A little about Playa Zipolite, The Beach of the Dead . . .

Playa Zipolite, Oaxaca, Southern Mexico, on the Pacific Ocean. A little bit about my favorite little get-away on this small world of ours.

Zipolite, a sweaty 30-minute walk west from Puerto Angel, brings you to Playa Zipolite and another world. The feeling here is 1970's - Led Zep, Marley, and scruffy gringos.

A long, long time ago, Zipolite beach was usually visited by the Zapotecans...who made it a magical place. They came to visit Zipolite to meditate, or just to rest.

Recently, this beach has begun to receive day-trippers from Puerto Angel and Puerto Escondido, giving it a more TOURISTY feel than before.

Most people come here for the novelty of the nude beach, yoga, turtles, seafood, surf, meditation, vegetarians, discos, party, to get burnt by the sun, or to see how long they can stretch their skinny budget.

I post WWW Oaxaca, Mexico, Zipolite and areas nearby information. Also general budget, backpacker, surfer, off the beaten path, Mexico and beyond, information.

REMEMBER: Everyone is welcome at Zipolite.



Saturday, December 3, 2016

Mexico Pinterest ... TripPuerto Angel OaxacaVacations Xp2002 Ish. Puerto Angel, Oaxaca, Mexico ... Puerto Angel, Mexico. Save Learn more at Uploaded by user.

... TripPuerto Angel OaxacaVacations Xp2002 Ish. Puerto Angel, Oaxaca, Mexico ... Puerto Angel, Mexico. Save Learn more at Uploaded by user.

A trip to Puerto Angel

John McClelland


By John McClelland ©John McClelland 2006 -

The tourists at Zipolite were decidedly young although, there was a generous smattering of old hippies who seemed to be the more ardent practitioners of nudism.
 Mountain route 
to Puerto Angel
A massive mountain range known as the Sierra Madre del Sur (mother range of the south) isolates Oaxaca City from the Pacific coastline of Oaxaca State. To get from one to the other is an adventure on a road of indifferent condition and engineering. The distance is only 150 miles but the trip takes the better part of seven hours. The Sierra Madre del Sur is a tall mountain range with peaks more 12,000 feet high and the trip takes us to elevations approaching 10,000 feet. The road follows the line of least resistance around and up the mountains, and contains so many twists and turns that travellers are advised to take seasickness medicine. It hugs the edge of the mountains and one side or the other is an open vista of sky. Sudden abrupt turns prevent an Evil Kneivel launch into space. Absolute attention to driving is mandatory, since portions of the road often succumb to gravity and completely vanish. Avalanches are known to engulf the road as boulders and gravel seek the valley bottom below. The sheer drama of this road implies lunacy on the part of anyone driving fast or at night.
The dangers of the road combine incongruously with the beauty of the terrain to keep you in a constant state of surprise. Valleys lie thousands of feet below on one side of the pavement and mountains ascend higher on the other side. From dry and sparse vegetation when first leaving Oaxaca City, the landscape grows greener as we ascend. Before long, pine forests begin to appear. At the peak of the climb, the temperature drops dramatically from the high eighties to the mid fifties. At the very crest, we stop at a cliff side restaurant. Here, in sheer wilderness where waiters wear parkas, we are able to check email on high-speed wireless Internet.
Once the pinnacle of the climb is breached, there is a dramatic drop to the Pacific Ocean and you witness an amazing transformation from pine forest to tropical jungle. At some points, these two forest zones absurdly intertwine.
Along the route are a number of small villages and many hamlets of just a few homes. In the valleys far below, larger communities and farms appear as tiny toy buildings. Wood is abundant and there is a rudimentary logging industry. On the Pacific side of the mountains, agriculture is more visible with an abundance of bananas, melons, coffee beans and tropical fruits.

 The bay
Coastal Town

After about six and a half hours on the road, we catch a glimpse of the mighty Pacific and shortly thereafter, enter the city of Pochutla, the largest community in these parts. Nine kilometres further on, we arrive at the coastal town of Puerto Angel, a place that could never be accused of giving a good first or last impression.

