I had a good although restless sleep being only 30 feet from the thunderous waves of Zipolite throughout the night. Some thunder and lightning ...
Rest days in Zipolite, Mexico
I had a good although restless sleep being only 30 feet from the thunderous waves of Zipolite throughout the night. Some thunder and lightning threatened a storm throughout the night but it never came to fruition. Excited to go surfing in the morning I was up at 7 and went over to grab my board. Nobody was there. Bummer. I waited and watched the ocean to see what it was doing hoping to get some knowledge of its characteristics. Around 8:15 Caballero showed up to get my board and I was a bit unnerved to start. The water had turned to crap in my opinion and was told to wait a bit for the tide to come in. Not being the most patient person this was agony. I get surfing is fun and for me the control of the conditions is completely out of my hands which is frustrating. After waiting some more I asked if I could get a refund and was told I’d have to wait as the money was back at his house. We agreed to meet at noon. By this point I was laying into myself that I wasn’t committed and giving myself reasons that surfing wasn’t for me. In any case I went to go grab a bite to eat and wait it out as I needed to chill out and clear my head which I did by reading articles on beginner surfing and comparing surfing to mountain biking. This was all an attempt to justify my decision which it did. As I was leaving I saw Caballero coming into the food spot and he told me it was good at the moment. I trusted him and went to go paddle out. There were lots of big close out waves so I stayed in the white wash and rode some of that to just get some practice. It was fun and I went out a few more times over the course of the day. All in all I have to say that being patient is something that I definitely lack. Surfing is something that requires patience so we automatically clash. There’s always that feeling of chasing the high of catching your first wave and it eventually comes after some time. I’m not too sure I’m willing to invest the time and effort into pursuing that high at the moment.
The next couple of days I chose to stay in Zipolite and actually rented a surfboard for Saturday and Sunday. During that time a few guys from Oaxaca came to the camp site and it turns out they walked through the forest and hitched the last bit. That was crazy. Over some quesadillas we got to talking and sharing. They were really nice and jovial. Over the next few days I lounged on the beach, surfed a few times a day and read 1984 by George Orwell. The days went by slowly and I got used to relaxing. As for surfing I managed to make my way out past the breaking waves a couple of times and then tried to catch a few waves before getting caught up and having some large waves come crashing down on me sending my tired body back to shore. By Sunday I made it out and managed to catch a wave and was pleased with myself. The weather was super hot during the day and I was getting cooked during the day in the water so I limited my time to the morning and evenings to surf. Progress is slow but I’m glad I stuck with it.
Saturday we had a feast as the guys went into town and got some fish (barrilete) from Puerto Angel. They cooked it up and I got some beers. It was delicious and we ate until we were stuffed. It’s awesome what a little give and take will provide.
All in all I was happy to have rested up over several days and proud of my accomplishments.
The next couple of days I chose to stay in Zipolite and actually rented a surfboard for Saturday and Sunday. During that time a few guys from Oaxaca came to the camp site and it turns out they walked through the forest and hitched the last bit. That was crazy. Over some quesadillas we got to talking and sharing. They were really nice and jovial. Over the next few days I lounged on the beach, surfed a few times a day and read 1984 by George Orwell. The days went by slowly and I got used to relaxing. As for surfing I managed to make my way out past the breaking waves a couple of times and then tried to catch a few waves before getting caught up and having some large waves come crashing down on me sending my tired body back to shore. By Sunday I made it out and managed to catch a wave and was pleased with myself. The weather was super hot during the day and I was getting cooked during the day in the water so I limited my time to the morning and evenings to surf. Progress is slow but I’m glad I stuck with it.
Saturday we had a feast as the guys went into town and got some fish (barrilete) from Puerto Angel. They cooked it up and I got some beers. It was delicious and we ate until we were stuffed. It’s awesome what a little give and take will provide.
All in all I was happy to have rested up over several days and proud of my accomplishments.
LYV
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ivan