don't know why any traveller worth their salt would want to miss this place.However, the laid-back, sometimes hippy-esque, atmosphere may have some craving
more 'action' after a few days and the nudity scattered around the beach (mainly the far
east and west sides) may make some uncomfortable.
Zipolite's sea also has a justifiably notorious reputation. The waves are strong, the curre
nt unpredictable and the undertow can be overpowering, so much so that the beach is also
known by some as the 'beach of the dead'. There have been several drownings over the
years and the sea here should be treated with respect and an appreciation of the dangers.
Volunteer lifeguards are a common sight and red or yellow flags will indicate the state
of the ocean each day. We did enjoy swimming in the sea, with the crashing waves
being a lot of fun to battle and jump into in shallow water, but this is not the sea for
you to learn to surf or practise your swimming.
MUST DO
Although we'd like to pretend that we were a hive of activity and exploration duringour time here, that is not what Zipolite is about. The must do things here usually involve
mostly doing nothing: all you'll need is a good book, good company, a cold beer and
barefeet. Those who prefer a luxurious experience can seek out the white sun-lounger
at Hotel Nude and a few other bars – just buy a meal or a few drinks and they can be
yours for the day.
Nearby Mazunte has the Mexican Turtle Centre which is a worthwhile day-trip - a
camionetta ride will cost between $5-6 per person.
WHERE TO SLEEP
There are plenty of cheap rustic cabanas, dorms and hammocks along the beach.Your best bet is the west-side of the beach as everything on the east side feels a little
remote.
Budget accommodation is easy to find, with the going rate around $50 for a dorm/hammock/
camping and $100 – 150 for a wooden cabana. Our top tip is El Carrizo wherea double
room with wifi, kitchen and a great host will cost you $100 pesos a night.
WHERE TO DRINK
It seems that at any given time of day it is happy hour in Zipolite, with the majority of thebeach flanked bars and restaurants serving up reassuringly strong 2-4-1 cocktails and
cheap beers. Two of our favourites were Reggae Bar and Bang-Bang, conveniently
situated next door one another, about half-way down the beach. Popular with local artisans
and backpackers, these unpretentious watering holes are a great place to chill out in a
hammock, beer in hand whilst listening to a great soundtrack and partaking in a drinking
game or two.
WHERE TO EAT
The main street parallel to the beach houses cheap taco and seafood joints, pizzerias anda couple of Western-based menus.
Our top picks are the '5 tacos for $35' place and the barbecue chicken stall where you can
have a mountain of a meal for $30/60/100 (depending on how much chicken you select)
involving pasta, rice, tortillas, potatoes and salsas.
A number of the artisans also sell freshly baked pastries in the morning or late afternoon
on the beach – ranging from $8-15, these are a delicious accompaniment to your coffee-
break.
Hotel Nude is the high-end restaurant in town but its food is lacking in quality and very
over-priced.
GETTING THERE
If coming from the North or the East of Oaxaca, your first port of call will be Pochutla,from where it is easy to flag down a camioneta to Zipolte on the main road. Some of these
will have a sign for Mazunte and go no further, so double check with the driver on final
destination. The prices can vary a little depending on the driver, but the typical going rate
is $12 pesos per person, for the 20-30 minute ride.
If arriving from Puerto Escondido, the cheaper and quicker option is to get dropped off
at the San Antonio crossroads (look out for the Oxxo shop), and wait for a camioneta
towards Zipolite. Cost is approx $10 pesos per person.
TOP-TIP
There are numerous tiendas on the main street, but we discovered that the cheapest isthe smallest, on the same side and closest to Posada Mexico. As well as the satisfaction
of saving a few pesos, the best part about this shop is trying to eke a smile out of the
owner, a glamorous octogenarian; It took us about a week.
BUDGET-BREAKER OR MAKER?
Maker. We planned three days in Zipolite and stayed for nearly three weeks. And weweren't the only ones who found themselves settling here for a lot longer than planned.
The cheapest accommodation so far on our trip ($100 for a cabana with private
terrace and shared kitchen), friendly locals and a special atmosphere were all
available without ever coming close to breaking our budget.
LIKE IT? PIN IT!
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ivan