 Fishing boats
The town was founded in the 1850s when the government installed a wharf in the horseshoe shaped harbour as a means of creating trade between this isolated region and the rest of the country. By 1870, Puerto Angel was purported to be the busiest port in Mexico. Government interest lagged thereafter and the town was nothing but an afterthought until the 1960s, when tourists began to take interest in this most southerly point in Mexico. At that time, access was by the same highway we drove but its condition was far less hospitable than the serpentine track we travelled. The opening of the Pacific coast highway through the '70s and '80s added to tourist interest. Gradually, small-scale hotels were built to serve the tourists' needs.

 The harbour
Geographically Puerto Angel consists of a small horseshoe bay protected at its entrance by craggy outcrops of rock. From the point where the ocean hits the land, there are roughly a couple of hundred yards of flat ground before the terrain rises precipitously up the Sierra Madre. Much of the flat land is dedicated to the main road running parallel to the beach and it is likely the only paved road in town. The east side of the bay contains the town wharf and is dedicated mainly to fishing and a small naval base. It has a nice sand beach onto which the fishing boats are run aground. Rotting fish entrails provide a distinct aroma. Children cast lines off the wharf and have little difficulty catching fish the size of speckled trout but the shape of tuna.

 Playa Panteón
The other side of the bay is known as Playa Panteon. This is where most of the tourists convene. The beach is grittier but the waves and undertow are not as rough or dangerous as the east side. Most of the tourists are Mexican with only the occasional gringo for colour.
A Bohemian Beach

We looked at a couple of hotels in Puerto Angel but were not impressed enough to rent. Our experienced colleague suggested that we travel a further two miles to Zipolite Beach where he had arranged accommodation that would take him and his rottweiler. Zipolite is one of the few nude beaches in Mexico and is renowned for its Bohemian atmosphere.

 Beach scene
The beach at Zipolite is fabulous. It runs for more than a mile from east to west and has beautiful, soft sand that packs hard at the waterline for easy walking. Facing the beach is the most ragtag collection of hotels I have ever seen. It is apparently vastly improved as a result of a recent hurricane. I can't imagine! We took a room in the best hotel we could find which was a four-storey masonry structure overlooking the beach. A single room, quite small, with two double beds, a private bathroom and large balcony was $30 per night. The hotel, like all others, did not offer hot water. Other hotel rooms along the beach could be had for $6-$20 per night or you could just rent a hammock on a roof or in a courtyard. Some hotels were nothing but rickety wooden structures built on stilts and wouldn't qualify as fit for human habitation in most countries of the world. These cheaper hotels had common baths and showers. However, if you want to enjoy an almost perfect beach and have little or no money, then $6 per night might be the perfect price.

 $20 a night hotel 
at Zipolite Beach
The tourists at Zipolite were decidedly young although, there was a generous smattering of old hippies who seemed to be the more ardent practitioners of nudism. The crowd was almost entirely foreign with many Europeans and a lot of Canadians. Most surprising was the quiet on the beach. For a February and considering the large supply of "hotel rooms," this place was massively under-populated. Of the scant crowd, most were either sunbathing or strolling. Virtually no one was swimming, since the ocean is treacherous. Dangerous waves roll in day and night with a roar that is deafening. Six or so men were exercising their right to return to Mother Nature and these were strictly exhibitionists. They positioned themselves spread-eagled beside the main walking paths or strode or jogged in various stages of arousal. The true nudists were at the farthest end of the beach in an area secluded by rock outcroppings. I never saw one naked female and was told that I wasn't looking closely enough. I must admit that the sun and the heat contribute immensely to the desire to be liberated from your inhibitions.

 $6 a night hotel at Zipolite Beach
By early afternoon, the beach is almost deserted, due to the intensity of the sun and heat. Patrons reappear again around 4 p.m. to soak up the last rays and view the glorious Zipolite sunset at 6:30. The sun sets in the notch of a massive rock outcrop at the edge of the ocean. The effect is quite remarkable and creates a starburst quality to the final rays of the day.
With darkness, we settle into plastic chairs set in soft sand at a seaside restaurant. The food is surprisingly good with a wide selection of seafood ranging from tuna to shrimp and octopus. Adding to what little ambience this restaurant possessed was a man seated next to us. After his dinner, he rose from his chair, stripped butt naked and casually walked out of the restaurant to the beach for a swim. Bon appetite!

