Puerto Escondido is a low-key destination in Oaxaca, Mexico

Puerto Escondido is a low-key destination in Oaxaca, Mexico

A few years back I visited Huatulco, 100 km south of Puerto Escondido on the coast of Oaxaca. It was a great vacation and I wanted to go back to Oaxaca, but, as much as I liked Huatulco, I was looking for something more down to earth, even more laid-back, and with more travelers than tourists. So I dug out my backpack and bought a flight to Puerto Escondido via Mexico City. I was aware of its reputation as a surfing center, but the fact that I don’t surf didn’t deter me; I loved the photos I’d seen and I was sure in Puerto Escondido would be beaches that were good for swimming. When I got to Puerto Escondido, it was very similar to what I had imagined; beautiful coast and vegetation, low-key, and geared mainly to travelers and surfers on a budget. In Puerto Escondido are plenty of simple, cheap accommodations (I stayed in a hostel for $5 the first night) but in Puerto Escondido are also luxury hotels and restaurants, and as well as rental apartments, condos and beachfront homes.

The first thing you notice when you arrive in Puerto Escondido is the wide sweep of Zicatela Beach, reputed to be one of the best places for surfing in the world. I went down to the beach, had a cup of coffee, and just watched those guys riding the waves; it can have an almost hypnotic effect. It must be fascinating when there is an international surfing competition going on; I think the main one is in November, at the same time as the local fiestas. The other thing that grabs your attention in Puerto Escondido right away, is the pedestrianized street ‘Adoquín’ that runs parallel to the beach – Adoquin Street Puerto Escondido has a bohemian feel and is full of small hotels, bars, restaurants, and a handicraft market with some lovely stuff at low prices. For swimming Puerto Escondido Zicatela Beach is not a safe option unless you are a very strong swimmer. But Puerto Escondido has plenty of safe beaches nearby, with the best probably being Playa Carazalillo, a few minutes by taxi or about half an hour on foot, plus the steps down to the beach (and up again; it’s good exercise!). Talking of exercise my favorite thing in Puerto Escondido was the coastal path; it takes you up along the cliffs that overlook the sea, around the lighthouse and is a truly beautiful walk, and since Puerto Escondido is a low-key destination you don’t have to share it with dozens of other tourists (yes, you are a tourist, but if you’re one among few).

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Another great experience in Puerto Escondido was a boat trip out to sea to see the marine life. In my case the guide threw himself into the sea, dragged a turtle to the boat and asked me to hold onto it, got back onto the boat to haul it in, and well, you can imagine the rest; it’s a very slippery creature, and I’d rather forget the look on his face as we watched it swim off into the distance. Apart from the places to visit in Puerto Escondido, nearby there are plenty of great little places like Playa Mazunte or Playa Zipolite, where you can really enjoy nature next to the beach. About half an hour to the north of Puerto Escondido there is a fabulous lagoon called Manialtepec, where I highly recommend stopping in a little place called ‘Puesta del Sol’ to have breakfast or lunch and enjoying the marvelous views across the lagoon and taking a dip in the warm, inviting waters. And I almost forgot; please visit Hotel Ines, located directly beach front on the Zicatela Beach, ask for Juergen-Peter. Lorenzo or Ines to get the best discount rates and enjoy the pleasure of eating German food….

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