In the evening, various bands entertain in the hotel courtyards playing jazz and reggae music. The scent of marijuana wafts overtly through the crowd. The entertainment doesn't last much beyond eleven by which time most people are exhausted by sun, sights and swilling.
The Luxury Hotel

Evening is a good time to meet and talk to other, and we heard of a resort only two blocks inland. For $3 per day you could swim in their large pool. You could also rent luxury accommodation. After our first night at the beachfront hotel, my princess was up at the crack of dawn tracking down "the resort." Finding it was simple enough and it was undoubtedly the Zipolite equivalent of dying and going to heaven. The contrast of this artistically developed, 100-acre palm grove with the tawdriness of the rest of Zipolite was otherworldly. For $100 US per night, we rented a three-storey, detached house with kitchen, dining room, living room, one and a half baths, two bedrooms and a very private, rooftop deck. It was air-conditioned, had toilet seats and offered cold-water showers.

 Our Palace at Zipolite
The attention to detail in this house exceeded anything seen at five star resorts. The windows were custom built in oval shapes; the doors were of inlaid panels with rounded corners that meant all the doorjambs and casings had to be hand carved. The patio doors leading to the decks were reminiscent of a Darth Vader mask with triangular venting on the sides. Surrounding the house was a shallow moat built of stone. Fish swam in its clear waters amidst lush tropical vegetation. Only fifty feet from the front door was an Olympic sized pool that we shared with daily visitors. Guinea hens, ducks, roosters and chickens resided on the grounds and walked about the pool apron picking up crumbs and other stray bits of food. Overhead, eagles searched for prey, palm trees rustled and tropical birds played their screeching melodies.

 Moat and tropical flowers 
around our Zipolite home
We spent most of our time poolside or on the rooftop deck in a hammock and would go to the beach twice daily for strolls and for dinners. We left the compound by a rear exit that took us past the homes of some of Mexico's poorest. The living conditions are absolutely appalling. Rough wood-plank homes with thatched roofs and dirt floors were the norm. Cooking was done outside on wood fires. Laundry was washed by hand in old tubs of unknown origin and there was little evidence of sanitation judging from the smells. I am not convinced that the Mexicans at Zipolite are a happy lot. It is hard to get rich from tourists spending $6 per day for a hotel room. They're not the type to be big tippers. I have also heard that the Mexicans take great offence at the nudity on their beach and this may explain some of the indifferent behaviour of store clerks, particularly women old enough to have families.
We spent four days at Puerto Angel and Zipolite Beach and genuinely enjoyed ourselves. The beach is truly marvellous as is the food. Blatant nudity is offensive at times but being naked in the heat is a cathartic experience if done discreetly. The town is very poor and run down, and there is little to see and do beyond the beach. One old hippie, who comes here yearly for extended vacations, escapes to civilization every three weeks lest he "goes brain dead." However, Zipolite may be just perfect if you want an unusual and cheap vacation or if you just want to let it all hang out.
Published or Updated on: January 31, 2008 by John McClelland © 2008 
Contact John McClelland

Explore Mosquito Nets, Beach Free and more! Pinterest Hotel Lyoban Zipolite Offering an outdoor pool and a restaurant, Hotel Lyoban is located in Zipolite, right on the beach. Free Wi-Fi access is available.

Explore Mosquito Nets, Beach Free and more!
Hotel Lyoban Zipolite Offering an outdoor pool and a restaurant, Hotel Lyoban is located in Zipolite, right on the beach. Free Wi-Fi access is available.

Hotel Lyoban Zipolite Offering an outdoor pool and a restaurant, Hotel Lyoban is located in Zipolite, right on the beach. Free Wi-Fi access is available. The rooms at this hostel come with a seating area, a fan and mosquito nets.

Hoteles de Zipolite Oaxaca Mio Hoteles en Zipolite, reservaciones con las mejores tarifas de hoteles de Mazunte, Puerto Angel, San Agustinillo y Zipolite.

Hoteles de Zipolite
Hoteles en Zipolite, reservaciones con las mejores tarifas de hoteles de Mazunte, Puerto Angel, San Agustinillo y Zipolite.

Las mejores tarifas de hoteles de Zipolite

Playa Zipolite en lengua náhuatl significa Playa de los Muertos a causa de las corrientes marinas peligrosas. Esta es una playa nudista, concurrida por turistas extranjeros que gustan practicar deportes acuáticos a mar abierto como el surf y boogie surf. 
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BMX Oaxaca Matias Romero Saam Sb Skater Saam Sb Skater

BMX Oaxaca Matias Romero

Friday, December 2, 2016

FITUR Visitmex Visitmex



Boston Blackie Stolen Rings At Christmas 1948

Much to be discovered at archaeological site Ichkabal expected to provide economic boost to southern Quintana Roo - See more at:

Much to be discovered at archaeological site

Ichkabal expected to provide economic boost to southern Quintana Roo

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The archaeological site of Ichkabal is getting ready to open its doors and bring a greater number of tourists to the southern region of Quintana Roo.
Dating back to 300 BC and containing structures higher than 40 meters, the site is older than Calakmul in Campeche and taller than Chichén Itzá in Yucatán.
Ichkabal was first reached by archaeologists in 1995. Spread over more than 30 square kilometers, the relatively recent discovery is believed to have been one of the most important political centers in the region during the Preclassic Mayan era.
“Everything is yet to be discovered in Ichkabal,” said INAH, the National Institute of Anthropology and History, in a prepared statement, adding that the first archaeological explorations of the site started in 2009.
Ichkabal is located 82 kilometers from Chetumal, the state capital, in the municipality of Bacalar. Set in a region of natural wealth and a forest reserve, Ichkabal has the potential to be a great environmental conservation project.
The grounds around the site can also offer ecotourism opportunities such as hiking and birdwatching.
The region currently receives an average of 100,000 visitors per year, a figure expected to increase by 20% every year once the new site opens its doors in 2017 or 2018.
The federal government has allocated 11 million pesos for tourism-related infrastructure.
The investment will include upgrading the road to the site, ecotourism promotion, training of tourism services staff, the creation of cultural products and the integration of archaeological corridors.
The state Secretary of Tourism believes that the opening of Ichkabal will be a major economic, social and tourism boost for the entire southern region of Quintana Roo.
Source: El Universal (sp)
- See more at:

Suculenta Brings Rare Pickles to Oaxaca Paste Magazine When Garcia moved to the city of Oaxaca with her boyfriend Daniel Lopez, who co-opened top bakery Boulenc on Calle Porfirio Diaz, she had been ...

Suculenta Brings Rare Pickles to Oaxaca
When Garcia moved to the city of Oaxaca with her boyfriend Daniel Lopez, who co-opened top bakery Boulenc on Calle Porfirio Diaz, she had been ...

Suculenta Brings Rare Pickles to Oaxaca

Suculenta Brings Rare Pickles to Oaxaca
Garcia at the tasting counter at Suculenta
Paulina Garcia grew up in arid northern Mexico, where garlic, pecans, apples and potatoes grow, but most people she knew shopped at H-E-B, Walmart and Sam’s Club. “In the north, we’re pretty Americanized,” Garcia said.
When Garcia moved to the city of Oaxaca with her boyfriend Daniel Lopez, who co-opened top bakery Boulenc on Calle Porfirio Diaz, she had been experimenting with pickling. A few months ago, a small, charming space opened up across the street from Boulenc and was offered to the bakery, but they didn’t want it, so they offered it to Garcia and Lopez. Garcia knew immediately what she wanted to do: a pickle shop that took advantage of the bounty of Oaxaca’s markets, which overflow with such a diversity of fruits and vegetables that Garcia says she learns a new species every week. A few wooden shelves and pickling sessions later, Suculenta was ushered into Oaxaca’s booming culinary scene.
Cucumber pickles in two sizes
Guests peruse the shelves full of dill pickles, cardamom honey, pear marmalade, mushroom pate, pumpkin relish, ginger mustard, apple vinegar, and oil flavored with Mexican herbs and spices. Friends, neighbors and acquaintances pop in to say hello to Garcia as she works on putting up her latest batch of escabeche. “We know a lot of these people from the bakery, so you could say we have a close relationship with our customers,” Garcia said. “This project reminds some people of a recipe from their grandmother or mother, so everybody is always sharing.”
Nispero fruits and various jams and sauces
At the front, I sample a jam that is remarkably flavorful, evoking the sweet, ripe, light taste that hovers somewhere between an apricot and a plum. Garcia says that the jam is made from a small golden yellow fruit that she passes to me, urging me to taste it. Garcia found the Japanese plum known as loquat, or nispero in Mexico, at a Oaxaca market one day. Though native to Asia, it grows widely across Oaxaca, Garcia says, and is just one of the many new foods that has entered her life since she moved to abundant Oaxaca.
Visitors to Oaxaca can sample Garcia’s pickles at her shop, or if it’s closed, purchase them down the street at Boulenc bakery, which uses her jams, mushroom pate, mustard, pickled carrots and jams, and sells jars of her products.
Suculenta products for sale at Boulenc
Paste chatted with Garcia about the food climate in Oaxaca and her hopes for her pickling shop.
Paste: So are pickles traditionally a Oaxacan food? There is escabeche, but are other items typically pickled?
Paulina Garcia: There are some pickles made in Oaxaca — some chayotes, potatoes, carrots, plums. They sell them on the street usually, with a piece of bread. They pour strong vinegar directly on them, so they are a bit strong. Also, pigs’ feet are served on escabeche. I haven’t tried that one, but I’ve seen it a lot in Mexico in general.
Paste: How do you make your escabeche?
PG: The traditional recipe is made with white vinegar, water, salt, spices, and vegetable oil. You can use jalapenos, any kind of vegetables, or a mix of both. Our recipe is made with olive oil instead of vegetable oil to make it more healthy and tasteful.
Garcia’s escabeche
Paste: Since produce grows year-round here, it doesn’t seem like there’s as much of a need to ferment food for the winter, but are Mexicans generally embracing fermented foods to a greater degree, in your opinion?
PG: Anything that it’s “in” in the U.S. eventually makes it way into Mexico, a few years later of course. So I believe that we are a little bit ahead of our time, but it’s definitely becoming a thing. Pickles, healthy food, ferments, sourdough, all the good stuff.
Paste: Do you have an idealistic mission when it comes to your pickles?
PG: Yes, our aim is to replace the supermarkets and the brands that we all usually buy. Our products use only local ingredients, with no artificial flavors or preservatives. Buying something from us supports the producers and farmers directly.
Suculenta’s wide variety of preserved products
Paste: What are your most popular items?
PG: I would say the marmalades and the peanut butter, probably because they’re sweet and easier to pair, and in second place, the dill cucumber pickles.
Paste: You wouldn’t think this pickle recipe from north of the border would be the most popular.
PG: I’d say it’s because we get a lot of foreign people that love pickles. And in our Mexican market, we know that pickle from burgers and hot dogs, so it’s easy to know how to eat it.
Organic whole leaf tea
Paste: What are some new items that you are experimenting with?
PG: Right now, I’m experimenting with lacto-fermented carrots and radishes. The flavor is crazy interesting. We just got some organic honey and beeswax, so I’m doing soap, candles and beeswax lip balm. And pickles, always pickles. We just did some pickled quail eggs and pickled garlic and they’re amazing. Also, I’d like to have a whole line of beauty products, personal hygiene, utilitarian items — everything with the same concept: simple, natural, locally made, homemade.
Whole pickled vegetables, including green beans and carrots
Paste: Any other new fruits or vegetables you’ve discovered lately besides the nispero?
PG: Magic beans! We just got a mix of beans grown and harvested in a small town in the Sierra Sur. When we opened them, they were all different colors and sizes, and they looked like candy.
Garcia’s “magic beans” (courtesy of Suculenta)
Paste: Has the Oaxacan community been supportive, culinarily and culturally?
PG: Yes, I love it here. Seems like everybody is doing something interesting and it’s really easy to connect with people of all ages and genders. I have 65 year old friends and I think that’s amazing. Where I come from, you only make friends with people your own age. I think that limits you in a way.
Paste: What markets and restaurants do you like most in Oaxaca, and why?
PG: I visit all markets — 20 de Noviembre and Sanchez Pascuas more because they’re in my same street. But I go to Abastos and, whenever we can, we visit markets in other towns — you always find something new. For restaurants, I like El DestiladoArchivo MagueyLa Biznaga, and tons of street food of course. And obviously, Boulenc everyday.
Garcia in her shop
Paste: Your shop is so charming. Are you planning on expanding?
PG: Right know it’s only a part store and a part kitchen. The place connects with a huge house so we’re definitely looking to expand.
Suculenta is located at Porfirio Diaz #207-G in Oaxaca’s Centro Historico and is open from 10 a.m. to 6 p.m. daily. The store is closed on Sundays. Call +52 951 351 3648 for daily specials.
Dakota Kim is Paste’s Food Editor. Tweet her @dakotakim1.